Trifle Dish Quilt

Today’s instructions give fabric requirements for the entire quilt top plus backing and binding. Remember that there are many options when piecing the Trifle Dish blocks so you can make substitutions using other precuts for a more scrappy look. Several options are given.

  • 1 fat quarter bundle (at least 32 fat quarters) -OR- 52 layer cake squares {1 layer cake plus 5 fat quarters cut into 10 additional layer cake squares} + 12 fat eighths -OR- 5 charm packs + 12 fat eighths 
  • 4¼ yards background + whipped cream fabric
  • 41 layer cake squares for border (optional)
  • ¾ yard binding fabric (370″) | ⅝ yard binding fabric if you omit the borders (306″)
  • 9 yards backing fabric | 5⅛ yards backing fabric if you omit the borders


Links below will take you to the instructions for each individual row. For the entire set in one file, scroll to the bottom of this post for the Printer Friendly Version.

6 blocks measuring 9½” square + (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips = 64½” x 9½”

8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
 
{whipped cream}
13 blocks measuring 4½” w x 8½” h + (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
6 blocks measuring 10½” w x 8½” h + (2) 2½” x 8½” end sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
6 blocks measuring 9½” square + (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips = 64½” x 9½”
8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”

5 blocks measuring 11½” square + (6) 2¾” x 11½” sashing strips = 64½” x 11½”

 


80½” w x 99½” h with borders | 64½” w  x  83½” h without borders

Today is our last installment of the Trifle Dish series and we want to see what you’ve been sewing! Link up to your blog/Flickr/Instagram at the end of this post to show us your blocks so far. We will leave the linky party open for a week and then choose 3 winners from the list.

Summer Sand and Stars Quilt


  
Summer Sand and Stars is about stars! Big stars, little Stars, embedded stars, floating stars…all made from the same basic set of instructions.  Playing with shadows and color, it is the perfect picture of summer daydreams and night sailing.

This quilt is made from 12 large blocks, set in a 3 x 4 grid.  There is one border with one setting square.


  • Stars: 1 Fat Quarter Bundle – I used Catalina Batiks
  • Backgrounds:
    • 1¾ yards light – I used SKU #4328-41 from Summer Vacation Batiks
    • 2½ yards dark – I used SKU #4328-42 from Summer Vacation Batiks
  • Binding: ¾ yards – I used SKU #4329-29 from Catalina Batiks
  • Backing: 5½ yards  – I used SKU #4329-30 from Catalina Batiks
  • It will also be helpful to have at least 13 Ziploc sandwich bags to hold your pieces.
  • 3 pieces of printer paper – on which to print a paper foundation pattern for the tiniest stars. When you print the patter be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.  If it does not you can adjust its size by fiddling with the sizing on your printer. The Printer Friendly file at the end of this post has the foundation pattern for the star.

Determine Color Placement. Think of your quilt as a piece of 8½” x 11″ white printer paper.  In your mind, draw a line from one corner of the paper to its diagonal opposite. The colors in my quilt are loosely arranged along this line. The cooler colors (blues, purples, and greens) live in the north, above the line, and the warmer colors (reds, yellows, and oranges) live to the south, below the line. Sparkle happens when you let some of the colors drift across the imaginary border line.  It creates little pockets of interest that keep your eyes moving across the quilt.

 

Look at the gray scale drawing below.  Each block of the quilt is numbered.  The light and dark backgrounds are shaded respectively with white and dark gray.  The cold colors are black.  The warm colors are light gray.  Some blocks have three fabric in them.  Where this is the case an additional gray is used.

With all these things in mind, turn to your stack of fabrics. You want to select the fabrics for each square and label them accordingly.

Fat Quarter cutting diagram

Each Big Star (1 center square and 8 points) can be made from 1 fat quarter with enough left over to make one Center Star and a Tiny Star.   You could make the Big Star in block #2 and the Center Star in block #9, and one of the Tiny Stars in block #11 all from the same fat quarter, but no more

NOTE: Blocks 2, 3, 5, and 6 share a Quarter Star and so do blocks 4, 5, 7, and 8. You want to make sure that you use the same fabric for these pieces.

Block Types. There are 7 different block types in this quilt.  Their placement is illustrated in the drawing below and the block types are shown in the other diagram.

 

Before you start cutting, make labels for your blocks and block components so you can keep track of all the pieces. Label 13 different Ziplocs with numbers 1 through 13 (these are for the 12 blocks in the quilt top plus the star block pieced into the border). Make additional Post-It labels for each individual block and stick them on the Ziploc bags. Use Wonder Clips or paper clips to keep the pieces for each type of star together if desired.

