Zig-Zag Baby Quilt

Hi everyone, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I’m happy to be back on Moda Bake Shop today with a fun and modern baby quilt. This pattern came to mind when a co-worker friend told me that he and his wife were having a baby. They are a fantastic young couple that live in the city and I knew would appreciate a more modern flair to their baby’s new quilt. The best thing about this tutorial is that it’s simple to piece and uses just 3 charm packs for the top!

3 charm packs (Bella solids in Admiral Blue (9900PP 48), Silver (9900PP 183) and Robin’s Egg Blue (9900PP 85)
1 1/2 yard backing (Oink a Doodle Moo chicken wire in Denim)
1/2 yard binding (Bella solid in Admiral Blue – 9900 48)

Divide and match up each charm pack into charm pairs as described below.
21 pairs – Admiral Blue and Silver
21 pairs – Silver and Robin’s Egg Blue
21 pairs – Admiral Blue and Robin’s Egg Blue

You will have a total of 63 sets of charm pairs (2 charm squares together). With each charm pair, place right sides together and mark a line down the center of the square at the 2 1/2″ mark.

Sew 1/4″ on either side of the marked center line.

I did this all while chain piecing and didn’t even snip my threads after the first pass. I just kept them all together and stitched on the opposite side of the marked line.

Once each charm pair has been stitched, cut on your marked line (between the two stitched lines) to separate into two pieced rectangles.

Press each pieced rectangle toward the darkest fabric. Now you will need to trim each pieced rectangle down as shown below to measure 4 1/2″ square.

You should now have a total of 126 – 4 1/2″ pieced squares. Lay them out on point as shown and instructed below with 18 rows of 7 blocks each.

Row 1 – Silver/Admiral Blue pieced squares
Row 2 – Admiral Blue/Robin’s Egg Blue pieced squares
Row 3 – Robin’s Egg Blue/Silver pieced squares

Repeat this order until you get to row 18.

When sewing the rows together, you will do it on the diagonal as shown below and then attach each row to each other matching seams to ensure your zig-zag is in alignment.

Once the quilt top is pieced together, trim off the edges to create a straight line.

Layer with batting, backing and quilt as desired. You will need five 2 1/2″ x WOF strips for binding.

A perfectly sized 36″ x 48″ quilt for the modern baby in your life.

Amanda Castor
{Material Girl Quilts}

Mimi’s Daisy Chains Quilted Throw

Jul2

It is a thrill to be back at the Bake Shop today. Nothing charms my geeky soul like designing a quilt and writing directions for it. Nothing comes close…except for memories of my Nanny. I grew up in a household that had room for the whole family. There was always room for one more. My maternal grandparents were a daily presence and made my life that much richer. I know in some homes, especially in the American South, Nanny would have been called Mimi, so my thought turned to her as I finished this quilt.

Nanny was English – naturalized as an American as a little girl – she never lost that lovely English way of doing things…nor the accent! Gosh I miss her. She would have loved this fabric line. I can imagine her sitting with me on top of this quilt playing board games, or snuggled under it on the front porch reading together. It isn’t a hard stretch at all, even 13 years after she celebrated her last birthday.

Spring time, little girls, grandmothers, it all combines to make a great song…sweet and homey. This quilt is the product of that song. I hope you like it.

1 layer cake

I used Mimi by Chez Moi

1/3 yard for flower centers

I used #16098-15 – yellow dots;

1 1/4 yards solid for background on 9 blocks (dominant background)

I used Bella snow #9900-11

1/2 yard solid for background on 4 blocks (secondary background)

I used 9900-169 ruby ice

1/3 yard for inner border

I used #16098-19 – red dots

2 yards for setting triangles and outer border

I used #16095-11 – flowers on cream and aqua

1/2 yard for binding

I used #16098-22 – aqua dots

6 yards for backing

I used #16094-13 lavender leaves

Cutting Directions:

From Layer Cake

Cut 52, 5″x5″ squares (in sets of 4)

select 13 slices for flower petals that will contrast with your background and your flower center fabric

cut each slice into 4, 5″x 5″ squares for 52 squares

From flower center fabric

cut 13, 5″x 5″ squares

cut 2, 5″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
sub cut first strip into 8, 5″x 5″ squares
sub cut second strip into 5, 5″x 5″ squares plus a remnant

