Trifle Dish: Cherry Spools and Lady Fingers


 
To make LAYER 1, use fat eighths to create a two-color version. Two fat eighths will yield two blocks. Alternatively, use a variety of precuts to create a scrappy version.

For EACH Cherry Spool block, you will need:
Fabric 1/Spool:

  • (2) 2½” squares 
  • (2) 2″ x 8″ strips

Fabric 2/Leaves:

  • (6) 2½” squares

Fabric 3/Cherries:

  • (4) 2″ squares

Fabric 4/Background:

  • (8) 2½” squares
  • (2 ) 2″ x 8″ strips
  • (9) 2″ squares

You will need (6) 2½” x 11½” strips for sashing between blocks (Lady Fingers)

Finished block measures 11″ square

Tip: use a mix of low value prints for the background if desired

Suggested precuts for scrappy version: fat quarters, layer cake, charm pack

 
1. Create half square triangle (HST) units


  • Draw a line on the wrong side of each 2½” background square. 
  • Pair each 2½” background square with spool squares and leaf squares (a total of 8 pairs of background fabric + print), right sides together. 
  • Lining up the edge of your foot with the pencil line, sew a scant ¼” seam on each side of the line. 
  • Cut on the pencil line and press to the darker fabric. 
  • Square up each HST to 2″.

  Make 12 sets of background/leaves HSTs and 4 sets of background/spool HSTs per block.

2. Lay out your block pieces for the center as shown.

Piece together in rows.

Add background side strips and spool top and bottom. Press well.

3. Repeat step 2 to make 4 more blocks (5 total).

4. Join 5 blocks and 6 lady fingers together to form Layer 1.


1 row, measuring 64″ x 11″

Block design by Robin Nelson of {www.craftsisters.com}

Floral Gatherings Quilt



1 – Floral Gatherings Layer Cake
3 yards Bella Solids – Off White (for stars, sashing, borders)
5/8 yard Bella Solids – off white  (binding)
5 yards Floral Gatherings – cheddar  (backing)
 
From the Bella Solid Off White : 
Cut 6 – 10″ x width of fabric strips.
Subcut 4 of the strips into 10″ squares.
You will need : 16 – 10″ squares
Subcut the remaining 2 strips into 5″ x width of fabric and then subcut those strips into 5″ squares.  You will have 8 from each 5″ strip.  You will need 32 – 5″ squares.
Cut 19 – 2½” x width of fabric strips.
Separate into two sections – 8 for the binding and 11 for the sashing and borders. 
P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }

From the Floral Gatherings Layer Cake :
Divide 40 of the 10″ squares in this manner:
You will need 8 – 10″ squares for the four patches – subcut into 5″ squares.
You will need 16 – 10″ squares for the star points.
You will need 16 – 10″ squares for the star centers.

For the four patch blocks :
layout two 5″ cream tone and two 5″ whites in four patch pattern
sew top two together and sew bottom two together, press towards cream tone squares
sew top two to the bottom two, press open, should measure 9½” x 9½”
For the star points : 
draw diagonal line on the back of each white square, with right sides together – sew 1/4″ from line, trim blocks along line
press open, should measure 9½”
For the star centers :
layout four 10″ squares
sew top two and bottom two together – press seams open
sew top row and bottom row together, 
being careful to align pressed seams, then press open
 square to 18½” square

make four

layout star block as you would like it sewn
sew both star point sides to center four patch, press
sew four remaining points to smaller four patch blocks, press
sew top to center and then sew bottom to center, press
ta-da!  36½” square
 now make three more
sew the 11 – 2½” sashing/border strips end to end, press
subcut :
2 – 2½” x 36½” strips
3 – 2½” x 74½” strips
2 – 2½” x 78½” strips

sew 2 – 2½” x 36½” sashing between two top blocks and two bottom blocks, press
sew 1 – 2½” x 74½”sashing between top and bottom sections, press
sew 1 – 2½” x 74½” border to the top and 1 – 2½” x 74½” to the bottom, press.  sew 1 – 2½” x 78½” border to the left side and 1 – 2½” x 78½” border to the right, press.
For the backing : cut the 5 yards of fabric in half, selvage to selvage.  You will have 2 – 2½ yards x width of fabric pieces.  Sew them right sides together creating a square.  It should roughly measure 87″ by 90″.P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }
Quilt and bind as desired.
Long arm quilting by Kathy Olkowski.

