Down On The Farm Quilt

Here in Canada we LOVE our red and white and especially love using this colour combo “Down on the Farm.”  When I saw these beautiful reds, tans and cream tones I just knew what type of design to focus on – a good ole’ barn raising and images from my Past, Present, and Future.  I hope everyone has as much fun with this quilt as I did . . . remember to customize it however you like to make it a “one-of-a-kind” quilt that creates memories for you.

1 – “Midwinter Reds” layer cake by Minick and Simpson
First and Third borders: 3/4 yard
Second border: 1/3 yard
Inserted Flap (Flange) border: 1/4 yard (optional)
1/2 yard background fabric for paper-pieced blocks
1/2 yard for centre squares and binding fabric
1 1/2 yards of backing fabric
46” x 54” batting

Scraps of embroidery thread to stitch your hometown name on the elevator

                        

PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT.

The blocks shown above are for your reference during the construction process.  If you are using a planned colour placement for your blocks you could cut your strips and label them as to the placement number as shown in the block above on the right.  If you are making your block scrappy, just be sure to follow the light side for your lights and the dark side for your darks.

I have designed the pattern so that the upper farm scene can be adjusted to fit your measurements, so please do not stress if your blocks are a slightly different size!

Now it’s time to open up that lovely layer cake and make a few decisions.

Do a quick flip through all those gorgeous prints and pull out any of the duplicate ones and set them aside.

Now have a look at your buildings, fence and tree blocks and decide what prints you want to use where.  Sometimes it doesn’t matter for the smaller pieces like the windows, doors and the roof on the house – scraps left over from making the log cabin blocks will work fine for some of those small pieces.  The elevator, barn, house, and tree use a bit bigger pieces and you want to make sure that you don’t run out of the print that you want to use for those blocks.  So pick out your favourites for these and set them aside . . . they may already be some of the duplicate ones that you’ve set aside and that is just fine. 

Don’t worry about how many 10” x 10” squares you use – there is enough fabric in your layer cake to cut extra strips if needed.

How to cut Log Cabin Strips:

Make a stack of light, medium and dark 10” x 10“ prints – having approximately 4-6 prints in each stack (or whatever number you are comfortable cutting through at one time).

Line up the left hand edges of your stack as close to perfect as possible.  Measure 1 5/8” from the left raw edge and make your first cut.

Flip the strip around and trim off the raw edge to make a perfect 1 1/2” strip. 

Continue cutting 1 1/2“ strips. From the light strips cut 4 – 1 1/2” strips from each print and from the dark prints, cut 5 – 1 1/2” strips – all your strips will be 10” long – do not cut into shorter segments at this stage. .  If you prefer cut one strip less of each of the prints and then just go back later in the construction process and cut a few of the prints that you feel you want to have a bit more of.

Using the yardage that you have chosen for your center squares, cut 1 – 1 1/2” x 42” strip and sub-cut into 16 – 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” squares.

Before you start sewing – check your seam allowance.  A perfect 1/4” is preferred, but in all cases ensure that whatever seam allowance you start with you continue through the entire quilt construction process.  To achieve the 7” finished square blocks for this project, I needed to move my needle setting over to the right by a couple of nudges.  Everyone’s machine may sew just a bit different and everyone’s presser foot might be a bit different, so be prepared to maybe have a 7” x 7” finished block, and maybe not.

How to Sew Log Cabin Blocks:

Step One:
Place a center square and  a light strip right sides together and join with a 1/4” seam, using the machine’s presser foot as a guide.  Now line up your ruler against the straight edge of Print #1, and using your rotary cutter trim away the excess of Print #2 (refer to the block legend on Page 1 for reference).  Open squares and press seam allowance away from the center square.

NOTE:  Remember that the last strip you added is always on top under the needle.  Sew with the wrong side of the finished work facing you, the new strip will always be underneath so that you can see the seam allowances and guide them away from the center of the block as you stitch.
Step Two:
Lay this unit on top of another light strip – right sides together.  Stitch this seam as shown in the photo.  Ensure that you push the seam allowance up as you sew over it.  Trim off piece #3 evenly with piece #1.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

Step Three:
Turn the unit so that piece #3 is at the top and lay this section over a dark strip (#4).  Align the raw edges and stitch, ensuring that the previous seam allowance is pushed upwards.  Trim unit evenly with piece #1 and #2.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

Step Four:
Now lay this partial block on top of another dark strip (#5).  Stitch and trim strip #5 even with the edge of unit #2 and #3.  Open up and press.

Continue adding and trimming strips in this manner, always turning the block counter-clockwise as you add strips, until you have a block 7 1/2” x 7 1/2” square that looks like the block above.  Assembly line piecing works very well with this type of block if a planned colour placement is used.  As in the samples shown here, the prints are randomly placed which makes it a bit more difficult to use the assembly line method – a modified version does work, but not quite as efficiently.

Give all of your blocks a final pressing and get them stacked and ready to lay out into a quilt.  Refer to the photo at the beginning of the blog post or play around with different layouts to find one that appeals to you.

Cutting Strips for Paper Piecing
There are many methods for paper piecing – please feel free to use whatever method works best for you and that you are comfortable with.

Leftovers from the Log Cabin Blocks (1 1/2”) can be used for:  House Roof; House Door; Chimney; Barn Windows; Fence Posts; and Tree Trunk.

