Eva Patchwork Memo Board


Hi, it’s Melissa from the Polkadot Chair. I’m excited to share this memo board idea with you. I know that the memo board idea has been around for a while, but I thought this was a fun new twist on it. It is a great way to show off the beautiful Eva fabric and a perfect project if you are a beginning quilter. (the ribbon will hide your seams *grin*).
The charm pack is perfect to use with this since you will get to use a large variety of fabrics to add interest and color to your board. I designed this board with cork so that it could do double duty. You could use it as a memo board or a pin board.
Enjoy!


1 Eva Charm Pack

1/4″ wide ribbon
Buttons of various sizes
1 piece of foam core (buy it at your local craft store)
1 package of cork tile squares
fusible fleece


Frame
Spray Paint


I designed my memo board to fit in a 12×16 frame that I already had (I spray painted it to match the fabric). This is the layout that I came up with to fit best in the frame. It seems like you will have extra squares, but you need to have enough give to wrap around the back of the cork and secure to the back of the frame.

Sew the squares together like this. Use 1/4″ seams.
Next assemble your board base.
Cut a piece of foam core to 12×16. Double check that it fits in your frame, it needs to be a bit loose to allow room for the fabric.
To cut the foam core just use your rotary cutter and ruler… use an old blade since it will dull your blade.
Cut and piece the cork squares to fit on the foam core pieces. You can also use your rotary cutter to cut the cork. Using hot glue secure at the corners. Cover the entire piece of foam core.
Next cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece the same size as the foam core. You are making a sandwich. It will look like this from the side. You will have foam core, cork board, 2 layers fusible fleece then your fabric.
If you wish, at this point add a monogram or applique image to one of the squares of your memo board.
Then, iron the fusible fleece onto the backside of your charm square piece on the section of it that you want to SHOW in your frame. DOUBLE CHECK it is in the right spot before you iron it on.
Next trim the fabric so that it is 2″ wider than the fusible fleece on all sides.
Now you will begin to lay out your ribbon. Begin at one corner and working diagonally, start by pinning ribbon the width of your fabric along the seams.
Next, start laying ribbon in the opposite direction. Every place that the ribbon overlaps place a pin. You will put a button here later. (make sure the ribbon is taught)
Using your sewing machine, stitch the ends of each piece of ribbon down. This will prevent it slipping when you hand sew on your buttons.
Using buttons of random sizes, begin hand sewing them on. You will sew them on each place the ribbon overlaps that will show in the frame.
Take your fabric piece and lay it over the cork/foam core piece. Using a hot glue gun, generoulsy glue the fabric and ribbon to the back. Make sure that you put a dot of glue under the ends of each piece of ribbon.
Flip it over and it will look like this! When you are done slip it into your frame and secure. Hang it up and enjoy!
1 memo board per charm pack.

Personalized Birdie Pillow


Hello! I’m so excited to share this cute pillow with you! Feel free to ask me questions, I’ll be glad to answer them.
Stop by my blog and say hi.
Melissa at http://www.polkadotchair.blogspot.com/


1 Birdie Charm Pack
1/2 yard white fabric OR use a white twin sheet (great way to get a lot of fabric!)
Heat and Bond Light
Warm and Natural Batting
1 button for eye
1 12×16 pillow form


Pink Ric- Rack
Grosgrain Ribbon Ruffle Trim

Okay to begin you will need 1 Birdie Charm pack (shown here are a charm pack and a layer cake, but you just need a charm pack).

The finished pillow size will be 12×16.

Cut 1 piece of white fabric to 6.75×10.75.

Since this is a pillow to be used on a bed I just used a white sheet. It’s a great way to get a lot of fabric for cheap!

Next on your computer print out the name you like in a good bulky font. (I used Font Diner Loungy). In your word processing program set the type to outline and print backwards.

Print the name. I like to use a light box to trace it but you can also just use a bright window.
Trace the name onto paper side of Heat and Bond.

Next pick the fabric pieces that you would like the letters on.

Iron the letters onto the WRONG side of the fabric. Cut out letters.

Arrange cut letters on white fabric piece. Iron on.

From the charm squares cut 42 strips 1.5 ” x 3″.

Sew (using a 1/4″ seam) 2 sets of 6 strips together.

Sew them to the sides of the center panel.

Sew 2 sets of 15 strips together,
Sew to top and bottom of center panel.


Using your favorite applique stitch, stitch around the letters. I just used a straight stitch.

Next you will need to quilt your pillow. You can do this to your liking. I used 1 layer of warm and natural and a piece of scrap fabric for the back (since it will not show).

I used a walking foot and did a decorative stitch in each seam. Then quilted wavy lines down the center panel.