  • Bag #1 | Labels for Big Star 1 (BS1) and Tiny Star 1 (TS1)
  • Bag #2 | Labels for BS2 and Quarter Star 1 (QS1)
  • Bag #3 | Labels for BS3, Center Star 1 (CS1), and QS1
  • Bag #4 | Labels for BS4  and QS2
  • Bag #5 | Labels for BS5, QS1, and QS2
  • Bag #6 | Labels for BS6 and QS1
  • Bag #7 | Labels for BS7 and QS2
  • Bag #8 | Labels for BS8 and QS2
  • Bag #9 | Labels for BS9 and CS2
  • Bag #10 | Labels for BS10 and CS3
  • Bag #11 | Labels for BS11 and TS2
  • Bag #12| Labels for BS12 and Tiny Embedded Star (TES)
  • Bag #13 | Labels for Tiny Floating Star (TFS)

CUTTING DIRECTIONS
Cut the pieces for one block at a time. When cutting from fat quarters, cut the biggest pieces you need first. When cutting background fabric, cut a 5½” x WOF strip.  Starting with the biggest pieces, cut all of your pieces from this strip.  Save any leftover bits and use them for the smaller cuts as you go.  You should have plenty of fabric.

BLOCK 1A | Big Star 1 + Tiny Star 1

  • BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK 2B | Big Star 2 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS2, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square  for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 3C | Big Star 3 + Center Star 1 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS3, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS1, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • QS1, cut (1) 2¾” square  for center and (1) 3½” square for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square  for Quarter Star corner
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points

BLOCK 4B | Big Star 4 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS4, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 5D | Big Star 5 + Quarter Star 1 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS5, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (2) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (2) 3½” squares for Quarter Star points
    • (2) 2¾” squares for Quarter Star corners

BLOCK 6B | Big Star 6 + Quarter Star 1

  • BS1, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS1, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 7B | Big Star 7 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS7, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 8B | Big Star 8 + Quarter Star 2

  • BS8, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • QS2, cut (1) 3½” square for points and (1) 2¾” square for center
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (1) 3½” square for Quarter Star points
    • (1) 2¾” square for Quarter Star corner

BLOCK 9E | Big Star 9 + Center Star 2

  • BS9, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS2, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 10E | Big Star 10 + Center Star 3

  • BS10, cut (4) 5½” squares for points, (4) 2¾” squares for center block corners, and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • CS3, cut (1) 5” square for center and (4) 3½” squares for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5″ squares for Big Star corners
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points

BLOCK NUMBER 11A | Big Star 11 + Tiny Star 2

  • BS11, cut (4) 5½” squares for points and (1) 9½” square for center
  • TS2, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” x 2″ for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (3) 5″ squares for Big Star corner patches
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Star
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″.

BLOCK NUMBER 12F | Big Star 12 + Tiny Embedded Star

  • BS12, cut:
    • (3) 5” squares for Big Star center
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
    • (4) 1¾” squares for corner patches of Tiny Embedded Star
    • (4) 1¾” x 2¾” rectangles for edge patches of Tiny Embedded Star
  • TS1, cut (1) 2¾” square for center and (8) 1½” squares for points
  • Background (dark), cut:
    • (4) 5” squares for corner patches
    • (4) 5½” squares for Big Star points
  • Paper Pattern for Tiny Embedded Star. Be certain that the longest dotted line of the pattern measures 5″

BORDERS + 13 G | Tiny Floating Star

  • TFS, cut (1) 3½” square for center and (4) 2½” squares for points
  • Background (light), cut:
    • (4) 2″ squares for Tiny Floating Star corners
    • (4) 2½” squares for Tiny Floating Star points
  • Light background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips
  • Dark background, cut (4) 6½” x WOF strips

BINDING: cut (8) 2½” x WOF strips

If you have cut and labeled all of those pieces you deserve a break.  Step away from the table and the rotary cutter.  Go outside and breath some fresh air.  Gaze at the sky.  Listen to the sounds that surround you.  Breath.

Make sure you take a break after you cut your pieces.

SEWING DIRECTIONS
As much as you are tempted to create a production line, play it safe and make only one block at a time.