From dominant background fabric

cut 36, 5″x 5″ squares

cut 5, 5″ x wof strips
sub cut 4 strips into 8, 5″x 5″ squares each for 32 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 4, 5″x5″ squares plus a remnant

cut 180, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares

cut 8, 1 3/4″ x wof strips
sub cut 7 strips into 24, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares each for 168 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 12, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″” squares plus a remnant

From secondary background fabric

cut 16, 5″x5″ squares

cut 2, 5″x wof strips
sub cut strips into 8, 5″x5″ squares each for 16 squares

cut 80, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares

cut 4, 1 3/4″x wof strips
sub cut 3 strips into 24,1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares each for72 squares
sub cut remaining strip into 8, 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ squares plus a remnant

From inner border fabric

cut 6, 1 1/2″ x wof strips

From setting and outer border fabric

7, 5″ x wof strips (for outer border)
cut 2, 20 3/4″x 20 3/4″ squares (for setting sides)

cut 1, 20 3/4″ x wof strip
sub cut strip into 2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares
LEAVE AS SQUARES UNTIL NEEDED

cut 2, 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ squares (for setting corners)

LEAVE AS SQUARES UNTIL NEEDED

From binding fabric

cut 7, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Break time – if you have done all of that cutting you need to take a break now. Make yourself a tall cold drink. Go outside and enjoy the sunshine. Stretch your back. Breath. Mimi would want you to.

Sewing Directions:

Make Blocks – This quilt is made from 13 large, nine patch blocks. There are 9 with a light background (dominant background) and 4 with a secondary background. Set on point these create a fun argyle effect. The blocks are made the same way regardless of the color of the background.

Make Snowball Units:

Snowball unit

Gather

52, 5″x 5″ squares (in sets of 4) – flower petals

13, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
180, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – dominant background
80, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – secondary background

Draw a line diagonally across the wrong side of all (260) 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares
Sort – to keep the backgrounds with the right flower petals and centers

Dominant Squares

180, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares – dominant background
9, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
9 sets of 4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower petals

Secondary Squares

80, 1 3/4″x 1 3/4″ squares -secondary background
4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower centers
4 sets of 4, 5″x 5″ squares – flower petals

Place Secondary group to the side.

With right sides together align one 1 3/4″x1 3/4″ square with the corner of one 5″x 5″ square so that the diagonal line cuts across the corner.

Sew along diagonal line, just to the outside of it….closer to the corner than the body of the larger square.
Trim the background fabric

1/4″ from stitch line
to the outside of stitch line – on the side of the tiny outer corner.

Iron little square in half along the sew line.

Repeat process with remaining corners of 5″x5″ square.
Trim block back to 5″x 5″ if needed. This is a pain, but well worth the effort as you blocks will sew together more neatly.
Repeat process 44 times with remaining centers and petals in group for 45 snowball blocks with dominant background corners.
Repeat process with secondary group for 20 snowball blocks with secondary background corners.

Make Daisy Chain Blocks:

Gather

45 snowball blocks with dominant background corners
36, 5″x 5″ squares – dominant background
20 snowball blocks with secondary background corners
16, 5″x 5″ squares – secondary background

Sort – pieces into 13 stacks each containing the following 9 pieces:

4 matching petal snowballs
1 center snowball with matching background corners
4, 5″x 5″ squares – background to match corners of petals and center

Arrange pieces from 1 stack so that they look like the picture below.

Daisy Chain Block

Sew rows

rows 1 & 3

background square, petal, background square
iron seam allowances towards the background square

row 2

petal, center, petal
iron seam allowances towards the center

Sew rows together to make block
Repeat 12 times for 13 blocks.

Assemble Center of Quilt Top:

Mimi’s Daisy Chains is arranged on point. The rows are assembled at a 45 degree angle…well, no you don’t have to sit wonky in your chair…the rows are assembled just like the rows of any quilt, but they are set at an angle in the finished quilt.