Cut wider strips from remaining 10”x10“ fabrics:
House Window: 2” strip
Barn Door: 2 1/2” strip
Barn Roof: 2” strip
Barn: 1 1/2” and 2” strips
Lean-to: 3” strip
Lean-to Roof: 1”
Elevator – Light Color: 3 3/4” strip
Elevator – Dark Color: 2” strip

Background Strips (all 42“ long) – Cut a variety and then use as needed.  I cut a 5”, 2” and 1” strip – the 5” works best for the backgrounds on the Lean-to, the Fence block and for the angled pieces in the Tree block.  The 1” strips work best for the Fence block and the sides of the House.  If you want a different size for a certain area, just cut it from the 5” strip as needed.

The tree has a lot of different angles going on and sometimes those can be quite a challenge. The trick is to always use a wide enough strip to allow for coverage of the area that you are wanting to cover.  The other important thing to remember is to always do a bit of a mock-sewing, by either using a couple of pins or by holding the piece of fabric in place along the seam line and flipping it over to make sure that the shape you are wanting to cover is covered.  Sometimes it doesn’t seem to matter how carefully you plan, something still doesn’t work out in the end.  Always keep your seam ripper handy and take comfort in knowing that you’re not the first who has needed to re-work an angle!

The tree block is the “adjusting block” that I talked about at the beginning.  Once the tree is paper pieced you can add the top background strip (1 1/2”).  Then add 2 1/2” strips of background fabric to each side.  These 2 1/2” strips are wider than you need and will allow you to custom fit your entire barn scene to fit your finished log cabin bottom unit.  Measure your log cabin unit, including seam allowance – mark that number down.  Sew as many of your farm scene blocks together as you can . . . remember they don’t need to be in the order that I have sewn them in – create your own barn scene.  Measure your pieced blocks including only the one set of seam allowances.  Calculate the measurement you need to fill the available space and add 1/2” inch to that measurement.  Trim your tree block to that measurement and sew it into the sequence you have chosen.  Now you can sew the farm scene unit to the log cabin unit to complete your quilt center.
 Adding the First Border
1.  Measure through the middle row of blocks on the quilt top.
2.  Cut 2 – 1 1/2” x 42“ strips of this measurement from your first border print.
3.  Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the top border strip by folding them in half. Mark the halfway point with a pin or fabric marker. With right sides together, pin the center of the border to the center of the top. Pin the ends of the border strip to the ends of the quilt top and then pin every two or three inches, easing in any fullness.
4.  Using ¼ inch seam, stitch the top borders in place, being careful to ease in any fullness. As you are sewing your borders into place, be careful to keep the seams on your blocks laying in the direction they were pressed in.  Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the bottom border.
5.  Press the seams.
6.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom across the center, including the borders just sewn on.  Repeat steps 3 to 5.
Note:  For longer borders:
If your measurement is longer than one length of the 42” strip, the borders will need to be pieced – just straight seam border strips together to make a longer length and then cut to the length needed.

Adding the Second Border:
Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the 2 1/2” second border.

Preparing and Applying the Flap (Flange) Border – (Optional)
1.  Using 5  1¼” inner border strips, straight seam them together end-to-end to create one long strip.
2. Press the entire strip in half, wrong sides together.
3.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom and side to side across the center, including the borders just sewn on and cut four lengths of the flap border strip to those measurements.
4.  Using a 1/8” seam allowance, and with the right side of the quilt facing you, start stitching the strip to the first border, matching centers and ends as per step 3 above.
5.  Repeat for the other side and top and bottom of the quilt.

Adding the Third Border:
Repeat steps 1 to 6 for adding the first border using the 3 1/2“ third border print strips.

Embroider the name of your hometown on the front of the elevator and any other special touches that you want to make to your quilt.  The quilt top is now complete and ready for one final pressing before being layered and basted for quilting.  This quilt was quilted by Terry Whitman in Estevan, Saskatchewan and she made swirly wind stitching around the buildings and diagonal quilting across the body of the quilt.  The border has been quilted with a diamond/zig zag pattern.  Terry added sunflowers and other flowers on top of the barn and cabin, as well as a wheat sheaf on the elevator.

Binding:  Measure the top, bottom and sides of your quilt and divide this number by 42” (width of fabric) and using the number you get, round up to the nearest whole number.  This is the number of 2 1/4” strips you need to cut for binding strips.  Using a diagonal seam, stitch these strips into a long continuous unit.  Press strip in half with wrong sides together.  Stitch to the right side of the quilt aligning raw edges as you go and mitering corners as you come to them.  Turn edge over to the back side of the quilt and hand stitch in place.  Make a log cabin label and attach with pride!

I hope you enjoyed your time “Down on the Farm” with me.

Finished Quilt: 40″ x 48″

Marlene Biles
{www.sipiweskequilts.blogspot.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Piecing Batting

Another post in celebration of National Sewing Month! 

I LOVE using my fabric scraps… It’s my favorite fabric to sew with… And I equally LOVE using up my batting scraps as well.  You know that feeling when you gather up all the left overs and little bits and pieces in the fridge and make a really good dinner?  Yeah…. such a great feeling!  Which is the same feeling I get when I use up my batting left overs! 

