Turn On The Charm Placemats

Hi there, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so pleased to be back at the Moda Bake Shop today.  I am going to show you how to make a set of 4 placemats, perfect for any wedding shower gift.  And honestly, who doesn’t love a handmade gift?!

1 charm pack (Boho by Urban Chiks)
2 yards fabric for background, binding and backing (Boho basic in Meadow)

Cutting Instructions:

From yardage:
Cut three 5″ strips (for blocks) and then sub-cut those strips into 24 5″ squares
Cut eight 2 1/2″ strips (for binding)
Cut four pieces approx. 22″ x 16″ (for the backings)

Choose 36 charms and cut each into four 1 1/4″ x 5″ strips as shown below.

Assembly Instructions

*seam allowances are always 1/4″ inch
Using 6 strips from various charms per block, piece 24 – 5″ blocks, as shown below.  **Note do not press your seams until all 6 strips are pieced together.

 Press the seams all in the same direction.

Now select one pieced 5″ block and one 5″ background square. 

 With right sides together, mark a diagonal line across the back of the square as shown below.
Sew 1/4″ on each side of your marked line and cut on the line between the seams.
Open them up and you will have two half square triangles.  Press toward the background fabric.

Trim all of your half square triangles down to 4 1/2″ blocks.  Use the 45 degree line on your ruler to line up with the diagonal seam in the block.

Now choose 12 trimmed half square triangles per placemat.  The best thing about half square triangles, is that there are so many ways to lay them out and get different results.  I chose to use the layout below.

Here are just a few of my other favorite layouts with these blocks.  Play around with yours to see what you like best.

Once you have selected your layout, piece the placemat tops together, pressing your seams in alternating directions per row.

Layer your quilt top, batting and backing and quilt as desired. 

You will need two 2 1/2″ strips of binding per placemat.

Four placemats approximately 12 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ perfect for any new couple in your life!  Now maybe they will invite you over for dinner 🙂

If you make any placemats using this tutorial, I would love to see them!  You can also check out my blog for other tutorials.

Amanda Castor
{Material Girl Quilts }

Ring Around Baby Quilt

Hi There 🙂   It’s me, Melissa Corry from  Happy Quilting and I am so excited to share my Ring Around Baby Quilt!!  I really love the bold prints and colors of Zen Chic’s Comma line.  They make it so much fun to work with.  So let’s get right to it!!

1 Comma Layer Cake
1 yard of favorite black print for pieced back, I used 1513 16
1/4 yard of favorite white print for pieced back, I used 1513 11
1/3 yard of favorite print for binding, I used 1512 20
Spray Baste


From your layer cake select the 5 black/white squares, the 3 grey/black squares, and the 8 white/black squares.  Lay them out in a 4 x 4 grid alternating black and white prints as shown.

Sew the blocks into rows.   Place the second block onto the first with right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge as shown in row 1.  I don’t pin these, I just align as I go.  Then place the third block onto the now sewn together 1st and 2nd blocks and sew a 1/4″ seam as shown in row 2.  Repeat process for the fourth block as shown in row 4.  Press towards the black/grey blocks.

 Now you can sew the rows together.  Place Row 1 onto Row 2 and Row 3 onto Row 4 with right sides together.  Take care to nest your seams and pin in place.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edges.  Repeat the same process to sew Row 1/2 and Row 3/4 together.

Press your rows.  Your quilt top will look something like this 🙂  Go ahead and set it aside for a bit.


Gather your remaining layer cake squares.  I set aside the 2 reprint squares and the square that matched my binding fabric to use on my Bonus Tutorial mentioned later.  Cut each of the remaining (21) 10″ squares into (4) 5″ squares.  For your applique, you can choose to cut perfect circles or wonky circles.

To make perfect circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Press the folds.  Using a compass, align the point on the folded center and draw a quarter circle.  Repeat for one to two more arcs.  Cut along the drawn lines.

And you have a varied number of rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.