 
78½” x 78½” quilt 

Trish Poolson
{notesofsincerity.blogspot.com}

Bartholo-meow’s Reef Boxes Quilt

Hi, my name is Trish and I blog over at notes of sincerity. Today I have a cute and simple quilt for you, made with Bartholo-meow’s Reef by Tim and Beck.


1 layer cake Bartholo-meow’s Reef (for blocks)
1/2 yard Bartholo-meow’s Reef Coral Glacie (for binding)
1.25 yards Bartholo-meow’s Reef Wave Water (for sashing and borders)
1/8 yard Bartholo-meow’s Reef Deep Water (for 30 corner stones)
4 yards Bartholo-meow’s Reef Deep Water (for backing)

cutting instructions
for corner stones : 
cut two strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric
subcut into 30 – 1.5″ squares
for sashing :
cut 18 strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric
subcut each strip into 9″ strips you need 71
for borders :
cut 7 strips measuring 1.5″ x width of fabric

for binding :
cut 7 strips measuring 2.5″ x width of fabric  
for backing : 
cut the four yards in half (selvage to selvage)
for blocks :
choose 2 layer cake squares

sewing instructions for blocks :

each square will be cut into fourths (you will have 4-5″ squares)

of those 4 squares, pull one aside, cut one of the squares into fourths (you will have 4-2.5″ squares), cut the last two square in half horizontally (you will have 4-5″x 2.5″ strips)

this is how you will layout your two blocks
sew rows and press to the darker print, then sew those rows together nestling the seams, and press flat
repeat for all remaining blocks 
once you have completed making all the blocks, lay them out in 6 blocks by 7 block rows
sewing instructions for sashing :
sew sashing strips on the right hand side of all the blocks other than the far right exterior blocks – the border fabric will later be sewn there
sew blocks together, into rows
sew sashing and corner stones for center horizontal sashing, press towards corner stones
nestle and pin horizontal sashing to rows, sew
sew rows together and press
sewing instructions for borders : 
1.  cut one 1.5″ x width of fabric strip in half, sew each half end to end with a 1.5″ strip – you will now have two 1.5″ strips – sew each strip to the top and bottom of the quilt top, trim excess and press open
2.  sew remaining 1.5″ x width of fabric strips into two longer strips – sew each strip on either side of the quilt top, trim excess and press open
quilt and bind
 long arm quilting by Kathy Olkowski
 

58″ x 68″ throw quilt

Trish Poolson
{www.notesofsincerity.blogspot.com}

Quilt As You Go Improv Pillows



Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you a creative weekend project. This pillow uses a modern Quilt as you Go technique which will be featured in my upcoming book, Quilt-As-You-Go Made Modern, to be released this Fall. I’m so excited to share this technique with you all!
 
The Quilt as you Go technique is very creative as it doesn’t follow a precise pattern. Rather, it takes on more of a improvisational style of piecing and quilting. For updates on my latest quilting endeavors, check out my Quilting in the Rain Facebook page and blog. You can also find me on Instagram. Thanks so much for stopping by and enjoy the tutorial!


Please Note – For this pillow I used leftover Layer Cake squares from the April Showers Collection by Bonnie and Camille. Leftover fat quarter scraps will work too. For the solid borders, I used Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it). For the back of the pillow, I used Moda’s Twill (home decor weight), Nautical Ticking Stripes in Red.

For Pillow No.1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

  • 1 layer cake square (or a 10″ square cut from a fat quarter) 
  • 1/4 yard border fabric
  • 3/8 yard Backing
  • 15.5″ x 15.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
  • pillow insert

 For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):

  • 6 layer cake squares for variety (or six different fat quarter prints)
  • 1/4 yard border fabric
  • 3/8 yard backing  
  • 17.5″ x 13.5″ batting square (needle-punched batting)
  • pillow insert 


    For Pillow No. 1 (14″ x 14″ pillow cover):

    1.  Take a 10″ square and place it in the center of the batting. Place a few pins to help keep it down. Then, quilt it directly to the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

    I did free-motion quilting with some simple loopy-loops. If you’ve never free-motion quilted before, now is a good time to try it out as it’s easier to do it on a smaller, more manageable block.