Next. Using thread the same color as your ric rac, sew ric rac around edge of the center panel.
Set aside.

To make bird embellishment:

Trace a shape of a bird onto a piece of Heat and Bond. I used a piece of chipboard that I had in my scrapbooking stash. Trace the wing also.


Trim around Heat and Bond and iron onto wrong side of fabric.

Cut out bird.
Iron onto a piece of warm and natural.
Iron wing on.
Cut bird out.


Cut a 2nd piece of Heat and Bond. Iron onto warm and natural side of the bird.

Iron bird onto wrong side of a 2nd piece of fabric. The bird is double sided because you can see the back of it when sewed on the pillow.

(you are pretty much making a warm and natural sandwich… with a piece of fabric on each side)
Stitch around the edge of the bird, as close to the edge as you can.
Cut out bird. Sew on eye.

Pin Bird onto completed pillow top. Stitch though all layers (bird and pillow top) of the bird ONLY on the wing. Stitch around it 3 times to give it a nice dimensional touch.

Sew trim to edges of pillow. Attach back of pillow (also used a sheet) insert pillow form and stitch opening closed.


You will need approximately 20 charm squares for the pillow (depending on how you do your name) so you should be able to get 2 pillows out of one charm pack.

Angela’s Diaper Bag



Hi, my name is Melissa Mortenson and I’m very excited to share the tutorial for this fun diaper bag! It is made from 1 charm pack and 1 layer cake… that’s it! No other yardage required … just some interfacing and fusible fleece! I made this for a friend, Angela, thus the name.

I hope you enjoy it! I loved making it. Stop by my blog the polkadot chair and say hi!


1 Charm Pack- I used Santorini by Lila Tueller
1 Layer Cake
Fusible Fleece
Timtex/Peltex (fusible)
Heavy Weight Fusible Interfacing (I used fuse-a-shade)
Wide ribbon

1 pkg fabric lamination sheets- I used Heat n’ Bond Iron on Vinyl Matte. It comes in a package and is sold at the fabric store next to the Heat n’ Bond products.

1 hand towel
1/4″ wide elastic

This bag uses 1 layer cake and 1 charm pack. You will use almost the entire package of both. So to begin it is VERY important that you lay out all of your pieces. I think it’s easiest to open the package and put “similar” prints and colors together. It helps with sorting.

First lay out the pieces for the front and back of the bag.

These are charm pieces. (5″ pre-cut squares)

You will need 8 uncut charms for the front and 8 for the back

You will then need 4 additional charms for the top border.

Cut these pieces in half so that you have 8 2.5×5″ pieces.

Stitch together bag front and back pieces.

Set aside. You are done with the charm pieces

*note : I have an embroidery machine. So I decided to add a monogram to the front. If you do this, do it after the pieces are stitched but before you complete any other steps.

Next the layer cake pieces. Hold on this one’s a biggie!

Put piles by color or pattern. You will have several that you have 2 of the same pattern but different colors, you will also have several that are exactly the same. Match those up. Put in piles.

You will need:
2 matching/coordinating layer cake (LC) pieces for the side panels
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for side panel lining
1 LC piece for side panel & side lining border
2 matching/coordinating LC for the outer pockets
2 matching/coordinating for the LC outer pockets lining
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the bottom of the bag (outside bottom)
2 matching/coordinating LC pieces for the inside bottom of bag
4 LC pieces for front and back lining
1 or 2 LC piece for front and back lining border (up to you if you want the same pattern on all the border- I used 2 different pieces)
12 LC pieces for inside pockets (I just used a variety of pieces for this, none of them were the same)
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 1
2 matching LC pieces for bag divider side 2


Okay now you are going to cut some of your Layer Cake Pieces. SAVE ALL of your scraps. We will use some of them later. (note: in this photo the pieces look to be different lengths, they are not, they are both 10″ long, they just are laid out and not sewn yet that is why they look different)

The side panel of the bags are 8” wide.
Cut the following to 8” wide (do NOT cut the other edge, leave it at 10”)

2 side panels
2 side linings
1 side panel border
1 side panel border lining

Next Cut the side panel border piece to:
8” x 2.5″- you need 4

Cut 2 side pockets to:
8×8
Cut 2 side pocket linings to
8×8

Now for bag lining pieces:

Cut front and back lining border- to do this, Cut 1 layer cake piece into
4 pieces each 10”x 2.5” (you can use 2 different patterns if you like, that is what I did)

Now you are ready to start sewing!

Start with the lining:

Sew front lining piece (uncut layer piece) to lining border piece (10×2.5) Press seam up.
Sew 2nd front lining piece to lining border piece. Press seam down.
Matching seams sew 2 lining pieces together. (you will end up with a piece that is approx. 19.5 wide x 12.25 tall)
Repeat for back lining pieces & borders.

