Easy Hexagon Pillow

Designed by Karen O’Connor of www.redroosterquilts.com

 2 – Aspen Frost Mini Charm Packs or 68 – 2 1/2″ squares
1/4 yard Grunge for border
1/2 yard for backing
1 3/4 yards red
1 3/8″ rick rack
1 – 14″ pillow form 1 ruler with 60 degree angle lines


Cut each 2 1/2″ square in half.

Place your ruler with the 60 degree angle like this  and cut:

Place ruler with the 60 degree angle on the other side like this and cut:

Cut all of the pieces so they look like this:

Arrange pieces like this:

Arrange the pieces as desired with 9 in a row and 7 rows of complete hexagons.

Sew the pieces into rows.  

Press each rows seams the opposite way.

Sew the rows together.

Square up to 11 1/2″.

Cut 2 – 2 1/2″ strips by WOF.  Cut into 2 – 2 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ and 2 – 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″.  Sew the 11 1/2″ pieces on first to two opposite sides.  Then sew the 14 1/2″ pieces to the other sides.  I did not quilt this pillow but you certainly could if you would like.

To make the back for the pillow.  Cut a strip 14 1/2″ wide.  Make 2 – 14 1/2″ x 20″ rectangles.  Press the rectangles in half so they are 14 1/2″ x 10″. 

Place the hexagon quilt top on your table right side up.  Place the back pieces on the top aligning the raw edges to the raw edges on each side of the pillow top.  The folded edges will overlap. 

Stitch 1/4″ around the pillow.  At the corners, use a spool of thread and trace around it to make your corners rounded.  It makes sewing the rick rack on much easier to go around the corners.

Iron your rick rack in half.  Place the folded edge along the seam line and hand stitch in place. 

Stuff you pillow form inside the opening and ENJOY!

Makes 1 – 14″ pillow

This is my second Moda Bake Shop project.  I hope you enjoy this one!  You can purchase a kit from our web site at www.redroosterquilts.com for $25.

Karen O’Conner
{www.redroosterquilts.com }

Red Rooster Quilts
48 Corbins Mill Dr.
Dublin, OH  43017

Owl Pocket Pillow

Hello again my dear friends!! I know it’s been a while since I have posted here but I am back and I am very excited to bring you this adorable little project!! If you don’t know me, I am KarrieLyne Winters and I am owner/designer of Freckled Whimsy. I’d love it if you stopped by to say hello! 🙂

Are you ready to make oodles and oodles of these pocket owls??!! They are a bit addicting… so there you have your warning! Heehee!

Ok, on to fabrics… For my tutorial I used Sweet Serenade by Basic Grey.  I would also encourage you to pilfer through your scraps and come up with some lovely combinations, such as maybe a quilt as you go version for the pocket. I think that’d be super cute!

Grab those fabrics and let’s make some owls!

1/2 yard cuts for the body
1 Fat quarter for the front pocket
1 Fat quarter for the back pocket
Scraps for the wings, eyes, and nose
Iron on adhesive that is paper backed, such as Heat’n Bond for face pieces
Your favorite craft stuffing

**Light to Medium weight fusible interfacing ( 3 yards) ** — This is optional. If you are making these for kids who will bury them in the sand box or use them for pillow fights, I suggest using this as a stabilizer to help support the cotton fabric.  If you are only using them for decoration, you will not need the stabilizer. A good Medium weight is Pellon 93TD.

1.  Print out the PDF that has the templates.  Be sure not to reduce the size. Print at 100% and check your 1″ square against a ruler to ensure its truly 1″.  If it is not, check your printer settings.

2. Pages 1-4 is the body of the owl. Cut out each piece and tape together making sure to match up outer edges. Don’t worry if inner lines don’t line up right on.

3.  Using the 1/2 yard cut, keep wrong sides together and lay the body template on the fabric. Pin around the edges and using a rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the pattern.  Unpin. You will have a front piece and a back piece.  Set aside.

4.  If you are using interfacing, repeat step 3.  You will then need to trim 1/2″ away from the edge all the way around. If you don’t, your edges will not fray. Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the body pieces following the manufacturers instructions. Be sure to center the interfacing before ironing it down.