     2. From your border fabric, cut two 3.5″ strips along the length. Take a strip and trim it with fabric scissors so it’s the same length as the side of the square. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    3. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. As shown below, make sure your stitch starts and ends on the batting.

    4. Take the strip and trim it with fabric scissors so that it measures the length of the square and strip that you just pieced together, as shown below. With right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance.

    5. Press open, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. There will be some extra fabric hanging over the batting. 

    6. Repeat the previous steps until there is border fabric surrounding all four sides of the square. You are essentially piecing fabric in a log-cabin style method, but quilting it directly onto the batting as you go.
    When you are finished, the entire batting will be covered and will look similar to this.
    The back will look similar to this:
    Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 14.5″x14.5″.
    7. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x14.5″ rectangles. Along the length,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place to create a pretty seam. Repeat on the other rectangle as well. 
    With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.
    Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow. Lastly, trim the corners to get rid of bulk fabric, and then turn right side out.
    Insert the pillow and there you have it! 🙂

     
    For Pillow No.2 (16″ x 12″ pillow cover):
    Please note: For this pillow, the same exact technique that was described above (for pillow No.1) was used, except with smaller pieces of fabric. The technique I explained from the first pillow will give you the basic understanding you need to complete this next pillow. That being said, I will not list step-by-step instructions.  Rather, I have listed the order in which the strips should be pieced. Enjoy!
    1. From your fabric, cut one 3″ square and a couple 2″ strips from each print (you will trim these strips as needed).
    2. Start by placing the 3″ square in the center of the batting, and then quilt it. Next, add strips making sure to trim them with fabric scissors to the correct size. Add the strips in the following order, using the quilt as you go method previously described. For this pillow, I quilted straight lines that ran parallel to all of the seams. 
    Tip! Fabric can shift while stitching on the batting. Correct for this by keeping the strips aligned and ‘square’ them as necessary. The seams of each successive piece should be at a 90° angle to the previous quilted piece. 
    Also, please note that your pieces will shift around slightly and the batting will stretch a little – this is completely normal. So don’t expect yours to look as straight as the illustration above. =)
    3. From your border fabric, cut one 5-6″ wide strip along the length. With right sides facing together, place the strip along the length of the patchwork as shown below. Overlap the strip with the patchwork as needed to straighten it out, and as mentioned in the “Tip!” above. Sew.
    4. Press the strip down, and then quilt lines that run parallel to the seam. Repeat for the top so that the entire batting is covered.
    5. Flip the block over so the batting side is facing you. Trim the excess fabric sticking out side of the batting. Then, flip it over so the patchwork is facing you and trim approximately 1/4″- 1/2″ from all four sides so that your block measures 16.5″x12.5″.
    6. Next, create an envelope closure for the backing. From your backing fabric, cut two 11″x12.5″ rectangles. Repeat step 7 from Pillow No.1 to create the envelope closure and to finish your pillow. 
    And that’s it! Quilt as you Go is a fun and different way to quilt. I hope you enjoyed learning this new improvisational technique! Now that you know the concept, you can get really creative with all the other fun Quilt as you Go pillow designs you can think up! 
    (Above: Paige modeling a Quilt as you Go strip quilt using the Scrumptious collection by Bonnie and Camille).
    Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com for more Quilt as you Go projects. You can also find me on Facebook and Instagram.
    Let your creativity rain!
    xoxo
    -jera brandvig

    Quilting Bee Sampler Quilt



    Hello again, I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts and it is an honor for me to be with you today at Moda Bake Shop.  As a quilter, I love big modern prints and Kate Spain’s newest fabric line, Daydreams.  It is full of awesome fabrics.  These prints are so beautiful, they are inspiring.  These fabrics are so bright and fun that they leave me daydreaming about the beach–which is great since there is a foot of snow outside!  I also enjoy using traditional quilt blocks made from newer techniques, such as those utilized when sewing with pre-cut fabrics.  I hope you enjoy this quilting bee sampler as it is a traditional style quilt in modern fabrics.  