This is a good time to drag out your design wall….otherwise know as the floor, your bed, the living room drapes, or shower curtain. You need a big flat surface on which to arrange the blocks to your liking. It shouldn’t be too hard…there are only 13 blocks, and 4 of those are limited to where they can go. Ultimately I don’t think it is going to matter too much where each block goes…but you need to be happy with the arrangement. Take the time now to arrange them and you will be happier later.

Row Assembly

Gather:

13 Daisy Chain blocks
10 3/8″ x 10 3/8″ square border fabric (for setting corners)
2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares border fabric (for setting edges)

Stabilize setting triangles – These pieces are going to be the edges of your quilt before you attache the inner border. Because of their size and the fact that they are cut on the bias they will be very stretchy. Take a moment now to stabilize them. You will be glad you did.

For setting sides:

Gather 2, 20 3/4″ x 20 3/4″ squares
Iron and starch them liberally.
Draw 2 diagonal lines on the wrong side of each.

Using a single layer of fabric sew next to, about 3/16″ from each side of the lines

It will look like a big double X sewn onto a single layer of fabric.

Cut on lines

For setting corners:

Gather 2, 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ squares
Iron and starch them liberally
Draw 1 diagonal line on the wrong side of each.
Using a single layer of fabric sew next to, about 3/16″ from each side of the lines

Cut on lines.

Assemble rows

When working with setting triangles

Align the right angled corner with the corner of your daisy chain block.

When working with corner triangles

Find the center of the hypotenuse
Find the center of the block to which you are attaching the triangle
Pin centers, right sides together.
Pin from center out to the edges
There should be a tiny 1/4″ bunny ear sticking over the edge.

Iron seam allowance towards the dominant background
Sew rows together to make top.

Pin rows together starting with center squares.
Pin seams for large blocks first then pin seams within the blocks
There should be a bunny ear sticking over the edge where the setting triangles meet the ends of your rows.

Add final two setting triangles to complete square.

Add Borders:

Border Assembly

Gather

Center of quilt top
6, 1 1/2″ x wof strips – inner border fabric
7, 5″ x wof strips – outer border fabric

Inner border

Sew 2 wof strips together along a 1 1/2″ side
Iron seam allowance open
Attach to side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Sew remnant to 1 wof strip along a 1 1/2″ side
Iron seam allowance o pen
Attach to parallel side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Repeat process with remaining sides of quilt.

Outer border

Sew 2 wof strips together along a 5″ side
Iron seam allowance open
Attach to side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Sew Iron seam allowance o pen
Attach to parallel side of quilt
Iron seam allowance towards border
Trim excess
Repeat process with remaining sides of quilt.

Finishing – Layer and quilt as desired

Don’t forget to add a label!

4,900 square inches (70’x70′) of day dreaming loveliness; a magic carpet of meadow flowers; a safe place on a rainy summer day; sweet memories of Mimi.

Please share a photo of your finished quilt with my group, Tops to Treasures on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Christmas in July

Jul1

If you’re a fabric shopper like me (and you must be, if you’re following the Moda Bake Shop!), by now you’ve noticed all of the holiday fabrics popping up in your favorite quilt shops. How nice of them to make Christmas fabric in July so that we quilters and sewers actually have a chance to get our projects sewn up by December.

On the Moda Bake Shop this month, we are celebrating Christmas in July. We will have regular projects, too, but you will see a sprinkling of holiday sewing delights in between.

Live long and sew on,

Craftsy Guest Pinner

Jun27

Are you on Pinterest? Join Moda Fabrics on Craftsy’s board while we pin some Moda-vations to get you back in your sewing room!

Avalon Scrappy Summer Quilt

Jun24

Hi. My name is Trish and I blog over at notes of sincerity. I am so happy to be back at the Moda Bake Shop sharing another tutorial. Thank you so much for your kind comments left on my previous tutorials.

5 Avalon charm packs

1 1/9 yard Avalon Daisy Natural (blocks)

1/2 yard Avalon Daisy Natural (binding)

4 yards Avalon Cherry Candy for backing

*optional : starch

Our quilt today will consist of two blocks. A four patch block and a diamond block made from half square triangles.

Open and divide charm packs into two piles. You will need 128 squares for the 32 four patch blocks and 62 for the 31 diamond blocks.

Iron and cut 8 – 5″ by width of fabric strips. From these strips cut 8 – 5″ squares. You will need 62 (having two left over).