To make wonky circles . . . Fold your charm square in half with right sides together.  Then fold in half again the opposite direction.  Finger press the folds.  Cut an arced shape over the folded center   Repeat for one to two more arcs.

And you have a varied number of wonky rings and circles.  Feel free to change the size and amount of arcs so that you get a lot of different size and widths of rings.  And you can really play with the wonky factor here.

Repeat for all of your 5″ squares so you end up with a pile of rings and a pile of circles.  Set the circles aside as you wont be needing them.  (They can be used in the Bonus Tutorial.)


First, you need to piece the quilt back so you can make a quilt sandwich.  Cut your yard backing piece into 2 pieces measuring as follows.  Trim the selvages from your 1/4″ fabric.  Sew the three pieces together using a 1/2″ seams.  Press the seams to the darker print.  (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture so you get a graphic.)

Create your quilt sandwich using spray baste.  The reason I suggest Spray Baste is because it will be difficult to add the applique with a whole bunch of pins in the way.  If you are new to using spray baste for creating a quilt sandwich you can see my video tutorial on how to do so.

And now you are ready to add the rings 🙂  Place approximately 4 rings in a box an spray with a coating of spray baste.  You don’t want to work with much more than that at a time or the baste will start to dry out.

Place the first ring onto your quilt top leaving a bubble where you would like to add the next ring.

Place the next ring onto the quilt top so that it links with the first.  At one of the intersections of the two rings, cut the new ring as shown.

Slide the two cut edges under the bubble of the first ring.  Press the rings in place leaving a new bubble in the second ring to add a third ring.

Continue the process.  Start new groupings and vary the size and shape of each grouping.  Some of my groups have up to 6 rings and some only two.  The more variation the better.

Continue until you have covered the entire quilt.  I ended up with about 2 rings left over.


And now you are ready to finish the quilt.  Your quilt sandwich is already made so you can move right onto quilting.  You will want to quilt this with a rather dense FMQ design to ensure that all of those cut edges get stitched down.  I choose to do a Interlocking Circles FMQ design and you can see a video tutorial on how to do this here.  It also gives some insights on quilting with all of the raw edges.  You will have to stop occasionally and lift your presser foot and then place it on top of the edge of the applique as sometimes it tends to pop up.  You will notice a few of my circles have been pinned.  Those were for the really stubborn ones that just didn’t want to stay in place.

Once you are finished quilting all that remains is to bind it.  Cut your binding fabric into (4) 2 1/2 ” strips and bind your quilt.  I machine quilted this to add strength as it is a baby quilt.  If you are new to this you can see a video tutorial on binding here.

One adorably chic and modern Ring Around baby quilt measuring 38″ x 38″, a perfect gift for a special little one.

And . . . If you want to finish that gift off with another little handmade treasure and use up your leftover circles at the same time, pop on over to Happy Quilting for this bonus Chic Circles Car Seat Cover Tutorial.

Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Ring Around Baby Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!

Melissa Corry

The Love Bunny Skirt

Hi!  I’m one of the Elizabeth’s from over at Simple Simon and Company and today we are sharing how to make one of our favorite things—skirts for our girls. This skirt in particular was made for my Grace to wear through out both the Valentine and Easter seasons.  Here’s how I made it.

One Layer Cake:  I used “Jubilee” by Bunny Hill
1/2 Yard of Bella White
1 inch elastic
bonding material (like Heat’n Bond)