5.  Next, cut out and tape the front pocket and back pocket pieces together.

6.  For each pocket you will need a fat quarter.  Take each fat quarter and fold it in half, wrong sides together and press. Lay the pocket templates on the fabric lining up the fold marks on the template with the fold on the fabric.  Pin in place and cut around sides. Do NOT cut the fold and keep the pocket folded.

7.  Repeat for interfacing if you are using it.  Make sure you trim 1/2″ around this piece too, only don’t  cut the fold. Center on the wrong side of the fabric of each pocket, iron down per manufactures instructions.

8.  Cut out the wing template and cut from fabric. I used a different fabric for each wing.  Feel free to do this or use the same fabric.

9.  Take one owl body piece and lay the front pocket on top lining up the edges.  Lay the wings down, also matching up the edges. They will match up, just move along the edge until it lines up. Pin all 3 pieces in place.

10.  Sew 1/2″ around the edge of each wing going through all layers (wing, pocket, owl body).

11.  Cut out face pieces. Trace both eye pieces, two of each, and beak on the paper side of the heat’n bond. Cut out each piece. Do NOT remove paper backing yet. Using the manufacturers instructions, iron the pieces to the fabrics you chose on the WRONG side. Let sit to cool. Cut around pieces to remove excess fabric.  Remove paper backing.

12.  Lay the beak on the front owl piece that has the pocket sewn on.  If you want it centered, fold the body in half to create a guide. Unfold and center beak on this fold mark. Make sure not to put it too close to the top of the head.  You need to leave room to sew the edges at a 1/2″ plus room for rounding edges after stuffing is put in. Use my photo as a general guide. Once you have it where you want it, press in place to activate the glue. Zig zag, or use another decorative stitch, around the edge of the beak. 

13.  Repeat for the “whites” of the eyes using steps in #12 and then for the “pupils” of the eyes.  Experiment here before ironing down.  Change the placement of the pupils for different emotions. 🙂

14.  Take the back owl body piece and the back pocket.  Line up the edges and pin in place along the top and center. Keep pins at least 1″ away from all outer edges.

15.  Lay the back owl body WRONG side up, then lay the front owl body RIGHT side up and pin all layers together.

16.  Starting at the left wing where the stitching begins, 1/2″ seam allowance, take a few stitches, backstitch, and continue sewing around the edge of the owl body keeping a 1/2″ seam allowance. Stop and backstitch when you get to the bottom of the opposite wing.  This leaves the bottom open to allow for stuffing.

17.  Remove all pins and stuff.

18.  Following the same 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch the bottom closed, backstitching at the beginning and end.

19.  Maneuver and squish the owl to distribute the stuffing to your liking.

20.  Here comes the fun part.  Making him scruffy! You can get this look multiple ways. Have your kids throw it around, sleep on it, hug it and squish it and call it George.  It will get there. You can also use a bristle brush to coax the fibers apart. My favorite thing to use is a wire bristle cat brush. Cleaned of course.  Those wires go to work like crazy and your owl will be scruffy in no time.  Just don’t brush too hard if you use one of the wire brushes so you don’t create holes.

One super adorable owl! 😉

Measures about 17″ high and about 13″ wide.

What are you waiting for??? Go make some owls!!

I would love to see the owls you make!! If you use Flickr, you can add the photo to my group HERE. Or just use the hashtag #FreckledWhimsy in any social media. You can also email them to me too!

Thank you so much for looking. I hope you like the project!

Much Love!!!

Karrie Winters

Peanut Butter and Kelli Quilt

Hey, it’s Kelli here from Jo’s Country Junction.  My youngest sister Kalissa and I have always been close.  When she was little, her nickname was Peanut as compared to all of us other kids, she was a peanut. Her nickname Peanut eventually evolved into Peanut Butter.  Because I was (and still am) her favorite sibling, we used to change the words of our favorite Barney song, Peanut Butter and Jelly, to Peanut Butter and Kelli.  After we completed this quilt, Kalissa expressed her love of it.  Because we used the Moda fabric line PB & J, we decided to name the quilt Peanut Butter and Kelli.

Stop over to our blog for a chance to win a jelly roll after you’re done reading the tutorial.
Follow along and you can make your own.
You’ll need a fat quarter bundle and some yardage.