I’m going to show you the method I use when piecing larger batting leftovers. There are many ways to piece batting, and perhaps you’ll want to experiment a little to decide which method you prefer… 

I take two pieces of batting over to my ironing board, put a piece of fabric on top of them and give em a good press to get all the wrinkles and folds out… Then over to the cutting mat, where I trim them up to the same size… {you don’t have to do this, it’s just the way I like to} 

Overlap the two pieces about 2-3 inches

Using your rotary cutter, cut a nice wavy line from bottom to top making sure you’re catching both pieces of batting… Discard the little strips left over from the cut… 

Look at that smooth crisp wavy line… exactly what we want… 

There are a few different ways to “fuse” the two pieces together:

  

1… Lightweight fusible Interfacing

2… Fusible Batting Tape

3… Either Hand or Machine Basting with a large zig zag or cross stitch  

I prefer to use up my scraps of fusible interfacing.  I think it works perfectly!

Lay the two pieces of batting on top of your ironing board, matching up the curved cut… The pieces should butt up together, but not overlap.

Then follow these steps: 

1.  Cut a strip of fusible interfacing that will cover the entire curved cut

2.  Place sticky side down onto the batting

3.  Place a piece of fabric over the top and press with a hot iron. 

And that’s it!  Your batting is fused together and all ready to go!   I personally think the curved cut is less likely to show up on the finished quilt, than a straight one.

And what do I do with my smaller batting left overs?  

I pre-cut them into a couple different sizes… This size {6″x 9″} is perfect for Mug Rugs… 

I made this set of mug rugs using the quilt as you go technique. 

And this size {5″x5″} is perfect for coasters! 

These pre-cut pieces make great foundations for Quilt As You Go projects! Oh so fun! 

With these little tips you’ll be using your batting leftovers in no time!  And I’m sure you’ll come up with some great projects to use them with too!  I also have a list of 15 different uses for batting leftovers on my Blog...  You might be surprised at some of them…. 

Happy Sewing !!! ooxx

jodi from Pleasant Home! 

Peanut Butter and Kelli Quilt

Hey, it’s Kelli here from Jo’s Country Junction.  My youngest sister Kalissa and I have always been close.  When she was little, her nickname was Peanut as compared to all of us other kids, she was a peanut. Her nickname Peanut eventually evolved into Peanut Butter.  Because I was (and still am) her favorite sibling, we used to change the words of our favorite Barney song, Peanut Butter and Jelly, to Peanut Butter and Kelli.  After we completed this quilt, Kalissa expressed her love of it.  Because we used the Moda fabric line PB & J, we decided to name the quilt Peanut Butter and Kelli.

Stop over to our blog for a chance to win a jelly roll after you’re done reading the tutorial.
Follow along and you can make your own.
You’ll need a fat quarter bundle and some yardage.

1 fat quarter bundle PB & J

4 yards neutral print (We used ½ yard of each of the 8 neutral prints)

1 yard neutral (border)

1 yard dark print (binding)

2.5 yards dark solid (borders, block outline)

8 yards for backing

From each of 32 colored fat quarters, cut the following:

            -1- 3.75” x 21” strip (stars)

            -2- 3” x 21” strips (sashing)

            -2- 1.75” x 21” strips (sashing, pieced border)

From each of 8 lighter fat quarters, cut the following:

            -3- 3.75” strips (stars)

From neutral border cut 10- 3”strips

From binding fabric, cut 10- 2.5” strips

From dark solid, cut the following:

            -27- 1.5” strips (star outline)

            -6- 1.75” strips (pieced border)

            -10- 3” strips (border)

Making Star Blocks:

From 32- 3.75”  colored strips, cut 1- 5” rectangle and 2- 3.75” squares.  A total of 32- 5” rectangles and 64- 3.75” squares.

From 24- 3.75” lighter strips, cut 8 (1 of each print) into 4- 5” segments from each to yield a total on 24- 5” segments.  Using the remaining 16- 3.75” neutral strips, cut a total of 64- 3.75” squares.

1.  Pair 1 colored 5” segment with 1 neutral 5” segment.  With right sides together, use an easy angle ruler to cut 2 half square triangles.  Sew together using a ¼ inch seam.  Press to the colored print. Continue with all of hte 5″ segments.  It you haven’t used an Easy Angle ruler before, here’s a great tutorial Bonnie Hunter did showing you how.

2.  Assemble star by first sewing the dark square together into a four patch.

-Then sew the half square triangles together as shown.

-Sew two to the side of the four patch.

-Sew a light colored square to each end of the remaining start points.

-Then sew the final strip to the outside.

Outlining the Star:

3.  Using 11 of the 1.5” dark solid strips, cut a total of 32- 1.5” x 13.5” strips (3 from each strip).  Sew to opposite sides of each star block.  Press to the dark “frame.”

 

4.  Using the remaining 16 strips, cut 32- 1.5” x 15.5” rectangles.  Sew to opposite sides of the star.  Press to the dark “frame.”

 

Making the Sashing Blocks:

5.  From each neutral ½ yard cut, cut a total of 3- 3” strips.  Cut each in half (approximate) to yield a total of 24- 3” x approximately 21” strips.

6.  With right sides together, pair 1 colored 3” x 21” strip with 1 neutral 3” x 21” strip. 

7.  Using your easy angle ruler, cut a total of 10 half square triangles from each set.  Sew using a 1/4 “ seam.  Press to the colored half.  Make a total of 448 half square triangles.

 

8.  Using the colored 1.75” strips, cut a total of 576- 1.75” squares (448 for sashing blocks, 128 for pieced border).

9.  With right sides together, place a colored 1.75” square in the neutral half of the half square triangle.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim excess fabric and press to the colored square.  Repeat for each of the 448 sashing blocks.