    For this sampler, we will need:

    • 1 Layer Cake (or two charm square packages) of your favorite print (I’m using Daydreams by Kate Spain)
    • 2 white Bella solids charm square packages
    • 1 1/4 yards for the setting triangles (I’m using Daydreams Cadence Stream)
    • 2  yards for the sashing strips and inner ease border (I’m using Daydreams Full Circle Rose)
    • 2 1/2  yards for the outer border (I’m using Daydreams Reflection Rose)
    • 1 yard for the binding (I’m using Daydreams Arcadia Ink)

    GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:  As always, please read through all the instructions prior to beginning any project.   Unless otherwise indicated, all seam allowances are 1/4 inch.  I recommend testing that your quilting foot and pressing is actually creating a 1/4 inch seam allowance prior to beginning this project and making any necessary adjustments.  This will help the pieced border fit the patchwork more readily.   Press all seams in the direction of least bulk unless otherwise indicated.  Also, trim all dog-ears on your half-square triangles (HSTs) as this will help intersecting points lie flat.   And last, but not least, to ensure that your points do not get blunted when they are attached to sashing and borders, always sew with the HSTs on top. face-down with right sides of fabrics together and away from the feed dogs.  This way you can see the top point of your piecing.

    CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS:

    • Cut your layer cake in half to yield a 5 inch strip.  Reserve one half for another project and cut the other half into two sets of 5-inch squares.
    • Cut border fabrics along the lengthwise grain:
      • White outside border: cut four, 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long
      • Pink outside border: cut four, 7 1/2 inches wide by 84 inches long.
    • Cut teal setting triangles to ensure the bias edge goes against the piecing and not the outer pieced edge:
      •  Cut one large square measuring 24 inches.  Cut these in half diagonally, and then again to yield 4 triangles measuring 16 1/2 inches tall by 24 inches long.  These are the setting triangles.
      • Cut two triangles measuring 12 1/2 inches square.  Cut these in half diagonally, each square yielding two triangles.  Yield: 4 total squares for the outside corners of the setting.
    • Cut sashing strips along lengthwise grain:
      • Cut eight strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 16 1/2 inches long.
      • Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 20 1/2 inches long.
      • Cut two strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 58 1/2 inches long.   Excess length will be trimmed away later.

    PIECING THE BLOCKS: The finished block size is 16 1/2 inches square.

    Note: All of the blocks use half-square triangle units (HSTs) in different orientations.  However, some of the blocks use a different number of them. I recommend sewing the HTSs for each individual block as you go, not chain piecing all the HSTs at once. This will help with the color coordination as well as keeping you from sewing HSTs that are not needed.

     Use this layout diagram to create the Mosaic Tile block.  Sort 8 blue charm squares and 8 white squares to create this block

    To create the half-square triangle units (this technique is used to create all HSTs throughout):

    • Draw a diagonal line down the center of all of the white Bella solids charm squares. 
    • Layer one 5-inch charm square on top of your 5-inch  charm square print.
    • Sew down both sides.

    • Cut these in half on the drawn line.

    • Press all squares open and toward the print fabric.

    • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  I like to have the stronger prints creating the center diamond, but you can play around and make it how you like it.

    Here’s the sewn block:

    Use this layout diagram to create the Whirlpool, also known as a Windblown block.  Sort 8 red and pink charm squares and 8 white charm squares.

    To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.

    • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  As the charm square is cut in half diagonally, it yields two identical HST units.  These paired end to end create a diamond.
    • When I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
    • Now add the outside flying geese units with points going in.

    • And..the finished block:

    Use this layout diagram to create the Yankee Puzzle block.  Sort 8 yellow and orange charm squares and 8 white squares for this block.

    • To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.
    •  As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
    •  Now add the rest of the pieces.

    • And…the finished block:

    Use this layout diagram to create the Clay’s Choice block.  Set aside 4 green charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more green squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

    • As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.  Then add the remaining pieces.

    • And the finished block:


     Use this layout diagram to create the Flying X block.  Set aside 4  print charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more multi-colored charm squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

    • In this block, I layout the pinwheel center first, then add the remaining pieces.