1 fat quarter bundle PB & J
4 yards neutral print (We used ½ yard of each of the 8 neutral prints)
1 yard neutral (border)
1 yard dark print (binding)
2.5 yards dark solid (borders, block outline)
8 yards for backing

From each of 32 colored fat quarters, cut the following:
            -1- 3.75” x 21” strip (stars)
            -2- 3” x 21” strips (sashing)
            -2- 1.75” x 21” strips (sashing, pieced border)

From each of 8 lighter fat quarters, cut the following:
            -3- 3.75” strips (stars)

From neutral border cut 10- 3”strips

From binding fabric, cut 10- 2.5” strips

From dark solid, cut the following:
            -27- 1.5” strips (star outline)
            -6- 1.75” strips (pieced border)
            -10- 3” strips (border)
Making Star Blocks:

From 32- 3.75”  colored strips, cut 1- 5” rectangle and 2- 3.75” squares.  A total of 32- 5” rectangles and 64- 3.75” squares.

From 24- 3.75” lighter strips, cut 8 (1 of each print) into 4- 5” segments from each to yield a total on 24- 5” segments.  Using the remaining 16- 3.75” neutral strips, cut a total of 64- 3.75” squares.
1.  Pair 1 colored 5” segment with 1 neutral 5” segment.  With right sides together, use an easy angle ruler to cut 2 half square triangles.  Sew together using a ¼ inch seam.  Press to the colored print. Continue with all of hte 5″ segments.  It you haven’t used an Easy Angle ruler before, here’s a great tutorial Bonnie Hunter did showing you how.
2.  Assemble star by first sewing the dark square together into a four patch.

-Then sew the half square triangles together as shown.

-Sew two to the side of the four patch.

-Sew a light colored square to each end of the remaining start points.

-Then sew the final strip to the outside.

Outlining the Star:

3.  Using 11 of the 1.5” dark solid strips, cut a total of 32- 1.5” x 13.5” strips (3 from each strip).  Sew to opposite sides of each star block.  Press to the dark “frame.”


4.  Using the remaining 16 strips, cut 32- 1.5” x 15.5” rectangles.  Sew to opposite sides of the star.  Press to the dark “frame.”


Making the Sashing Blocks:

5.  From each neutral ½ yard cut, cut a total of 3- 3” strips.  Cut each in half (approximate) to yield a total of 24- 3” x approximately 21” strips.

6.  With right sides together, pair 1 colored 3” x 21” strip with 1 neutral 3” x 21” strip. 

7.  Using your easy angle ruler, cut a total of 10 half square triangles from each set.  Sew using a 1/4 “ seam.  Press to the colored half.  Make a total of 448 half square triangles.


8.  Using the colored 1.75” strips, cut a total of 576- 1.75” squares (448 for sashing blocks, 128 for pieced border).
9.  With right sides together, place a colored 1.75” square in the neutral half of the half square triangle.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim excess fabric and press to the colored square.  Repeat for each of the 448 sashing blocks.


10.  Sew the newly created units together as shown creating 16 blocks.


11.  Sew the blocks together in a 4 x 4 setting as shown.


Making the Pieced Borders:

12.  Subcut the 6- 1.75” strips into 64- 1.75” x 3” rectangles.

13.  Following the diagram below, using the remaining 128- 1.75” squares, place a colored square on one end of the dark rectangle with right sides together.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the colored square.  Trim excess and press to the colored square.  

14.  Repeat on opposite end.  Continue making 64 pieced border blocks.


15.  Using the remaining 1.75” colored strips and the remaining 1.75” dark strip, create 4- 1.75” half square triangles using your easy angle ruler.  Press to the dark.

16.  Sew 16 of the newly created border pieces together.  Make four sets of these border units.  Add a half square triangle to both ends of two of the strips.

17.  Add newly created border as shown.


18.  Next add the neutral, then dark borders.


19.  Quilt and bind using 2.5” binding strips.

Come on over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see how mom quilted our version.

Finished Quilt Size—93” x 93”

Jo Kramer

Bitty Bunting Quilt


Everyone loves a bunting quilt! I was inspired to make this quilt from the trimmings of another quilt. I was using a pattern that calls for dog ear corners from 2½” squares. The resulting triangles looked like pretty bunting flags to me (considering that the fabric was Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade, any excuse to not throw out even tiny scraps, right?) I kept them in a bin on my cutting table for a few days and the idea of using Moda Candy for tiny bunting flags popped into my head.