 

10.  Sew the newly created units together as shown creating 16 blocks.

 

11.  Sew the blocks together in a 4 x 4 setting as shown.

 

Making the Pieced Borders:

12.  Subcut the 6- 1.75” strips into 64- 1.75” x 3” rectangles.

13.  Following the diagram below, using the remaining 128- 1.75” squares, place a colored square on one end of the dark rectangle with right sides together.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the colored square.  Trim excess and press to the colored square.  

14.  Repeat on opposite end.  Continue making 64 pieced border blocks.

 

15.  Using the remaining 1.75” colored strips and the remaining 1.75” dark strip, create 4- 1.75” half square triangles using your easy angle ruler.  Press to the dark.

16.  Sew 16 of the newly created border pieces together.  Make four sets of these border units.  Add a half square triangle to both ends of two of the strips.

17.  Add newly created border as shown.

 

18.  Next add the neutral, then dark borders.

 

19.  Quilt and bind using 2.5” binding strips.

Come on over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see how mom quilted our version.

Finished Quilt Size—93” x 93”
 

Jo Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Quilt Borders

Today our Bake Shop Basics series continues with Chef Anjeanette sharing the proper way to make and attach quilt borders.

Hi Moda Bake Shop! It is Anjeanette from by Anjeanette. I’m going to share one of my favorite parts of making a quilt today.

Do you ever finish your quilt and wonder why your sides are wavy and won’t lay flat? You may not have put your borders on correctly.

Once your quilt top is all pieced and you are ready to add borders, it is tempting to just slap a long length of fabric on the sides, cut off any excess and think you are good to go. You have spent a good amount of time making your quilt top, it is a good idea to take this extra step to finish it correctly. Who wants a wavy quilt?

When you are ready to add your borders, lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center, from the top to the bottom. Cut two side borders to this measurement length.

Taking one border strip at a time, fold lengthwise in half and then again into fourths. Place a pin at the fold points. You will end up with three pins in the border. Fold your quilt in half and then fourths, and pin the fold points. With right sides together, pin the ends of the border to the ends of the quilt. Match the center pins from the border and quilt and pin together. Match the quarter marks from the border and quilt and pin together. I then fill in between the pins with at least one more pin for each fourth. 

There often is a little bit of excess fullness or fabric on either the border side or the quilt top. Whichever side seems more full, place towards the feed dogs when sewing. The feed dogs will help ease any fullness out.

You may need to gently hold the fabric taught in front of the presser foot as you sew to help ease any fullness out.


If it seems like there isn’t any fullness or excess fabric on either the border, or the quilt top, place the quilt top towards the feed dogs when sewing.

After both side borders are sewn on, press the seam allowance away from the quilt top, or towards the border.

Now repeat the whole process for the top and bottom borders.

Lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center of the quilt, from one side to the other side. Cut two borders to this measurement. Pin the quarter marks on the borders and quilt. Pin the borders to the quilt matching pins. Pin the ends of the border and the quilt together. Etc.

A few tips:

• Using a walking foot for these long seams is helpful.
• It is okay if you have to piece or sew two strips together to make the total length measurement.  Just make sure you are cutting your border to the correct measurement before sewing on.

A perfectly flat quilt with borders.

Anasazi Medallion Quilt

 
I am honored to be a part of Moda Bake Shop.  This is my first post and I can’t wait to show you my finished project!  As a child, our family took many vacations to southern Utah and the Four-Corners area of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.  One of my favorite places to visit was Mesa Verde National Park–a spectacular area of canyons where the native Anasazi Indians “Ancient Ones” built their homes in the cliffs.   In honor of this, I decided to name my quilt Anasazi Medallion as the layout takes me back to those fun camping trips.

1 Dessert Roll (For this quilt I used Moda Ombres Marble Dots collection)
1 Jelly Roll for the borders (I also used Moda Ombres Marble Dots)
2 1/2 yards white fabric for the medallion setting and inner border (I also used Moda Marble Dots)
4 Yards Backing
3/4 Yard Binding (I also used Moda Marble Dots)

 Center Medallion:

Unroll your dessert roll and pair 10 fabrics strips according to your liking.   In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric color with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.

Sew two coordinated strips together, pressing all seams toward the dark fabric.  Then cut these strips into squares measuring 9 1/2 inches.  Each strip will yield 4 squares.  You will need a total of 18 squares.

From the 2 1/2 yards of white fabric, cut the inner border first from the lengthwise grain.  Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long.  Reserve these strips to apply to the center patchwork medallion once it has been completed.

From the remaining white fabric, cut the medallion setting squares.  Rotary cut 6 strips measuring 9 1/2 inches wide, then cut these into 9 1/2 inch squares. You will need a total of 18 squares. Draw a diagonal line down the center of each of these.

Layer one pieced pieced square with a white square on top, right sides together.  Sew a 1/4 inch seam allowance down both sides of the diagonal line on the white square.

Cut these in half along the drawn line and press seams toward the colored fabric.  This will yield 36 blocks for the center medallion.  Refer to the placement diagram for the correct orientation of these blocks in the medallion.

Border:

Unroll your jelly roll and pair fabrics according to your liking.  In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric strip with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.  Sew all all 2 1/2 inch strips together in rainbow order.  Rotary cut these into 6 inch widths.  14 rainbow repeats are needed, 4 for the top border, 4 for the bottom border, 3 for the right border and 3 for the left border.

Quilt Top Assembly Diagram:

Add the borders to your quilt top starting with the inner white strips first, then your completed rainbow repeat borders.

70 inches square quilt top.