    For all blocks: Trim the blocks to a 16 1/2 inch square.

     PIECING THE CENTER:

    • Add the sashing lattice to the blocks.
      • Note: Sashing will over-hang the setting triangles to be put in later and this excess will be trimmed away and squared in the final squaring of the patchwork center. (This photo shows it being trimmed away at a later step.  I just thought I’d give you a “heads-up” now so you don’t worry when you see the over-hang.)
    Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the end blocks.
    1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X and blocks.
    2.  Sew a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to one side of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X blocks.
    Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the center blocks.
        1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Mosaic Tile block.
        2. Sew the Whirlpool block to one side of the Mosaic Tile block and the Clay’s Choice to the other side of the Mosaic Tile block.  Add the two 2 1/2 inch by 58 inch strips to this pieced unit.  Trim away excess to fit the length.
        3.  Finish the outside edges by adding a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to the remaining edge of the Whirlpool and Clay’s Choice blocks.

      ADD THE SETTING TRIANGLES

      1. Sew the 16 1/2 inch by 24 inch triangles to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Clay’s Choice block.
      2. When this strip is finished, sew these two units to the center patchwork blocks.  Do not worry that the sashing sticks out of the setting triangles.  It is part of the design and will be trimmed away later.
      3. Add the four outer 12 1/2 inch triangles to the remaining four corners.
      Piecing Diagram

      ADD BORDERS:

      • Sew the HST border using the method shown in the Mosaic Tile block section.
      • Sew left and right hand side borders, both consisting of 12 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
      • Sew the top and bottom borders, both consisting of 14 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
      Sawtooth border diagram.  This diagram shows 16 pieces, but you only need 14.

        TO EASE IN THE HST BORDER:

        • Measure the ironed finished length of the 12-piece HST border.  It should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
        • Measure your finished patchwork center, it too should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
          • Note: Often there are variations in piecing and pressing that could get these two to differ.  If your quilt top does not measure up, square the center patchwork section to measure the same as your 12-piece HST border.  (Ah-ha!  So this is where we trim off the sashing overhang!)
            • Iron the quilt top folded in half twice to create creases showing the panel’s center.  Pin-match the center of the HST border with these creases and pin from the center out.  Sew on the HST units border.
            • Sew on the outer borders starting with the 2 1/2 inch border, then add the 7 inch border.
            • Quilt as desired!
            Assembly diagram with borders.

            Finished quilt top measures 81 inches square.

            Note: If you choose to make this project omitting the saw-tooth border, you will only need one 42-piece print charm pack and one 42-piece Bella solids charm pack.

            Here is an alternate colorway using the modern gray back-grounds instead of the white.  Also this has a saw-tooth border variation where all the HSTs face the same direction.  I like it too!

            Here are some photos of how I quilted the top.  I just fell in love with this fabric and had to do some crazy free-motion quilting on it.  I hope you like the ideas.

            Shannon Mower
            {www.moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com}

            Midnight Stars Quilt


            Hi All! I’m Heather and I’m eager to share this tutorial with you! I’m a big fan of Basic Grey. When I heard that they were coming out with Little Black Dress 2, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with this beautiful fabric.  Midnight Stars is 4 super sized stars, combined to make a nice sized lap quilt. 

            2 Layer Cakes of Little Black Dress 2
            5/8 yards black print accent
            5/8 yards black dot on cream binding

            4 yards backing.fabric
            Batting, at least 80″x 80″

            Start by taking your layer cakes and separating them into dark and light piles. For this quilt, we’ll need 32 of the darkest prints and 32 of the lightest prints. Reserve the more “medium” prints for the backing. In this quilt, I wanted a little more black in the quilt, so I cut two additional 10” squares from the black accent fabric.
            Tip if you’d like to make this quilt with another fabric line, use one layer cake and choose 36 layers for the stars. Take 2 ¾ yards background fabric and cut into 36 10” squares. 
            Take all 32 dark squares and cut in half on the diagonal. Take remaining 18 light squares and cut in half on the diagonal.