Moda Candy are perfect for this quilt since folding them in half allows you to create two-sided flags that look very cute waving about. There are lots of ways to attach the flags – use bias tape like I have or sew them all down first and add ric rac trim. I’ve also made bunting quilts with Perle cotton stitches standing in for the bias tape. Use what you have on hand. There is really no wrong way.

If you want to use a solid background instead of piecing the ombré background, simply start with a 1½ yard cut. I’ve also included a girly color option below.

43 Moda Candy pieces* (equivalent to 1 packages plus 1 more.  I used a mix of Lucy’s Crab Shack, PB&J, and Oh Deer!)
4 yd of ¼” double-fold bias tape in coordinating color
¼ yd dark blue (Royal | Bella Solid 9900-19)
¼ yd cobalt blue (Bright Sky | Bella Solid 9900-115)
¼ yd bright blue (Capri | Bella Solid 9900-225)
¼ yd gray blue (Glacier | Bella Solid 9900-207)
¼ yd light blue (Blue Raspberry | Bella Solid 9900-84)
¼ yd white (White Bleached | Bella Solid 9900-98)

Binding: 3/8 yd preferred print (I used Silver | 9900-183)

Backing: 3¼ yd (I used bits of leftover blues and Lush Uptown | 26047-22)

*NOTE: You may use more or fewer pieces of Moda Candy, depending on how you swag your bunting across the quilt.

Alternative Fabric Choices:
For a girl version of this quilt, try using Shocking Pink | 9900-223, Popsicle | 9900-143,  30s Pink | 9900-27, Amelia Pink | 9900-166, and Parfait Pink | 9900-248 instead of the blues listed above.

1. Piece ¼ yd strips from light to dark to create ombré background. Trim the selvedges before you sew or leave them on and trim all of them at once like I did. Press each seam from light to dark.

2. Layer up with your backing fabric and batting and quilt.

3. Square up quilted background and set aside.

4. Time to sew the bitty bunting! Set your stack of Moda Candy next to your sewing machine. Fold the first Candy square diagonally from corner to corner to create a triangle. Press or pin to make it easier to sew.

Top stitch around the sides of the triangle. You can chain piece but be careful not to stitch your Candy pieces together.

5. Place one bunting triangle between your bias tape with the fold  facing away from the triangle point.  Top stitch along the opposite edge of the bias tape to close the seam.

6. Pin bitty bunting to quilted background so that it drapes from edge to edge.

7. You can attach your bunting by top stitching long fold of the bias tape OR use an invisible stitch to tack it down (that’s what I did).

8. Trim any loose threads and bind as desired.

A simple, sweet, and modern baby gift! Measures approximately  43″ x 51″.

Lisa Calle

Picnic In The Shade Quilt

Hello, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so pleased to be back on the Moda Bake Shop with this latest project.  Picnic In The Shade has now become one of my favorite quilts.  I absolutely adore the PB&J line from Basic Grey (it’s not only pretty on the eyes, it feels amazing as well!)  The names and colors of the fabrics in this line are just too cute (Raspberry Jam, Bag of Chips, Fluffer Nutter, etc.)  My absolute favorite fabric from this line is the beautiful floral called Daisy Mae, it is gorgeous in every colorway.  So whether you decide to picnic on this quilt or put it on your bed, I hope you enjoy my latest design.

16 fat quarters (PB&J fat quarter bundle)
3 1/2 yards background fabric (PB&J Grunge – Picnic)
3/4 yard inner border fabric (PB&J Raspberry Jam – Fluffer Nutter)
1 1/2 yards outer border fabric (PB&J Bag of Chips – Tonal Picnic)
6 yards backing fabric (PB&J Daisy Mae – Picnic)

Block Cutting Instructions:
Select 16 fat quarters and from each one cut the following:

  • 5 – 5 1/2″ squares
  • 8 – 3 1/2″ squares
From background fabric cut the following:
  • 80 – 5 1/2″ squares
  • 128 – 3 1/2″ squares

Border cutting instructions:
Inner border – cut 8 strips 2 1/2″ by WOF
Outer border – cut 8 strips 5″ by WOF (Depending on the width of your fabric selection, you may need to cut 9 strips.  I was able to *JUST* make two strips pieced together work on each of the long sides of the quilt.)