I just love the vibrant colors in these Moda Marble basics dessert and jelly rolls .  Their colors are as vivid as my Zinnias in my garden!  Wow!  These fabrics are sure to make any project pop with awesome color.

Note: 1 Dessert Roll contains enough 5 inch strips to create enough squares for two center medallions.

Happy Quilting!

Shannon Mower
{moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com} 

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Machine Applique

Machine Applique is probably the most favorite thing I love about sewing. If there is a way to put an applique on something, you can almost guarantee that I will put it on there.

There are two types of applique that can be done by machine… applique and reverse applique. 

1. An applique is when a piece of fabric is cut into a shape then stitched on top of a base fabric.

2. Reverse applique is when the shape is cut from the base fabric and another piece of fabric is attached underneath the base fabric so that fabric shows through the cut shape. You then stitch towards the top base fabric to secure in place.

Stitch Types… it’s a personal thing. Use what you like best. 
Every sewing machine should have some basic stitches which are great to use with machine applique. Some machines have even more options from heirloom to decorative style stitches. Any stitch will work as long as you stitch along the edge of your applique fabric. Always use a test piece of fabric before sewing with new stitches to be sure you know where you needle is going and where to line up your fabrics with your machine foot.

Basic Applique Stitches… (A) Straight, (B) Zig-Zag, (C) Satin, (D) Blanket

Decorative Stitches… (E-F) Each model of machine has its own unique decorative stitches. I typically look for a stitch that has a straight edge in the stitching that I can line up with the raw edge of my applique to use as a guide when stitching.

 Just remember these three rules when machine appliqueing…

1. Use a high quality thread to help keep your stitches in tact for years to come. I like to use Aurifil Thread 50 wt and 40 wt in my sewing machine because of the quality and strength.

2. Use a fusible webbing to adhere your applique to your base fabric. Pellon makes two fantastic fusible webbing’s… Wonder-Under and Heavy Duty Wonder-Under. I use the regular wonder-under when working with a single piece of fabric. The Heavy Duty Wonder-Under is great for a scrap applique when there are seams in the applique that the webbing needs to adhere to.

3. Have fun and experiment with new stitches.  I personally believe there is no wrong way to stitch on an applique. Be creative and try something new.

Get inspired and create something!

Angela Yosten
blog.angelayosten.com

Moda Fabrics featured… Flats by Angela Yosten and Bella Solid White.
Aurifil Threads featured… Flats by Angela Yosten in 50 wt
Stitches featured are from a Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP sewing machine.

Fairground Quilt

Hi everyone! It is LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations. Confession. I love banners! I have a banner for just about every holiday and season that I love to hang on my mantel. At the end of last year, I sketched up this quilt and got so so excited to make it, but I was waiting for the perfect fabric. When I saw Scrumptious I knew it was the one. 

1 Scrumptious Layer Cake 
2 1/8 yards neutral fabric – Bella Solid in Bleached White 97
1 1/3 yards for border – Scrumptious Berry in Aqua 55074-12
5/8 yard for binding – Scrumptious Bias Stripe in Lime 55071-13
3 3/4 yards backing – Bella Solid in Aqua 34
65″ x 85″ batting 

finished size 61″ x 80″

1. All seams are 1/4″.
2. WOF means width of fabric.
3. HSTs stands for half-square triangles.  
4. When cutting the layer cake squares, use the cutting diagrams.  When you cut for blocks #1 and #2, some pieces will be used in other blocks. I recommend placing the pieces in piles and labeling with the corresponding measurement and block to avoid confusion. 

This quilt is made up of four different blocks. 

 

Decide if you would like your pinwheels in block #3 to be scrappy or not. If you choose scrappy note the change in the cutting of block #3. Otherwise, follow the cutting as follows. 

{Cutting}

Neutral *based off 42″ wide fabric
From the 2 1/8 yards of neutral fabric cut:
{6} 3.5″ x WOF strips
Subcut {6} 6.5″ x 3.5″ strips per strip for a total of {36}

{11} 2.5″ x WOF strips (you only may need {9} if your fabric is 44″/45″ wide)
Subcut {4} 8.5″ x 2.5″ strips per strip for a total of {42}  

{9} 2.5″ x WOF strips strips for the sashing between rows

Border
From the 1 1/2 yards of border fabric cut:
{7} 6″ x WOF strips

Binding
From the 5/8 yard of binding fabric cut:
{8} 2.5″ x WOF strips

Layer Cake Squares – select 30 layer cake squares
There is very little waste so cut carefully; measure twice, cut once! I recommend cutting one or two before cutting multiple at a time. After you are done cutting for each block, stack pieces together and clearly label to avoid confusion.

If you are using HSTs from the Flying Geese, skip the following:
From any of the remaining layer cake squares cut:
{6} 2.5″ squares – Add to 2.5″ squares for block #2 for a total of {24}
{6} pairs of 3 3/8″ squares for a total of {12} – the contrasting part of the pinwheels in block #3

{Flying Geese}

All blocks use a Flying Geese unit. Draw a diagonal line on the back of all {72} of the 3.5″ squares. If you making the scrappy pinwheels, or if you want a bunch of FREE HST, draw a second diagonal line 1/2″ away from your first line on your 3.5″ squares. 

1.Take one 6.5″ x 3.5″ neutral piece and place right-side up. Place one 3.5″ square as shown with the wrong-side up. Make sure the diagonal line is correctly positioned as shown below. (1a) If you have a second diagonal line for the HST, place so it is above the first line. (1b) Pin square in place.