For the four patch blocks, pair and sew two charm squares together. Press with hot dry iron to set seam then press to one side = 64 pairs. Sew those pairs into 32 four patch blocks, being sure to “lock” center seams.

Press with hot dry iron to set seam, then (using a little starch – optional) press to one side. Here is an example of the back to one of the blocks.

Square to 8 1/2“.

Repeat until you have 32 blocks.

For the diamond blocks you will draw a diagonal line on one side of the neutral square. Place flat, right sides together, and pin to patterned fabric.

Sew a 1/4″ seam on either side of the line. Press with hot dry iron to set seam, carefully cut along drawn line.

Iron seams open (my personal preference).

Square to 4 1/2″.

Form a square with four half square triangles in a diamond shape pattern. Sew top two and bottom two together. Press to set seam with hot dry iron, then press to one side.

Sew top two blocks to the bottom two blocks. Press to set seam (with what??) a hot dry iron (wink), then press to one side. Square to 8 1/2″. Repeat until you have 32 blocks.
**little note : pressing both of your blocks to one side will allow those blocks to “lock” together while sewing into rows, then later when sewing rows together to form the quilt**

Lay your blocks out as you would have them – into rows. Sew your rows together, locking seams as you go. To insure that all my rows locked as desired, I made sure to place all diamond block seams facing up and all four patch block seams facing down before sewing.

Now that all your blocks are sewn into rows, it is time to press your rows so that they may be sewn to become your quilt top. To reduce bulk and allow for the seams to lay flat after pressed, I pressed away from the diamond blocks.

Pin each row together and sew rows together, one at a time. I like to number each of my rows with a tiny sticky tab, that way they are sewn together in the pattern I intended, with no guess work.

When rows are all sewn together, you will quilt as desired, bind using 2.5″ strips, and enjoy.

Beautifully long arm quilted by Kathy Olkowski.

a fun and happy Avalon scrappy summer throw that measures 56.5″ x 72″

Trish Poolson

{notes of sincerity}

Domestic Gifts Throw Quilt

Jun22

Hi again, it’s Molly Culley with another quick and easy throw quilt. When I saw the Domestic Bliss line, it was love at first sight. Pinks, aquas, plums…what’s not to like? Another reason I was smitten with this line is how it looks so vintage, yet modern. The quilt design is clean and simple, and really lets the fabrics shine, with a hint of texture and embellishment with the ruffled solids.

One Layer Cake
One Jelly Roll
4 yards backing fabric

1. Choose 36 layer cake squares for the front of your quilt, and set aside the remaining 6 for the pieced back. Lay them out in a pleasing arrangement.

2. Unroll your jelly roll and set aside 6 strips for your binding. Next, we will need 5 strips for the ruffled/pleated solids, so go ahead and unroll those. Take the first one, and fold it in half lengthwise so the selvedges are touching. Cut the strip on the fold so you have 2- 2.5″x21″ pieces. Now, cut each strip in half width-wise so you now have 4- 1.25″ by 21″ strips. Do the same to the remaining 4 jelly roll strips. You will need 18 ruffle strips that measure 1.25″ by 21″.

3. Using a coordinating thread color, stitch a 1/4″ seam on either side of each solid strip. This will slow any fraying during daily use and laundry days.

4. Your next step is to choose the squares you want your ruffles on. I chose three alternating squares from each row, and also changed the direction of the ruffles for each row.

5. Using the 18 solid strips, either ruffle or pleat them using your favorite method. I chose to fold the strip as I sewed it onto the layer cake square to make pleats. The photo above shows an example of my pleating method. I just used my fingers to tuck the fabric under the presser foot, but you could also use a ruffler foot or a gathering stitch to make traditional ruffles. I also didn’t put my ruffle exactly in the middle of the square each time…I didn’t want each block to be the same.

6. Once the ruffles/pleats are sewn onto your layer cake squares, sew over the 1/4″ stitch lines on the edges of the solids so they lay nicer on your quilt once it’s washed. I learned this the hard way…it’s much easier to do this with the individual squares, rather than wrestling the whole quilt into the machine again.

7. Join your squares into rows, then sew the rows together into a 6×6 block layout.

8. For your pieced back, sew together the 6 layer cake squares set aside earlier, and piece them into your backing fabric.