Piecing Instructions:
Pair a background 5 1/2″ square with a print 5 1/2″ square (right sides together) and sew 1/4″ all the way around the squares as shown below.

Now you have 2 squares completely sewn together.  Line up your ruler on the diagonal from the top left corner to the bottom right corner and cut as shown below.

Without moving the fabric, line your ruler up diagonally from the top right to the bottom left corners and cut as shown.

Now you will have four separate “triangles”.

Open each of them up and press towards the background fabric to create four half square triangles (HST).

Repeat this step for all 80 5 1/2″ square sets.  This will result in a total of 320 half square triangles.
Now you need to square up and trim your half square triangles.  Using a small ruler, line up the 45 degree line with the diagonal line in your HST.  And trim/square up to be 3 1/2″.  Using this HST method, I almost always only had to trim off the dog ears from the seams, but you should check them all just to make sure they aren’t off before piecing them into the blocks.
Block layout:
Block A – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 A blocks (per print fabric) using 8 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST, 8 print 3 1/2″ squares and 2 background 3 1/2″ squares.  You will have a total of 32 A blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams towards the solid print squares.  Then sew the rows together and press toward the center row as shown below.

Block B – Using the photo below as a guide, create 2 B blocks (per print fabric) using 12 trimmed 3 1/2″ HST and 6 background 3 1/2″ squares.  You will have a total of 32 B blocks.

Piece each block row and press the seams in opposite directions with each row.  Then sew the rows together and press away from the center row as shown below.

Using 63 of your 64 blocks, lay them out in 9 rows of 7 blocks each, alternating between Block A and Block B as shown below.

Sew each row together pressing the seams in the odd numbered rows toward the right and the even numbered rows toward the left.  When sewing your rows together, you can either press all seams up, down or open depending on your preference.

Border Instructions:

  1. To determine the length of your side borders, measure the quilt from top to bottom in three locations (right side, midpoint and left side).  If they are not all the same measurement, then add those numbers together and divide by three to determine the appropriate length for your inner side border.  Using two 2 1/2″ strips of the inner border fabric, piece them together end to end and then trim to match the measurement you determined above.  Do this two times to create your two inner borders and attach them to the right and left sides of the quilt.
  2. Once you have pieced the inner side borders onto the quilt top, repeat the measuring instructions above to determine the appropriate measurements of the top and bottom borders (across the width of the quilt).  Once again, use two 2 1/2″ strips of inner border fabric sewn together end to end and then trimmed to the appropriate length per border.  Sew the top and bottom inner borders to the quilt.
  3. Following the same instructions as above to determine the new length of your outer border.  Using the PB&J line, I only needed two 5″ strips pieced together per side border.  Double check to make sure your fabric selection will be long enough.  If not, then use the 9th strip you created in the cutting instructions above, cut in half and attach one to each side border pieced strip and then trim to the correct measurement.
  4. Using the same method, piece and attach the top and bottom outer borders.

Backing Instructions:
Cut your backing fabric into two 3 yard pieces.  Then sew them together along the selvage edge far enough into the fabric so that the selvage won’t be seen once pieced.  You should end up with a pieced backing that measures approx. 84″ x 108″.

Layer your backing, batting and quilt top and quilt as desired.

One 75″ x 93″ quilt perfect for family picnics or your favorite bed.

Amanda Castor

{Material Girl Quilts}

Type Geek Pillows

Hi there! It’s Casey from Casey York Design and Studioloblog.wordpress.com, and I’m back to share the pattern for my Type Geek pillows. I am a self-professed type geek, myself, so I couldn’t resist coming up with a project for Typography month on the Moda Bake Shop. These pillows are a perfect way to showcase your favorite fabric collections and fonts. I had so much fun matching typefaces to fabric lines that I couldn’t stop with just one pillow and ended up making three. You can find the templates for these three appliqued words in the Printer Friendly version of this tutorial at the bottom of this page. However, it’s easy to create your own templates, and this project is even more fun if you make up your own fabric-font pairings. I hope you have as much fun with this project as I did, and that you’ll share your finished pillows with me through the Casey York Quilts flickr group!