2. Sew directly on the drawn diagonal line. (If you have a second diagonal line, sew on that line next.)

3. Next, use a clear ruler and place the 1/4″ line directly on top of your stitching. Cut on the outside with a rotary cutter. (3a)  If you are making HST, this will yield one HST per side. (3b)

4. Press the seam to the print or top of the unit. (Do not IRON this seam, or you may get a wonky unit.)

5. Repeat on the the other side of unit. If you have a second line, position it ABOVE the first line.

6. Press entire unit.

7. If you are using HSTs from this step, choose {4} HSTs per block #3 for a total of {24} HSTs. Square up to 2.5″. Place your HSTs with your block #3 cutting.  

Remember, keep these organized by block to avoid confusion. (For example. I made all my Flying Geese for block #1 then placed them with all my block #1 cutting. Then continued for the next block and so on.)

{Half-Square Triangles (HSTs)}

If you are using HSTs from the flying geese, skip this step: 
For each #3 block, you will need {2} pairs of 3 3/8″ squares. One fabric will be the same as the outside part of the block. Call this the “neutral”. The other fabric will be the the contrast part of the pinwheel. Call this the “color”.

1. Using a pencil, lightly draw a diagonal line on the back of your neutral squares. 

2. Place one neutral square and one color square right sides together with the diagonal line facing up. 

3. Sew 1/4″ from the diagonal line on each side. 

4. Cut directly on the drawn diagonal line to yield {2} HSTs.

5. Press the seam towards the darker of the two fabrics.  

6. Square up your HSTs to 2.5″.

7. Place HSTs with your block #3 cutting.

{Block Assembly}
unfinished size 6.5″ x 9.5″

Block #1

For each block #1 you will need:
{1} 6.5″ square, and {1} flying geese unit – all from same fabric

1. With wrong sides together, pin a flying geese unit to a matching 6.5″ square as shown below.  Sew together and press seam towards the 6.5″ square.

2. Repeat for a total of {18} blocks. 

Block #2

For each block #2 you will need:
{2} 1.5″ x 4.5″ strips, {2} 1.5″ x 6.5″ strips, and {1} flying geese unit – all from same fabric 
{4} 2.5″ squares from various fabrics

1. Choose {4} 2.5″ squares four each four-patch unit. Sew together in two rows of two and press seams in opposite directions. Pin the rows together, nesting the seams, and sew. Press seam open to reduce bulk. 

2. Sew a 4.5″ x 1.5″ strip to both sides of the four-patch unit. Press seams to outside. (2a) Sew a 6.5″ x 1.5″ strip to both sides of the four-patch unit. Press seams to outside. (2b) The unit should measure 6.5″.

3. With wrong sides together, pin the matching flying geese unit to the four-patch unit as shown below.  Sew together and press seam towards the four-patch unit.

4. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks. 

Block #3

For each block #3 you will need:
{2} 1.5″ x 4.5″ strips, {2} 1.5″ x 6.5″ strips, and {1} flying geese until – all from same fabric 
{4} HSTs

1. Arrange {4} HSTs into a pinwheel design. 

2. Sew together in two rows of two and press seams in opposite directions. Pin the rows together, nesting the seams, and sew. Press seam open to reduce bulk. 

 3. Follow step two in block #2 for attaching the 1.5″ strips to each side. Press seams to outside. The unit should measure 6.5″.

 4. With wrong sides together, pin the matching flying geese unit to the pinwheel unit as shown below.  Sew together and press seam towards the pinwheel unit.

5. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks.   

Block #4

For each block #4 you will need:
{1} flying geese unit – shouldn’t match any of the other fabrics for this block
{3} 2.5″ x 6.5″ strips – each a different fabric

1. Sew {3} 2.5″ x 6.5″ strips together along the 6.5″ side. The unit should measure 6.5″.

2. With wrong sides together, pin a flying geese unit to the stripe unit as shown below.  Sew together and press seam towards the stripe unit.

3. Repeat for a total of {6} blocks.  

{Quilt Assembly}

Layout your blocks in {6} rows of {6}. In each row I included {3} of block #1, and {1} each of the other blocks. Then alternate their position from row to row. (I know this picture only shows five rows. I decide to add another row after this picture.) 

 {Sashing}

1. Sew {1} 2.5″ x 1.5″ tag piece to the top of {1} 8.5″ x 2.5″ neutral piece. Press seam OPEN. Repeat until you have {42}.

2. Sew {1} sashing strip to both sides of the first block in the row. 

3. Sew {1} sashing strip to the right side of the remaining blocks in the row.

4. Sew the the row together. Press seams out towards the sashing.Press the entire row. Repeat for six rows.

5. Sew together {2} of the 2.5″ x WOF sashing strips. Press seam OPEN.

6. Using a tape measure, measure each row. If they are different take the average. Mark this measurement on your sashing strip and mark with a pin. Pin and sew sashing between rows. Trim after sewing, saving the excess for remaining sashing. Repeat between all rows.

7. After adding the sashing between all rows, measure the width of the quilt at the top, middle, and bottom.  If they are different, take the average. Measure this on a sashing strip and mark with a pin. Sew to the top of the quilt. Trim after sewing, saving the excess. Repeat for the bottom.

{Borders}

1. Sew together {2} border strips. Press seam OPEN.

2. First we will attach the side borders. Measure the length of the quilt at both sides and down the middle. If they are different, take the average. Measure this length on the border strip and mark with a pin. Bring the end of the border strip to the pin and mark the middle of the strip with a pin.