9. Baste, quilt and bind. I quilted mine in an all-over meander with a variegated thread. Use the 6 solid jelly roll strips you set aside earlier to make your binding. Enjoy your gorgeous new quilt!

A throw quilt that measures 57″ square.

I hope you enjoyed my project! If you’d like to see what I’m sewing up lately, stop by my Instagram feed (link below).

Molly Culley
{instagram.com/mollyculley/}

Ah-maz-ing Quilt

Jun20

Amazing isn’t! Like the Cheshire Cat from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland this quilt contains its own amusement for anyone who appreciates Modern art, or for anyone who simply likes puzzles. Now my question for all of you out there is, do you see it, and what is it that you see in this 85″ x 85″ Ah-maz-ing quilt?

For the Quilt Top

(1) Bella Solid White Jelly Roll 9900 98
(1) Bella Solid Black Jelly Roll 9900 99
(1) Yard of Bella Solid White or another Bella Solid White Jelly Roll. 9900 98
(3) Yards of Bella Solid Black 9900 98
(2.5) Yards of 108″ Dottie Quilt Backing #11072 14

Read through the directions first before starting this project!

All seam allowances are 1/4 of an inch unless stated other wise.

Open both jelly rolls to start piecing the middle.
It is best to be warned that you will run out of the white jelly roll strips before completing this quilt top. It is optional to purchase another Bella Solid white jelly roll or to purchase one yard of the Bella Solid white.

All cutting instructions for this quilt top was completed through improvisation. Please keep in mind that the finished center of this quilt will come out to 79.5″ x 79.5″. Yes, there will be some squaring off the ends. If some of the ends are longer then most its okay, they will be squared off anyway!

A couple of tips:

Since this quilt top is sewn by strips it is best to start sewing one end and then start on the opposite end to prevent a bowing effect that happens if sewn from one end only.

Grab a few safety pins. Use one safety pin at the very top center (the very first strip) of your quilt top to remind yourself of where you started. Use another safety pin to help mark your place while sewing the strips together to remind yourself of what end you need to start sewing the next strip from.

Match up all ends from left to right. The right ends will be oddly strewn about while the left ends match up evenly.

I highly recommend to pin the strips before sewing them together.

Since the quilt top center will require to be squared off it best to sew 10 strip sections at a time and leave a safety pin in the places as previously suggested.

Do not throw out any scrap pieces until the very end! Many of the small odd jelly roll strips of fabric were used while going along in this quilt top to conserve on fabric waste.

Cutting and Piecing

This is a cut and piece as you go type of quilt. All measurements are given in the row order from number one to number thirty nine. See photo of the quilt as a reference. To fit a twin size bed keep adding on more rows and try your hand at improv piecing if you like. Just remember it is a maze!

The cutting measurements are coded by color: W = White B = Black
All measurements are done in inches

W-36″ B-22.5″ W-24.5″
B-18.5″ W-22.5″ B-42″
W-11.5″ B-20″ W-40″ B-11.5″
B-33″ W-18″ B-32″
W-40″ B-11.5″ W-31.5″
W-6.5″ B-10″ W-36″ B-10″ W-11″ B-10″
B-25″ W-13″ B-30″ W-15″
B-23″ W-24″ B-36″
W-42″ W-41″
B-12″ B-42″ W-10″ B-19″
W-11.5″ B-6″ W-18.5″ B-7″ W-40
W-20.5″ B-42″ W-20.5″
W-29.5″ B-10.5″ W-43″
W-5.5″ B-21.5″ W-25″ B-31″
B-36″ W-36″ B-11″
W-6.5″ B-9.5″ W-42″ W-25″
B-40″ W-7″ B-36″
W-6″ B-5.5″ W-17.5″ B-6″ W-18″ B-31″
W-42″ W-41″
W-20.5″ B-42″ W-20.5
W-7″ B-5″ W-42″ W-29″
B-17″ W-10″ B-12″ W-19″ B-9″ W-17″
W-17″ B-24″ W-16″ B-26″
B-41″ W-10″ B-18″ W-14″
B-9″ W-11″ B-10″ W-36″ B-17″
W-42″ B-8″ W-33″
W-42″ B-41″
W-30″ B-42″ W-11″
W-20″ B-42″ W-21″
B-5″ W-21″ B-42″ W-13″
W-42″ W-41″
B-9″ W-30″ B-31″ W-13″
B-15″ W-42″ B-26″
B-30″ W-25″ B-12″ W-16″
W-5″ B-12″ W-27″ B-30″ W-9″
B-22″ W-26″ B-20″ W-15″
W-18″ B-5″ W-36″ B-24″
W-7″ B-28″ W-42″ W-6″
W-42″ W-9″ B-18″ W-14″