Front patchwork and back appliqué: one jelly roll (samples show PB&J, Comma, and 2wenty Thr3e)
Pillow back: (1) fat quarter or ¼ yd. solid white fabric (samples show Bella Solids in Porcelain)
Front Appliqué: (1) piece solid white fabric, 12” long X 3” wide
Lightweight, double-sided, paper backed fusible web: (1) 9” X 12” sheet
(1) 18” zipper 

Please note: this pattern uses only (9) jelly roll strips, resulting in a lot of leftover fabric. You may want to plan another project to use the excess—I recommend one of the other wonderful tutorials here on the Moda Bake Shop!

Step 1: Make the pillow front:

Select nine strips from the jelly roll, trim to measure 18” long. Stitch along long sides to form a striped patchwork panel. Trim to measure 17 ½” X 17 ½.”

Tip: For maximum contrast, try to position a darker print or near solid as the second stripe from the bottom. This will ensure that your white appliqués show up well. Reserve the rest of this strip for the appliqués on the back of the pillow, which you will make in Step 2.

Step 2: Make the Appliqués

Print the template for the typeface of your choice—this tutorial features Helvetica, Rockwell, and Playbill. You will only need one template page per pillow. Templates can be found in the printer friendly version of this tutorial linked at the bottom of this page.

Tip: Make your own templates: Select a favorite font from your computer’s word processing program (bold san serif or slab serif fonts work best for this project). Type out the name of the typeface, then enlarge the character size until the letters are approximately 2” tall. This generally works out to be a type size of 180 to 210 pt., although this will differ from typeface to typeface. Print your template; for the pillow front appliqués, reverse the letters by turning the page over and tracing the outlines of the printed characters on the back. Use your templates to make fusible appliqués as follows.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, trace the templates onto the double-sided light fusible web. Cut out roughly, leaving a ¼” margin around your traced lines; you may want to cut out the entire word rather than cutting out each letter individually. Fuse the letters that appear reversed onto your white appliqué fabric. Fuse the letters that appear correctly oriented onto the wrong side of the jelly roll strip you reserved from Step 1, or a different strip that matches the second stripe from the bottom of your patchwork panel. Make sure to use a pressing cloth between your iron and fabric in order to avoid getting sticky residue on your sole plate.

Step 3: Place the Front Appliques:

Position your white fabric appliqués on the patchwork panel, aligning them with the bottom edge of the second stripe from the bottom. You will want to make sure that the last letter is at least 1 ½” from the right hand edge of the panel to leave room for the seam allowance.

Tip: Begin laying out your letters from the right-most letter and move left (i.e. backwards) towards the left side of the panel. 

When you are satisfied with your layout, fuse the appliqués in place, again using a pressing cloth between fabric and iron. Stitch around the appliqués using your machine or by hand; the samples were stitched by hand using a blanket stitch and a single strand of six-stranded cotton embroidery floss.

Step 4: Make the Pillow back:

From the solid white fabric, cut two rectangles measuring 17 ½” wide X 8 ½” long and 17 ½” wide X 11 ½” long. Fold one long edge of the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle back 1 inch and press well, creating a crease.

Install the zipper: 

Make sure the zipper is zipped. Unfold the crease in the 17 ½” X 8 ½” rectangle and place with the crease facing up; this is the right side of your pillow back. Place zipper face-down along the 17 ½” edge closest to the crease and align long edge of zipper tape with edge of fabric; pin well. Your zipper will be slightly longer than your pillow back is wide; to create a new “stop”, simply stitch back and forth several times across the zipper teeth at the point where the zipper reaches the 8 ½” edge of the fabric. Use your machine’s zipper foot to stitch as close to the zipper teeth as possible. When you approach the zipper pull, lower the needle, raise your presser foot, and carefully unzip the zipper until the pull is behind your needle. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching to the end of the zipper.

Refold crease; stitch along fold as close as possible to the zipper, making sure not to catch the zipper tape in your stitching. This will create a placket to cover the zipper.

Unzip the zipper. Place the tape face down against a 17 ½” edge of the 17 ½” X 11 ½” rectangle and pin well. Stitch as close as possible to the zipper teeth. This time, when you reach the zipper pull, carefully zip the zipper until the zipper pull is behind your needle. Continue stitching to the end of the zipper. Zip the zipper, place pillow back right side up, and press well.