3. Fold your quilt top in half lengthwise and mark with a pin.

4. Place border strip and quilt top right sides together. Using the pins as a guide, match the middle of the quilt and the middle of the border strip. Pin in place. Match the ends of the quilt with the ends of the border and pin in place. Pin between the middle and ends.

5. Sew border in place. Trim border and check corner is square. Repeat with other side. 

6. Next, measure across the width of the quilt at the top, middle, and bottom. Again, if different take the average. Fold your quilt top in half widthwise and mark with a pin.  Repeat the same process in step 4 for the top and bottom border.

Next, comes everyone’s favorite phrase in quilting, “Baste, quilt, and bind”. Then wash, love, cuddle, and use your Fairground quilt.  

one darling 61″ x 80″ quilt 

LeAnne Ballard
{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Matching Points

Our celebration of National Sewing Month continues with another great Moda Bake Shop Basics tutorial today.

Hi Moda Bake Shop readers, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I’m back today to share a few tips on what I do to create perfectly matched points in my piecing.  Now we all know that none of us are perfect, so don’t expect your quilts to be either!

Two of the most important things to do when you want matching points is to make sure that you (1) cut accurately and (2) maintain an accurate 1/4″ seam in your piecing.  I cannot stress to you enough how important these steps are and how they will make your sewing life much more enjoyable 🙂  If you struggle in these areas, I suggest you practice here first.

Ways to improve your cutting:

• Purchase and maintain a quality rotary cutter (this means replacing your blade frequently!)  
• If you use multiple sized rulers, I suggest you find the ones you like the best and stick with that brand.  Some of the brands can be off just a bit from each other and that will make a difference in your piecing.  My choice in rulers is Omnigrid.  I have all different shapes and sizes.
• Measure twice and cut once!

Ways to achieve an accurate 1/4″ seam:

• Use a 1/4″ foot on your sewing machine.  I have one and it makes all the difference in the world for me.
• If you don’t have a 1/4″ foot, try placing blue painter’s tape along your machine marking the 1/4″ line.  
• Take it slow!  If you can’t seem to maintain a straight seam, just slow it down a bit.

Now that we’ve covered these two fundamentals, let’s talk about matching up those points.  I almost always press my seams to the side (usually toward the darker fabric).  This helps tremendously in matching points when sewing rows together.  You want to make sure that each row’s seams are pressed in opposite directions as shown below.

This will enable you to “nest” your seams together.  As you place the rows right sides together, you can actually feel where the seams are and they will just fit snugly right next to each other and almost lock into place.

Here is a shot of the two seams nesting together.

Now that they are locked together, place a pin on the front side of the seam (the side that will be going into your sewing machine first.  Some people find it helpful to pin on each side of the seam lines and if that works for you, great!  Once you sew your two rows together, you will end up with beautifully crisp matching points.

Now you may be thinking, okay that’s easy enough, but what about matching up points when you are piecing half square triangles?!  Well, let me help you with that too.  One key step in matching up points when piecing half square triangles is to make sure they are all squared up and trimmed to the appropriate size (here I go with the accurate cutting again).  I know it can be tedious work, but the end result is so very worth it.

When piecing half square triangles together, it is wonderful if your seams are pressed in the opposite direction, but that doesn’t always work out once you start laying out your design.  If you can’t “nest” the seams like above, here is what I do.  First match the seams up perfectly and make sure your blocks are square with each other.  

While keeping a firm hold onto the matched seams in the corner, I start sewing from the opposite end of the block.  This works better for me than starting with the matched points.  My machine is happier when I do it this way because it doesn’t seem to like the bulk of the matched points when I start at that end. 

Keep a firm hold on those matched points all the way until they slide nicely under your 1/4″ foot.  If just holding them doesn’t work for you, pinning is always a good option.

 Now that you have some half square triangles sewn together into rows, you will once again press the rows in opposite directions to nest the seams together while piecing.

I ALWAYS pin the seams when piecing half square triangles.  If I don’t, they just don’t match as well.

There may be two ways that your half square triangles will meet up between rows.  One is when the points are on the same side of the seam as shown below.  Just take care when nesting your seams that those points line up and pin in place.

The result can be seen below.

The other way your half square triangles may meet between the rows is when the points are on opposite sides of the seam.  Once again, take care to match the points when nesting the seams and pin in place.

And you will end up with beautiful points like this…

I hope you found these tips to be helpful.  If you have any questions let me know and if you want to see what I have made with these blocks, head over to my blog to find out.  

Happy piecing!

Amanda 

{Material Girl Quilts}

Urban Vestiges Quilt

My name is Judy Gauthier.  I have been a critical care nurse for 30 years and a couple of years ago I decided to open a quilting and yarn shop.  I have been sewing since I was 9 years old.  My first love was garment sewing, and then the quilting bug hit me.  I have always loved fiber arts and fabric.  My shop, Bungalow Quilting and Yarn, is located in Ripon Wisconsin.  It is a contemporary quilt shop with yarn and knitting supplies.  It has done very well.  We are entering our second year of business.  Fabric, especially bright and contemporary, just speaks to me.  I can’t seem to get enough!