Block A

Block A {There are 2 A type blocks. Gather bags 1 and 11 plus foundation pattern for tiny stars.}

  • Tiny Star.  Make 1 tiny star per block. Use the tutorial located {here} to paper foundation piece the tiny stars.
  • Big Star.  Create Double Half Square Triangles (HSTs).
    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 5½” background squares. Layer 1 background block with 1 star color block, right sides together. Sew ¼” on each side of the drawn diagonal line. Iron to set seams. Cut on drawn line to create 2 (HSTs). Gently iron seam allowances open. Trim to 5″ square. Repeat 3 times for a total of 8 HSTs.
Half Square Triangle Construction

  • Sew HSTs together in 4 sets of 2 so that the seam line marks the center of a large triangle of background fabric. Sew seam allowances open. Arrange pieces on desk or design wall in front of you to match drawing of block A.
Double HST

Piece A blocks together in rows, using the components you have created plus the background squares.

Big Star A, row 1
Big Star, row 2
Big Star, row 3

Iron seam allowances away from the double HSTs. Trim blocks to 18½” square. Create 2 of these blocks.

Block B

Block B {There are 5 B type blocks. Gather bags 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8.}

  • Quarter Star. Repeat process from A blocks to make 4 HSTs.Trim to 2¾” square. Join Quarter Star HSTs with background and print squares to make a Quarter Star unit as shown below. Trim to 5” square. Make a total of 5 Quarter Star units.

Quarter Star
  • Big Star. Repeat process as described for Block A replacing Tiny Star with Quarter Star when putting the block rows together. Be sure that the Quarter Star is on the outside corner of the block.

Block C

Block C. {There is only one type C block. Gather bag number 3.}

  • Repeat process for Quarter Star as described for Block B
  • Repeat process for double HSTs as described for Block A
  • Center Star. Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces. Use 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares for HSTs. Trim HSTs to 2¾” square. Arrange pieces to create a 9½” square star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners. Piece together the row components for block C:
    • Row 1: 5″ square background fabric; double HST with background triangle pointing down; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric.
    • Row 2: double HST with background triangle pointed to the right; 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ whole star block; double HST with background triangle pointing to the left
    • Row 3: Quarter Star with star fabric on bottom left edge; double HST with background triangle pointing up; 5″ x 5″ square background fabric
Block D

Block D. {There is only one type D block. Gather bag number 5.}

  • Repeat process for Block B replacing one 5″ background square with a Quarter Star
  • Rows 1 and 3 of this block are the same….but flipped.
Block E

Block E. {There are 2 E type blocks.  Gather bags 9 and 10.}

  • Repeat process for Block C replacing Quarter Star with a 5” background square.

Block F

Block F. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 12.}

  • Make Tiny star as described in Block A
  • Using Tiny star and (3) 5″ square star fabric make 4 patch.
  • Trim 4 patch to 9½”’ square to make center of block
  • Repeat process as described in Block A, replacing tiny star in corner with a 5″ square of background fabric.

Block G. {There is only one type F block. Gather bag number 13.}

  • Repeat process for Big Star in Block A with smaller pieces.
    • Use 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares for HSTs
    • Trim HSTs to 2″ x 2″
  • Arrange pieces to create a 6 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ star just like the big star but with 4 plain corners.

QUILT ASSEMBLY
Make sure all blocks are trimmed to 18½” square and join them together as shown below.

Block placement

Block placement

  • Be careful to keep the Quarter Stars pointing in the right directions.  You want them to create whole stars when the blocks are sewn together.
  • Sew 4 rows of 3 blocks each
  • Iron seam allowances to the right in rows 1 and 3 and to the left in rows 2 and 4
  • Sew rows together to complete center of top

BORDERS

  • Gather setting star, block G, (4) 6½” x WOF strips light background,  and (4) 6½” x WOF strips dark background
  • Measure quilt. It should be something like 54½” wide by 72½” long. Record measurements:
    •  ___________ wide
    •  ___________ long
  • Sew 2 light background strips together along short edge, creating a strip that is approximately 6 1/2″ x 84″
  • Trim newly created strip to 6 1/2″ x length of quilt
  • Sew to lighter/warmer side of quilt top.  In the diagram it will be to the right.
  • Iron seam allowance towards the border.
  • Repeat process with dark background, sewing strip on the opposite side of the top.
  • Measure width of quilt and record _______________.  (It should be close to 66 1/2″)
  • Sew remaining dark background strips together to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
  • Sew to top of quilt.
  • Iron seam allowances towards the border.
  • Sew remaining light background strips and setting star block G together, with the star on one end to make a strip that is 6 1/2″ x width of your quilt.
  • Iron seam allowance between strip and block towards the strip.
  • Sew to bottom of quilt making sure that the star block falls to the left side, under the light background border.
  • Iron seam allowance towards the border.