If you did sew these strips into sections, square off each section to 79.5″ wide. Once all the sections are square piece them together.

Next take the Bella Solid Black and cut (2) 3 .5″ x LOF (length of fabric) for the border.
Add the borders to all sides.

Take the rest of the remaining Bella Solid black to make your binding.

85″ x 85″ quilt

Thank you for stopping by today and checking out this Ah-maz-ing improv quilt! Also be sure to stop by my blog to check out the free companion quilt pattern to Ah-maz-ing called Illusion.

Jennifer Overstreet
{www.ghquilting.com}
{jennifer@ghquilting.com}

500,000 Pillowcases

Jun19

With your help, American Patchwork & Quilting magazine has reached the halfway point of the One Million Pillowcase Challenge! More than 500,000 pillowcases have been created and donated to local charities since the challenge’s inception in 2010.

“We are halfway to our goal and couldn’t be more thrilled!” says Jennifer Keltner, executive
editor of American Patchwork & Quilting. “Thanks a half million to everyone that has helped us
reach this milestone. Because of the generosity of quilters and sewers around the nation, 500,000
people in need have received a pillowcase to give them hope, encouragement, or comfort. But we
still have more work to do. We’re not stopping until we reach our goal of one million
pillowcases!”

To find out how you can help, visit AllPeopleQuilt.com/millionpillowcases.

Artist On-the-Go Tote

Jun18

Emily here today from Em’s Scrapbag for a perfect staycation project!

4 fat quarters (I used Simply Style by V and Co.)
4 grommets
Grommet tool

From on fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for cover
From another fat quarter cut a 15 1/2″ x 20″ rectangle for lining
From third fat quarter cut 2- 12 1/2″ x 9″ for pockets
From fourth fat quarter cut 2- 3 1/2″ x 12″ rectangles for crayon holders and 2- 3″ x 15″ strips for handles

On each of the pockets fold the top edge down 1/4″ twice press and stitch in place.

On each of the crayon holders fold the short ends in 1/4″ and press.

Fold down the top edge of each of your crayon holders down twice making sure that the ends stay pressed in.

Run a gathering stitch along the top and bottom of your crayon holders.

Center an 8″ ruler 2″ from the bottom of one of your pockets. Draw an 8″ line along the top of your ruler.

Gather the unfinished edge of your crayon holder so that it fits in the 8″ marked space. Placing right sides together pin along the line you drew and stitch in place.

Use your 8″ ruler to make marks about 2 1/4″ up from where you sewed the crayon holder on. Bring up the crayon holder up. Gather the finished side so it fits between the marks you made and stitch the sides in place.

Divide your crayon holder into 12 equal spaces. Just over 5/8″ and mark.

Sew on each of these marks through the crayon holder. Back stitching to reinforce.

Measure 2″ from the top of your first crayon holder. Mark your 8″ line and repeat process with second crayon holder.

On your 15 1/2″ x 20″ lining make a 12 1/2″” long line 9″ from the left side. Place the pocket with the crayon holders right side together along the line you drew so that the 9″ is not covered by the pocket and sew 1/4″ seam. Flip and press so that the edges of your pocket line up with the edge of your lining.

Measure 9″ from the right side and repeat process with the remaining pocket.

Place the cover over your lining piece right sides together, pin. Starting at the bottom sew around the edge leaving an opening to turn right side out.

Press to make crisp edge around where you have sewn and to finish edge on opening.

Top stitch in place.

Place a ruler 1/2″ down from top edge. Measure 3 1/4″ and 6 1/4″ from side edge place grommets here. Following the directions with your grommet tool apply grommets. Repeat on other side.