            Choose 14 Light squares for the four corners of each star. Where the four stars come together in the center, you’ll only use 2 squares, cut in half. Lay these all out on your design wall (or, design floor in this case!) 
            Using the finished quilt as your guide lay out your quilt top. Take your time, making sure to balance light and dark, until you’re happy with your layout. For the center square within a square, cut 4 grey layers in half on the diagonal and arrange as shown. I think it took me almost as much time to arrange the top as it did to sew it!

            Here’s how one quarter of the quilt should look before it’s sewn. (This block is actually made from leftovers from the layer cakes. It will become part of the quilt back.)
            Now to sew!
            Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout. It doesn’t need to be a perfect 1/4 inch, but a consistent seam allowance will give you great results!

            Take each of your half square triangle pairs, and sew together on the diagonal. This is a long bias edge, so handle carefully. Press seams to one side, to the dark when possible. I usually will sew 4 of these at a time, chain stitching. 

            Trim each hst unit to 9.5” Use the diagonal line on your ruler to trim each block accurately. After sewing, pressing and trimming, I return the blocks to my design wall (or design floor in this case!) I find that if I do more than 4, there’s a good chance things will get turned around. We don’t want that!
            Trim all of the 10″ corner layer cake squares down to 9.5″.
            Your can piece this in one of two ways: you can piece it as four giant blocks, or you can go row by row.
            For our sample, I sewed row by row.  Sew column 2 to column 1, chain stitching. After sewing these, I returned them to the design floor (again, I really don’t want to mess up the order!) Continue to sew column 4 to 3, 6 to 5 and 8 to 7. Continue to sew until all the rows are sewn together. Once all the rows are sewn, to keep things in order, I take a pin and place it in the top left corner of each row. I alternate which way I place the pin, so I know which way to press the seams. For the odd rows, press one way. Press the evens in the opposite direction. I do pin where the blocks line up. Where the star points meet, go slowly, pin, pin, pin and take your time. Try not to cut off any points. Are mine perfect? Not all of them, but most of them are close enough.
            If you prefer, you can sew each large block first, then sew the four blocks together. 
            Sew your blocks together in rows. Again, alternate the direction in which you press the rows, so that you’ll have nice interlocking seams when you sew the rows together to complete the four blocks. 
            Sew your four large star blocks together.
            Hey, guess what? You finished the top! My dog, Chase thinks you’re awesome!

            Want to make a fancy backing to go with?
            Take the remaining 10 squares leftover from the top. I cut 4 10” squares from my black accent fabric, then chose 4 matching black dot/tan squares and 8 grey squares. Lay them out as above, and sew the block.
            From you backing fabric, cut one piece of fabric 36.5” x width of fabric. (Your star should measure 36.5”. If your star measures differently, use that measurement.) Cut this into two pieces. I didn’t want my star to be exactly centered, so I cut at approximately 30”, making two pieces: 36.5″ x 30″ and 36.5″ x 12″. Sew these pieces to each side of your star.  From remaining backing fabric, cut two pieces 45” x width of fabric. Remove selvages, and sew these pieces together, to create one piece of fabric approximately 45” x 82″. Cut this unit into two pieces along the long length. Again, I didn’t want mine centered, so mine are about 30” x 82” and 15” x 82”. Sew the 30” piece to the top of the star unit, and the 15” piece to the bottom of the star unit.  Your backing is finished!

            Layer your quilt top and back with batting. Baste and quilt as desired. Thanks to my friend Maria O’Haver for doing such a beautiful job on the quilting!
            Cut binding fabric into 8 pieces 2.5” x width of fabric. Join on the diagonal to create double fold binding. Attach to top of quilt. Hand sew to back of quilt.

            My favorite quilt photo shoot location!
            Woo, woo! A new quilt!

            You did it! 
            Thanks for following along with me. I’d love for you to stop by my blog and say “hi”!

            1 Midnight Stars Quilt, 72″x 72″


            Heather Kojan

            Table Top Turkey Trot

            Hello! Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and a Joyous New Year to you! Things have been quiet recently at my online home at Sewing by Moonlight, but I hope you will come visit anyway.

            I had hoped to have this project ready to post for you by Thanksgiving, but it seems my reality does not allow for a one week project turn around time. So, here we are, just in time for Christmas, a Thanksgiving table runner.