Layer, baste, and quilt as desired.

I hope you enjoy making my quilt.  Be sure to share it with the other Tops to Treasures quilters on the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

A fun 67″ x 85″ throw or topper for a star struck twin bed.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Christmas Ribbons Quilt


Shops are filled with holiday fabrics and we have a series of fun and festive quilts to inspire you to get that Christmas sewing done early this year!

14 Fat Quarters (Be Jolly by Deb Strain)
3 yards light background (Bella solids in Bleached White)
3/4 yard binding
4 1/2 yards backing


Iron and starch your fat quarters.  Make sure you have at least 16”x21” of usable material in each piece.  Cut each fat quarter into eight 5” squares and four 5.5” squares according to diagram:

From your background (white) fabric, cut:
twelve 2.5”xWOF strips (sashing)
eight 4.5”xWOF strips (border)
eight 5.5”xWOF strips
Subcut your 5.5”xWOF strips into 56 @ 5.5” squares.    Draw a diagonal line on all of these background squares:

I found it easiest to work with one ‘row’ at a time, so you are working with the prints from 2 contrasting fat quarters at a time (so no fabric mix-ups within the row are possible).

Pair each background 5.5” square with one of the print 5.5” squares cut from your fat quarters:

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the marked line:

Cut along diagonal line:

Press seam open:

Trim each HST (half square triangle) to 5”:

On each of the 5” print squares cut from your fat quarters, draw a diagonal line:

Pair each of the 5” squares with a 5” contrasting HST:

Align them so that the drawn diagonal line goes in the opposite direction as the seam on the HST:

Sew a scant 1/4” seam from either side of the drawn line:

Cut on drawn line:

Press seams open:

Trim off dog ears if you prefer (optional).  This creates two 3-patch quarter square triangles that are the mirror image of each other:

When you get all the 3-patch quarter square triangles done for each pair of fat quarters, then you can arrange them into the blocks.  Sort your 3-patch blocks into piles (there will be 4 different configurations).  Lay them out so that all the white triangles face toward you and the small print triangles face each other.  I found this the easiest way to keep everything straight.

Half of them will be for the A block, and half for the B block (B block top 2, A block, bottom two):

So, start with the bottom two piles:

There are 8 of each of these 3-patch blocks.  Seperate 4 from each pile:

And rotate them 180 degrees so the white triangle face away from you:

Now you can sew these 4 sets of 4 3-patch blocks into your A blocks:

The B block is assembled the same way:

Only, when you sew the B block to the A block, you rotate is 180 degrees.

There will be 4 ‘A’ blocks and 4 ‘B’ blocks (don’t forget to rotate the B blocks!) per row.  Sew these 8 blocks (alternating A block and rotated B block) into one long row:

(sorry, my ironing board wasn’t quite long enough to show the entire row!)

Repeat with the other 6 pairs of fat quarters.  When you have your 7 rows sewn, you can start to assemble them into your quilt top.  Sew your twelve 2.5”xWOF strips into pairs to make 6 longer strips.  Measure your rows (mine measured just over 67” at this point), and cut your 2.5” strips to that measurement.  Sew the strips between the rows:

With your eight 4.5”xWOF strips, sew them into 4 pairs and attach your border.  You should now have a completed top!

Layer, baste, quilt as desired, and bind!


An approx. 76” x 79” quilt!

Karin Vail
{cascadequilts.com}

Trifle Dish: Brick Borders

Today is the last instructional post in the Trifle Dish Sew-Along. Oda May will return with a full pattern download and a giveaway opportunity on July 7. She’s going to ask to see some of your blocks for the giveaway so start sewing!

 
To make the BORDERS, use charm packs and Moda candy to mix and match for a scrappy version. Layer cakes will yield more repetitive blocks and introduce a secondary pattern.
For EACH brick border block, you will need:
Fabric:
    • ( 6) 4½” x 2½” rectangles
    • (4) 2½” squares
    Block Dimensions: 8″ x 8″ (finished) / 8½” w x 8½” h (unfinished)
    The brick borders are the perfect opportunity to use up the scraps from the rest of the quilt.
    You will need an additional (2) strips of fabric measuring 2″ x 8½” to complete the side borders to the appropriate length.
    Suggested precuts: Charm packs, layer cakes, Moda Candy
     
    1. Arrange fabric pieces as shown below and sew rows together, pressing each seam as you go. 
     
     2.  Join rows to create the block.  Because there are no seams to match, press seams open or to the side (whichever is your preference).
     