You should have a 17 ½” X 17 ½” square (if slightly larger, trim to measure 17 1/2″ X 17 1/2″). Baste along side edges to hold zipper together when you assemble the pillow cover.

Place the appliqués:

Place your pillow front right side up. Place the pillow back on top with the right side facing down, the zipper towards the top edge, and the edges aligned. You should be able to see your front appliqués through the white fabric of the pillow back. Use a removable fabric marker–I recommend a Hera Marker or other creasing tool–and your ruler to trace lines along the bottom and sides of the word on the front of the cover. These will be your guidelines for placing the appliqués on the back. Turn the pillow back right side up and use the guidelines to place your back appliqués; the letters should be backwards. When you are satisfied with your placement, use your iron to fuse them in place. Stitch around appliqués using your machine or by hand.

Tip: If you use a fabric marker or pencil to make your placement guidelines, make sure you remove your markings before you use your iron to fuse the appliques in place! This is why I prefer to use a creasing tool for this step–I don’t need to remove any markings before pressing.

Step 5: Assemble the Pillow Cover:

Place pillow front cover and back cover together, right sides together. Make sure the zipper is unzipped a few inches. Align edges and pin well. Stitch along edges with a ¼” seam allowance. If you wish, finish the edges with a zigzag stitch. Unzip zipper all the way and turn cover right side out. Insert an 18” X 18” pillow form and you’re done!

This pattern will yield one cover for an 18” X 18” pillow. I recommend making several—have fun matching typefaces to the character of different fabric collections!

  Casey York

Peacock Love Mini Quilt

I am so happy and excited to be able to share my latest project here on the Moda Bake Shop!  My name is Pamela Lincoln and I blog over at Mama Spark’s World. The inspiration for this quilt is my daughter.  She raises peafowl on her farm and I thought this might be a nice surprise for her in her new home.  I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did.  If you do make one please share it on my Flickr page, I would love to see your birds!

Let’s get started, shall we?

1 Charm Pack of Kissing Booth by Basic Grey 30310PP
1 Fat Quarter of Kissing Booth Candy Pink 30150 169
2 1/2 yards of Kissing Booth Creme Brulee 30150 166
1/2 yard of Kissing Booth Candy Pink 30310 11

1 1/2 yards Lite Steam-a-seam 2 18″ size 5418

1 1/2 yards batting (your choice)
1 Skein DMC 310 black embroidery floss  17 3371

The first thing you will need to do is print out the templates.  They are located at the end of the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post.  I have drawn them in reverse so if you are using fusible they are all ready for you to use!  Tape the peacock together overlapping where indicated to make the complete bird.

You will need to trace one bird, one wing, one of the large hearts and at least 30 of the small hearts onto your fusible.  I used my light box but a window will work too.  Make sure you are on the correct side if you are using the Lite SAS2 (ask me how I know this!)  I drew one of the small hearts on to paper, cut it out and then traced it onto the cardboard that came with the charm pack.  I cut this cardboard heart out and drew around it onto the fusible so my hearts were more consistent.

You will need to roughly cut out around the shapes, don’t cut them out on the line!

Now comes the fun part!  Choose one of your charm squares for your wing, and approximately 15 other charms for your “feathers” (the small hearts).  Time to fuse the hearts and the wing to your chosen charm squares.  Place the right side of your fabric down on your ironing surface and place 2 hearts on the wrong side of the fabric.  Following manufacturer’s directions fuse the hearts to the charm square.  Do the same with the wing.

Using the plainer pink fabric that you have a FQ of you will repeat this process for the peacock’s body and the large heart.  Rough cut out the peacock, and fuse the body onto the wrong side of the pink fabric.  Repeat process for the large heart. 

Once all this fusing is completed you need to cut out all the hearts, the wing and the peacock on the line.  This will give you the components you need to make the wall hanging.

For the background you are using the Creme Brulee fabric.  Cut off 1 yard from the 2 1/2 yards you began with.  I left the selvedges on at this point and worked with the fabric horizontally, i.e. selvedges were on left and right rather than top an bottom.  I don’t know about you but I don’t have a large space to lay things out on yet.  My “design wall” is another wall hanging in my quilt room, or at least it is for now.  So the largest place I had to lay out the peacock and his tail was my bed!  Pay no attention to the two quilt inspectors!