            The turkey is ready. She even wore her Santa hat for the festivities!

            1 Layer cake – I used Floral Gatherings by Primitive Gatherings for Moda
            1 1/4 yards backing fabric
            1/2 yard of coordinating fabric for binding
            Fusible web for appliqué
            20″x47″ piece of battting
            Template for dresden feathers and turkey body

            Click {here} to dowload dresden feather and turkey body templates. The templates are also available in the Printer Friendly Version at the end of the post.

            Embroidery floss for turkey eyes and beak, and embroidery needle

            1. Determine the layout of your table runner. 
            Alternate placing two squares together (these will be the maple leaf blocks) with single squares (these will be the background color for your dresden turkeys. This table runner has 5 turkey dresdens and 5 maples leaves, but you could easily make it longer or shorter.

            2. Cut the fabrics for your maple leaf blocks.
            Stack the two fabrics for the maple leaf block together, and cut as shown in the diagram below. Following this cutting diagram will ensure that you maximize the fabric in each 10-inch square.

            2a. Begin by cutting a 3.5 inch strip from one side. Sub-cut two 3.5 inch squares from this strip. Save the remaining 3.5 x 3 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. 

            2b. From the remaining 6.5 x 10 inch piece, cut across the width 5.5 inches from the edge. Sub-cut this piece into a 5.5 inch square and a 1 x 5.5 inch strip.

            2c. Finally, cut one additional 3.5 inch square from the last piece of the layer cake square. Save the leftover 3 x 4.5 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. Add the final 3.5 x 1 inch strip to your scrap bin.

            3. Create the maple leaf block. 
            Use the pieces you just cut for the maple leaf block.

            3a. Place the two 5.5 inch squares right sides together. Sew 1/4 inch from the edge all the way around the perimeter. Cut the square apart along both diagonals into four sections. Iron each piece open and trim the half square triangles to 3.5 inches.

            3b. Cut one of the 3.5 inch squares of the leaf background fabric in half along the diagonal. Sew the 1 x 5.5 inch strip of leaf foreground fabric into this piece for the leaf stem.

            3c. Arrange the block units into a maple leaf shape. Sew the block together and trim to 9.5 inches.

            4. Create the dresden feathers
            Using the template you downloaded above (under Ingredients), cut out the dresden pieces. Each turkey will require 12 dresden feathers. Since we have 5 turkeys in this table runner, I needed 60 dresden pieces. Use the unused pieces you saved from cutting out the leaves as well as additional layer cake squares.

            4a. Fold each dresden piece length-wise and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge of longer width (not the longest side, that’s the length. Rather the longer of the two shorter sides. Clear as mud? See below.) This is an excellent opportunity for chain piecing.

            4b. Trim the corner of each piece, flip the stitched side toward the inside to create a point and iron the piece flat so the point is centered.

            4c. Sew 12 dresden pieces into a partial circle. Press the two raw edges 1/4 inch in to the wrong side.

            4d. Trim the background square for the turkey to 9.5 inches. Fold in half and press. Open the square, fold in half the other direction and press again.

            4e. Align your partial dresden circle so it is centered horizontally on the background square and two dresden pieces on each side fall below the horizontal center line. Pin the dresden in place and edge stitch all the way around.

            5. Add a turkey body appliqué to your dresden feathers. 
            Using the template, create an appliqué body for each turkey. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your fusible web and arrange the body so the head is centered and the body covers the raw edges at the center of your feathers dresden.

            Use a tight zigzag stitch around the turkey body, or use another appliqué method of your choice.

            If desired, add features (eyes, beak) to your turkey faces with embroidery floss or your sewing machine.

            6. Arrange your maple leaf and turkey blocks in an alternating pattern. Stitch together. 

            7. Use 10 of the remaining layer cake squares to create a backing for your table runner. 
            Layer the runner top, batting, and backing together. Quilt and bind as desired.

            One autumn appropriate table runner, made up of ten 9-inch finished maple leaf and dresden turkey blocks, measuring 18 x 45 inches.

            Em Komiskey
            {sewingbymoonlight.com}