     
    You will need 8 blocks each for the top and bottom borders and 12 blocks each for the side borders (total of 40 blocks).

    3.  Join 8 blocks to create the top border. Repeat to create the bottom border. Attach to the quilt top.

     
    4. Join 12 blocks to create one side border. Add 2″ strips to each end of the border and attach to quilt side. Repeat to create the other side border.
    4 borders: 
     

    {Top Border}

    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½” 
    {Bottom Border}
    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
    {Side Borders}
    12 blocks measuring 8½” square + (2) 2″ x 8½” end sashing strips = 99½” x 8½”
    {per border}
    Block design by Cheryl Brickey of {Meadow Mist Designs}

    Trifle Dish: Assemble the Layers

     Today we are adding the whipped cream between our trifle dish layers!
     

    • Completed layers 1-8
    • 1 yard whipped cream fabric (sashing fabric for between layers)


    {NOTE: Dimensions of blocks/rows are unfinished measurements.}

    1. Cut off selvedges from whipped cream fabric and cut into 11 strips measuring 2½”  x WOF. Join strips end-to-end and press. Subcut into 7 strips measuring 2½” x 64½”.

    2. Assemble block layers and whipped cream layers. Measurements and block requirements are given below so you can check for accuracy.

    6 blocks measuring 9½” square + (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips = 64½” x 9½”
    {whipped cream}

    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
     
    {whipped cream}
    13 blocks measuring 4½” w x 8½” h + (12) 1 ½” x 8 ½” sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”

     

    {whipped cream}

    6 blocks measuring 10½” w x 8½” h + (2) 2½” x 8½” end sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
    {whipped cream}
    6 blocks measuring 9½” square + (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips = 64½” x 9½”

    {whipped cream}
    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”

     {whipped cream}
    8 blocks measuring 8½” square + 0 sashing strips = 64½” x 8½”
     

     {whipped cream}
    5 blocks measuring 11½” square + (6) 2¾” x 11½” sashing strips = 64½” x 11½”


    Quilt top measuring 64½” w x 83½” h (a nice size throw quilt!) Instructions for borders will be posted June 27.

    Oda May

    Trifle Dish Announcement

    For those of you sewing along with our Trifle Dish quilt, due to popular demand we’ve added a bit longer break between the last instructions and the final posting. The updated schedule is {here}.

    July 7 is the reveal date with full pattern download plus a link up with a chance to win prizes.

    Keeping sewing,
    Oda May

    Trifle Dish: Butterflies and 4-Patches

     
    To make LAYER 8, use charm packs, Moda candy, and layer cakes to mix and match for a scrappy version. Fat quarters will yield more repetitive blocks.

    For EACH Butterfly and 4-Patch block, you will need:

    Fabric 1/Background

    • (1) 6″ square
    • (4) 2¾” squares

    Fabric 2/Butterflies

    • (1) 6″ square

    Fabric 3/4-Patch A

    • (2) 2¾” squares

    Fabric 4/4-Patch B

    • (2) 2¾” squares

    Block Dimensions: 9″ x 9″ (finished) / 9½” w x 9½” h (unfinished)

    Note that the above fabric requirements won’t yield a completely scrappy block. Mix and match the block components in the row for a truly scrappy look.

    You will need an additional (5) strips of background fabric measuring 2½” x 9½” to complete the row.

    Suggested precuts: Fat quarter bundle, charm packs, layer cakes

     
    1.  Create quarter square triangles/hourglass blocks for the butterflies. Mark a pencil line along the diagonal of 1 background 6″ square. Place right sides together with a butterfly 6″ square. Sew a ¼” seam on each side of the pencil line. Trim along the opposite diagonal and then trim each piece on the pencil line to create 4 hourglass units.

    Piece hourglass units together to create (2) 5″ unfinished butterfly blocks. (Mix and match butterflies between blocks in the row for a scrappier look.)

    make 2 per block

    2. Make 4-patch units. Join 1 background 2¾” square with 1 print 2¾” square to create a 2-patch unit. Press to the darker fabric. Repeat to make one additional 2-patch unit. Flip one 2-patch unit so the background fabric is opposite the print fabric and sew a ¼” seam. Press to the darker fabric.

    Make (2) 4-patch units for this block. They should measure 5″ unfinished.

    3. Join butterfly and 4-patch blocks to complete the block as shown.

    4. Make 5 more blocks to complete the row. Add (5) 2½” x 9½” sashing strips between blocks to make the row measure 64″ wide (finished)


    1 row, measuring 64″ x 9″

    Block design by Trish Poolson of {Notes of Sincerity}