This was NOT an exact science.  Remove the paper backing on your pieces before you begin and grab some pins.  Lay out the bird and his tail moving things around until you are happy with the placement.  I put my bird quite far to the left and approximately centered between the top and bottom of the background.  I then laid out the hearts until I was happy with the way they looked. Be sure to leave ~ 2 inches so you can remove selvedges and have room to move things if you are not happy.  At this point I put one pin through each of the hearts and a couple to hold the bird and his wing in place.  I did not put the large heart on yet, in case I wanted to be able to do some more trimming!

Now carefully pick up your masterpiece and move it to your design wall, or the floor or somewhere you can get some distance for additional viewing.  Here is where my “design wall came in handy.  See the blue lines and flip flops showing through from the quilt this is pinned to?  I was pretty happy with the placement so it was time to fuse it all to the background.  I carried the bird to my ironing board and following the manufacturer’s directions carefully fused (removing the pins a few at a time before I did the fusing). 

It is now time to trim the selvedges off.  I folded the top and trimmed the selvedges and also a little off the top so that my finished size was 32″ x 42″.

I folded the top in half to determine where to place my large heart, removed the paper and fused it in place also.

I like to secure all my fusible.  You can do this using a ziz zag, blanket stitch or a straight stitch. I opted for a straight stitch and black thread to define everything.

I have a few tips about doing the stitching around if you are using the straight stitch.  I used my open toe, zig zag foot and moved my needle over such that I could use the inside edge of the foot as a stitching guide.

I did one stitch back and then kept stitching, about half way around.  Then I went under the top and gently tugged on the loose thread to bring up a loop on the back.

I pulled the top thread to the back.

Knot off the thread and trim the thread tails.  Return to the sewing down your applique on the top.  This does require a needle down position on your machine as you want to keep your place on the top.

Do the same with the threads when you finish your applique.  This is what it will look like on the back.

Now using a marking tool, I use a pencil, and my light box, position the pattern under your piece and draw on the legs, the head feathers and the eye.

At this point you may either use your sewing machine to make the straight lines and the eye or you can embroider them.  I chose to embroider them using 3 strands of black embroidery floss, a number 11 needle and a small hoop.  I outlined the legs and head feathers using a back stitch.  I did the circles on the head feathers with a French Knot.  For the eye I did a back stitch around the outside of the eye and filled it in with a satin stitch.

DMC has an excellent embroidery stitch guide that can be found here, in case you need more direction than I am giving.

Briefly, this is what I did: 
For the back stitch:  Come up at A, then take a small stitch (between 1/8 and 1/4″ish) and put your needle down at point B to make one stitch.  Then push your needle from behind and come up at C.

Then you will put the needle back down into the B hole.  You continue this stitching to form a line.
I don’t usually travel my thread a great distance as I don’t want it to show through.  As you can see from where I began stitching I would be able to stitch up to where the other toes join the leg and down one more side but then would have to either knot and restart or travel.  I don’t do either of those.  Instead, on the back of the piece, I weave the thread up the line I just stitched to the point I want to go to to continue stitching.  In this case I was able to continue to stitch the toe on the other side of the leg, and then on the back, wove my thread up to the leg, in the center, between the two toes I just stitched.  I then stitched down the center toe and threaded the floss up to it’s starting point and continued to stitch the rest of the leg.  I finished the leg with a small knot and threaded the floss down a few stitches on the back and clipped the floss off.

I outlined the eye using a back stitch as well.  I seem to do better with a thread guide to use for my satin stitching.

I filled in the eye using a satin stitch.

 I used the back stitch for the head feathers with a triple french knot at the end of each feather.  This means I wrapped the thread around the needle 3 times before finishing the knot.  I could not, for the life of me figure out how to photograph that, I would have needed another hand!  You can see it in the stitch guide though.

VOILA!  Your peacock is now complete and ready for you to baste, quilt and bind as desired.

 I chose a heart pattern with some simple stitching in between the feathers and some on my bird’s body.  Before you bind you may want to attach a hanging sleeve.

I used the beautiful Kissing Booth floral for the binding.  My binding was cut 2.5″.

You will have one amazing 32″ X 42″ Peacock Love wall hanging!

Pamela Lincoln