Fold the short ends of each handle in 1/4″.

Fold in half along the long side.

Open up and fold bottom edge into the center fold. Press

Fold the top edge into the center fold. Press.

insert photo

Fold in half and top stitch in place.

Place handles through grommets so ends show on cover.

Tie a knot in each end.

Place a 24 pack of crayons in the crayon holders and a sketch pad in the other pocket. Place the cardboard from a old sketch pad in the pocket behind the crayons to give it stability.

One artist on-the-go tote

Emily Bailey

{www.emsscrapbag.blogspot.com}

Bucket of Fish {Toss Game}

Jun16

Hello everyone! Totally excited to be hanging out with you today. I have been so lucky to work with some fantastic fabric for this project. I don’t dip my toe into batiks often, but from now on, I would be happy to pick up a new line or two. The colors and designs are so wonderful! No cut square is the same, and I love that. For some it can throw you off because you’re like what– why is this block yellow when it started off red? But for me, I love the little switches it makes and keeps you on your toes when you are designing.

For this project I used fabric from the Breezy Batiks Collection. I love this line and have a giveaway going on the blog to win 10 fat quarters from the same line!- ‘swim’ on over and sign up to win.

Printed Fish Template (see Printer Friendly Version at the end of this post)

Fish

12″ X 12″ square of fabric for each fish —you can mix and match the front and back if you’d like and use smaller pieces. If this is for a game toss, then you might want to make sure 3-4 of them are matching on one side so you can sort them out for each player easily.

Bucket

1 > 7″ X 30″ Blue for the ocean waves

2 > 7″ X 30″ Green for background and lining of basket

1 > 7″ X 30″ Fusible Fleece for stiffness

2 > 8″ X 8″ Bottom lining and outside

1 > 8″ X 8″ Fusible Fleece for stiffness

FISH

1) Print out template of fish and cut out

2) Lay fabric right sides facing out, pin template

3) Cut out using pinking shears

4) Sew all the way around the fish, leaving an opening for stuffing

5) Fill tail with poly beads, crushed walnut shells, or sand- something to give it some weight

6) Stuff firmly the rest of the fish body- the weighted fill will shift, that’s ok, just try to keep it inside the body and not leak out when you are stuffing the rest

7) Pin closed and sew the opening closed

Repeat with additional fish as needed

HANDLES~

Cut: 2 > 2 1/2″ X 14″ handles

1) Fold handles right sides together and sew

2) Turn right sides out, iron. Set aside for later

BASKET~

Sewing Instructions:

1) Place the fusible fleece on the wrong side of the outside fabric- right side facing out. Fuse it

2) Cut the blue fabric wavy with your rotary cutter. You can’t mess this up. Just have fun 🙂

3) Pin the blue fabric right sides facing out on top of the green background, lining up the bottom straight edge

4) Zig-zag along the raw edge wave of the blue wave to secure

5) Sew additional straight lines 1/4- 1/2″ from the last line sewn. Repeat 3-4 times- you will be sewing through the wave, the background and the fusible fleece

6) Fold in half and sew the ends together, making a tube

7) Fuse the fusible fleece to the bottom outside fabric

8) Pin right sides together the bucket tube to the bottom square. It will be tricky moving around those corners, but you can make it work

*When you get to the corner- keep the needle in the down position 1/4″ from the edge. Lift the pressure foot and pivot the fabric to the next side. Line up the edges and continue to sew. Repeat at each corner

9) Sew all the way around the square

LINING~

1) Fold in half and sew the ends together- leaving a 3″ opening for turning later

2) Repeat steps 7-8 with the lining

3) Pin the handles to the ouside fabric- the end of the handles should be lined up with the top edge of the bucket

4) Stuff the bucket lining -right sides facing – to the outside bucket. Pin- making sure the bottom squares are lining up

5) Sew along the top edge of the bucket. Make sure the handles don’t shift

6) Turn right sides out through the hole in the lining

7) Stuff the lining inside the bucket and close the opening

8) Iron the top edge of the bucket. Sew 1/4″ from the edge along the top

9) Fold the handles in half length wise and sew along the edge- starting and stopping 2″ from the top edge of the bucket

10) Fill bucket with fish and have some fun!