One Jelly Roll, Posh Pumpkin by Sandy Gervais

Three Mini Charm Packs, Posh Pumpkin by Sandy Gervais

One Yard of Moda Bella Solid, Sienna

One Yard of Moda Bella Solid, Cheddar

From the Sienna Moda Solid, cut 42 bricks.  Bricks are 5 1/2 inches x 2 1/2 inches.
From the Cheddar Moda Solid, cut 3 fat quarters.  These must measure 18 inches x 22 inches.

Find 2 of the darkest strips from the jelly roll and cut 3 – 18″ pieces from them. Set aside.

Taking one of the strips from the jelly roll, add a brick to the end of it by stitching the 2 1/2 inch end of the brick to the 2 1/2 inch end of the jelly roll.  Press the seam down toward the brick.  Take another strip from the jelly roll and add it to the brick and jelly roll unit that you just created by sewing the 2 1/2 inch end of the jelly roll to the 2 1/2 inch end of the brick.  To that unit, add another brick to the jelly roll strip in the same manner as previous.  Continue in this manner until all the jelly roll strips and bricks have been used.

You will have a very long strip that measures approximately 1700 inches long.
Subcut this long strip into 34, 36 inch strips and 34 12 1/2 inch strips.  Set aside.

Using the 3 mini charm square packs make 3 units.  The three units will be 6 squares x 7 squares.  You will sew  7 columns of 6 squares and sew these together to make a rectangle. Press the seams flat.

 Fold these in half lengthwise and press with the iron.  Fold them in half again, widthwise, and press.  These will be cut into circles.  Each unit will make one circle for the trees.

From each of  these folded units, you will cut one 11 1/2 inch diameter circle.  You may use a circle cutter to assist you, but remember that these must be one inch larger than the circle that they are to be set in to.  These will be set into the Bella Solid fat quarters.  The folded point will be the center of your circle.  Cut these into 11 1/2 inch circles.  

Now, take the 3 fat quarters that you have cut from the Moda Bella Solid Cheddar fabric.   You are going to cut circles out of these so that you can set in the patchwork trees.
Fold the entire fat quarter in half lengthwise and press.

Then, fold it again but not in half.  This time you are going to fold it down but leave 4 inches of it unfolded on the bottom, as shown:

Press again.  You will be cutting a circle out from the folded edge of the fat quarter through all 4 thicknesses. The circle must measure 10 1/2 inches in diameter, no larger.  You can use any of the circle cutters on the market to assist you, but it must measure 10 1/2 inches in diameter.  If you are using a circle cutter to assist you, then make certain to follow “The Inch Rule”.  This rule says that for set in circles, you must always cut the background frame one inch smaller than the circle you want to set in.  

Cut out a 10 1/2 inch circle.  

Now you are going to set the patchwork circle made from the Moda Mini Charms into the Bella Solid fat quarter.  Where you have pressed there will be 4 creases.  You will match the creases on the patchwork circle to the creases on the Bella Solid Circle, and right sides together, sew the patchwork circle in to the solid circle.  

Press the seams toward the center of the circle.  Do this for all three trees.  

Now, take the 3 dark strips that you originally cut to 18 inches from the jelly roll and sew one to the bottom of each of two of the tree units.  The ones that have the strip sewn to the bottom will be the top tree and the middle tree.    Press the seam allowance toward the strip.

Now you need to create the tree trunks.  This is where you will use the remainder of  the Sienna Bella Solid. Draw a tree trunk and transfer to the Sienna Bella Solid.  Mine was drawn free form.  You can make all three the same or change them on each tree.  

Using your favorite applique technique, applique a tree trunk to each tree.  When you’ve finished with the applique, sew the 3 tree units together so they appear in a column as below:  

Now, you are going to take the 34 strips that you have cut to 36 inches and sew them together along the long edges of the strips, stacking them and pressing the seams as you go, until you have used all 34.  Sew the entire unit of strips to the right side of the tree column.  Press the seam.  

Then you are going to take the 34 12 inch strips and sew them  together along the long edges, stacking them until all 34 have been used up.  Sew the entire unit to the left side of the tree unit. Press the seam.  

Layer with batting, quilt, and bind.  

One Quilt the is 66″ x 66 to remind you of fall all year long!

Judy Gauthier
{www.bungalowquilting.com}

Moda Bake Shop Basics: Rotary Cutting

Join Oda May today with a few tips for rotary cutting!
Rotary cutting is an essential part of quilting (thank goodness! I would hardly get anything done if I had to cut everything out with scissors. Patience is not my strong point.) Rotary cutters are also probably the most dangerous part of quilting. I personally have the quilter’s trademark squared off index finger so I’ve come by these tips honestly.

ROTARY SAFETY TIPS

• Always cover the blade with the built-in cover when you set it down. Every single time – even if you’re just setting it down for a second. Make it a habit.
• Always cut away from your body.
• Replace your blade when it stops cutting well. Working with a dull or damaged blade can cause you to cut in an unsafe manner – using excess pressure to cut through your fabric, etc. and that’s a recipe for disaster. 
• Only use the rotary cutter for its intended use.
• Keep your fingers well away from the edges of templates and rulers while cutting. You don’t want a squared off index finger like me. (Plus blood stains can ruin your beautiful fabric.)

ROTARY CUTTING TIPS

• Plan your cutting before you start to minimize waste.
• Press and starch fabric before cutting.
• Square up fabric edges before you start cutting.
• Use the lines on your ruler or template for a straight edge, not the lines on the mat. 
• Save yourself some back pain by cutting on a counter-height surface.

Did I leave anything out? Let us all know your safety and cutting tips in the comments!

Safely Sewing,