Due to seam allowance differences you need to trim the bag front piece (made out of charms earlier) and the lining piece to the same size.

Match centers and lay bag front over bag front lining. Trim excess off bag lining so it is the same size as bag front.

Repeat for back lining and bag back

Sew side lining pieces (8×10) to side lining borders (2.5×8)
Press

Sew 2 layer cake pieces together to make bag lining bottom.

Next cut heavy weight fusible interfacing the same size as ALL lining pieces. Iron on. Set lining pieces aside.

you should have:

1 bag front lining

2 side panel linings

1 bag back lining

1 bag bottom lining
Next move to the outer bag pieces:

Sew 2 uncut layer cake pieces together to form Bottom of bag.

Cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size as the pieces and iron on to the following pieces:
Bag Front
Bag Back
2 side panels
2 pockets (8×8) do NOT put fusible fleece on the pocket lining pieces.
Bottom of Bag

Make the outer pockets:

Baste a 8” piece of piping to the top pocket
Pin pocket lining piece to pocket right sides together

With fusible fleece facing up…stitch pocket to lining on the SAME stitching line you used to baste the piping on.

Turn right side out and press.

Place pocket on top of side panel. Match edges and baste pocket to side panel

Sew bag front to side panel
Sew same side panel to bag back
Sew 2nd side panel to bag back
Sew bag front to 2nd side panel
(photo shows bag front, 1 side panel and bag back)

PRESS seams so that you get crisp edges.

You will get something that looks like this:

Next sew bag bottom on. Sew 2 long sides first stopping ¼” from the edges. Then sew short sides.

This will complete the outside of the bag.

Set aside

Next inside pockets.
Repeat the following steps for inside pockets for front & back of bag

Sew 3 pocket pieces together. (uncut layer pieces)
Press seams
Sew 3 pocket lining pieces together
Press
(photo shows pocket lining side)

Sew inside pocket pieces to pocket lining pieces at top (right sides together)
Press seam open. Turn right side out.

Measuring down ½” from the top of the pocket sew a casing for elastic.
(photo shows pocket side)

Cut a piece of elastic 19.5”. Thread though casing. (Adjust elastic if necessary so that pocket lays flat when pinned to bag lining.) Stitch elastic securely at both sides.

Lay pocket onto bag lining

Match side seams centers and bottom.

Form a pleat in the bottom of each pocket so that the top and bottom are the same width

Baste bottom to hold pleats in place. Baste sides.

Making sure to back stitch several times, sew down each panel to divide pocket into 3 separate compartments.

Sew lining front to side lining

sew side lining to lining back
sew lining back to 2nd side lining
sew 2nd side lining to front lining
Press seams open very well.

Sew lining bottom into lining.

Make handles:

You will need 8 scraps of layer cake (these are the pieces you saved from cutting earlier). Each piece should be 2×10

Sew 2 pieces together at short seam. Do this so you have 4 pieces 2”x 19.75

Press seams open

Apply heavy weight fusible interfacing to 2 of the handle pieces.

Sew 1 handle piece (with out interfacing) to one with interfacing. Sewing along one long side. Press seam open. Press raw edge of handle piece under ¼” on both pieces.

Fold in half (wrong sides together) and top stitch down both of the long sides of the handles.

Assemble the bag

Cut a piece of fusible peltex to fit inside of the bottom of the of the bag.

Pin & sew handle to front and back of bag. Sew over handle several times since this is a “stressed” area of the bag. Lining them up with the seam of the 5” squares

Pin & sew ribbon (cut it long, you can trim it later) to front and back centers of bag

On BOTH bag lining piece and bag pieces press under top seam ¼”

Insert peltex into bottom of bag

Put bag lining into bag. Match top seams and pin well. If for some reason the seams do not match up… adjust the side seams so that they do.



Very SLOWLY and carefully… top stitch bag to bag lining. Being careful not to catch the handles or the ribbon in the seams.

Put your iron INSIDE the sewn bag. Iron the inside bottom of the bag to fuse the peltex to bag and bag lining.

Make the divider:

Measure the width of your bag. Mine was 17.5. Cut a piece of peltex 17.5×9.5.

Take your 4 matching LC pieces. Sew 2 pieces together forming divider front and and 2 pieces to form back.

Sew divider front piece to divider back (right sides together) piece along 3 sides. (leaving short side open). Press well.

Slide peltex into divider.

Fold raw edge of divider in. Press. Top stitch around all 4 sides of divider.

Place divider inside finished bag. By hand, whip stitch divider into place at the top and bottom corners.

Optional Changing pad: You have enough pieces left over so why not make one? 🙂

Cut 1 layer cake piece into 4 pieces, each 2.5 x 10

Sew to edges of 2 LC pieces.


Sew 2 pieces together and Press .

Laminate using iron on lamination sheets according to package directions.

Place laminated/pieced fabric on top of hand towel. Cut hand towel to size of laminated fabric.

Attach 2 loops of ¼” elastic to top of changing pad. Stitch down and back stitch… (these pop off easily if not stitched down properly)

Put right sides together and stitch changing pad to towel. Starting and stopping between elastic pieces. Turn inside out.
Press again (you will need the pressing piece from the lamination to be able to iron it- otherwise you will melt the laminate).

Whip stitch opening closed.

1 Diaper Bag

Little Girls Patchwork Skirt

Hi!!
I’m so excited to be a designer at Moda Bake shop, this is my first post! My name is Melissa & I love to think of new creative ways to use fabric. Check out my blog, the Polkadot Chair…www.polkadotchair.blogspot.com. Or my pattern shop fourteen may for more fun ideas!


1-2 Wonderland Charm Packs (depending on size, I used 1, that did not include the t-shirt applique)
1/2 yd matching fabric for waistband and ties
1/2 yd matching fabric for skirt band
1/2″ wide elastic

for optional t-shirt
2 black buttons for owl eyes
heat & bond lite
owl applique download at amazing mae
This will yield a skirt size 6-8, instructions below for changing sizes:
Cut from waistband fabric:
4 waist band pieces (1 waist band front, 1 back, 1 waistband lining front, 1 waistband lining back)
4″x 13″
2 tie pieces
5″ x 23″ (or width of your fabric 22-23″)
From Skirt band fabric cut
2 pieces:
5″ x 32.5″

From your charm pack, lay out a pattern of squares that you would like for the skirt front.

You will have 2 rows of 7 squares.Pin pieces togetherSew the 1st row of 7 squares together using a 1/4″ stitch- it is very important to keep all your seams the same. My machine has a setting for a 1/4″ stitch. Press seams open on row 1.
Repeat for row 2
Pin and sew row 1 to row 2.
Repeat for Skirt back
You will end up with 2 panels, 2 squares by 7.
Mark, with a fabric marker, the 2 edge squares. This is so you will know where your side seams are (this will be important when attaching the skirt to the waist band) Do NOT sew side seams yet.
With right sides together, attach skirt band to bottom of skirt. (skirt band will overlap skirt at this point) Sew with 1/4″ seam.
Press seams towards skirt band.
Sew side seams together.
Turn under bottom edge of skirt band 1/2″ and press.
Fold skirt band in half so that the pressed edge covers the seam of the skirt/skirt band. PIN in place from the RIGHT side of the skirt.Top stitch skirt band. Sew on skirt band about 1/8″ away from skirt bottom seamFold tie pieces in half length wise. Sew with 1/4″ seam. At the end sew and angle, so that the tie comes to a point.Trim. Turn right side out and press.
Repeat for tie #2Take waist band FRONT piece. Pin ties to it, 3/4″ down from the top. Baste in place.Attach waist band BACK to front, sew at side seams. Press open seams.
Sew waist band lining pieces together at side seams. Press open seams.
Sew waistband to waistband lining at TOP seam. Press open.Fold waist band at top seam. Press well. Come down 5/8″ from the top and sew a casing. Leaving a 1″ opening for the elastic.On skirt, run two rows of gathering stitches, starting and stopping at side seams. (it’s easier to gather a skirt in 2 pieces than one really long gathering stitch)Pin RIGHT side of skirt to RIGHT side of skirt band, matching side seams. Sew, being careful not to catch ties in the seams.
Turn skirt inside out. Measure elastic to size and thread though casing. sew elastic together and close casing.
Press under unfinished edge of waistband lining 1/2″. Pin to skirt (covering gathers). Whip stitch closed.
VOILA! Your finished!!
Sizing:
This is how I figured the sizing:
My daughters waist is 20″, normally for gathers you double the waist, but I did not want this skirt as full so I took 20″ x 1.75 = 35″, which is 7 charm squares.
Since she is small I thought 2 rows of squares would look best. If you are making a larger size, add a 3rd row of squares.
If making it smaller, just use less squares across (say 5 or 6 instead of 7)
For the waistband measurement I took her hip measurement.
For the ties I wanted to conserve fabric, so I cut the 1/2 the width of my fabric. They BARELY fit, I would make them longer if you have enough fabric.
Feel free to email me if you have any questions!
Thanks!!

1 skirt per charm pack.