2 Pompoms for the bunny tails

Today’s skirt is a a simple tube with a gathered, elastic waistband.
To get started you will need to take just 2 measurements.  First measure the circumference of your little one’s waist.  (Grace is 18 inches.)  Next measure your little one from her waist to her knee.  (Grace is 13 inches.)  Ok, write those numbers down and save them—you’ll need them in a few minutes.
Now let’s get down to business. Choose 3 of your favorite squares from the Layer Cake and cut them each into 4  rectangles measuring 4 and 1/2 inches tall by 5 inches wide.
Next sew the squares together (in a repeating pattern) into one long strip.
(You’ll sew them right sides together.)
 When you are finished iron them nice and flat.
(This will be the patterned strip at the bottom of your skirt.)
Now we need to cut the solid white portion of your skirt.  I like my girls skirts to have some body to them so I make them as wide as the fabric is (44 inches) and as for the length…well, we’re going to have to do some math.
Right now your patterned strip for the bottom is 4 and 1/2 inches high.  But when we hem it we will loose a half inch and then when attach it to the white fabric we will loose another 1/4 of an inch so that leaves us with 3 and 3/4 inches of length for the skirt.
For Grace’s skirt I wanted it to be 13 inches long so what I did was take that 13 inch measurement and then subtract from that the 3 and 3/4 inches (from the patterned strip) which puts me at 9 and 1/4 inches.  Easy…but we aren’t done just yet. 
Now I need to add in 1 and 1/2 inches to fold over the top for the elastic casing and add an extra 1/4 inch for where the white will be sewn to the gray strip. 
So after I add this extra 1 and 3/4 inches I know that I need to cut the white portion of my skirt 11 inches long.
Which I did.  Which means I cut my white piece of fabric 11 inches long by 44 inches wide.
(The length of your white area may be longer or shorter depending on the hip to knee measurement of your little one.)
Now with right sides together sew your patterned strip to the bottom of your white strip.
Then top stitch.
You will have a little excess patterned fabric left over on the end of your patterned strip.  Just cut that off so it is even with the end of your white fabric.
Now turn under the bottom (patterned) edge of your skirt 1/4 of an inch, iron, and sew.  Then repeat (turning it under another 1/4 inch, ironing, and sewing).  This will finish off the bottom hem of your skirt. 
Next we get to attach our heart and bunnies!
Select the fabric you would like for your heart and bunnies from the layer cake.
Then, following the instructions from the medium of your choice, iron on your bonding material to the back of your bunny’s fabric.
Now print out the bunny and heart template (which you can download HERE) and trace them onto your fabric.
Cut out and position them on your skirt.
(I like mine off to one side.)
Iron them on.
Next I set my machine on the following settings and stitched around all the edges of both bunnies and the heart.

Once that is finished we need to add the bunny tails which is easy—just tack on a pom pom with a needle and thread.
Now all we have left to do is close up the back of our skirt and add the elastic. 
To close up the back just fold your skirt in half, right sides together, and starting at the bottom sew your skirt together to make the back seam.  (Then top stitch if you’d like.)
Next, make the casing for your elastic. 
To do this fold the top of your skirt over (wrong sides together) 1 and 1/2 inches and iron. 
Stitch along the bottom of the fold to make the casing for your elastic. 
As you stitch leave an opening about an inch wide so you can insert your elastic.
To determine the length of elastic you will need take the measurement of your little one’s waist and minus one inch.  (Grace is 18 inches around so I cut the elastic for her skirt at 17 inches.) 
Cut your elastic. 
Now thread the elastic through your casing.
(I always attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic that I am threading through the casing…It makes it easier to push it through.) 
Sew the two ends of the elastic together.

Tack the elastic down in the back along the seam.
Close the opening you used for threading the elastic.
You are finished! And your little one has a brand new spring skirt!
I love this fabric. It’s so young, sweet, and clean. It is perfect for little girls and springtime!
I had so much fun with it that we ended up making Grace a bunny doll that matches her skirt.  If you’d like the pattern for her just stop over at Simple Simon and Company and check it out.
Thanks for letting us visit today.  We love any chance we get to talk about sewing and fabric!
Simple Simon & Co 

One adorable skirt.

*Note you will have enough fabric left over from your layer cake to make a stuffed bunny, matching hair bows, or another skirt—especially if you have more Bella White fabric!

Simple Simon & Co.


Chenille Baby Blanket

I am so happy and excited to be back at the Moda Bake Shop to show you this wonderful Chenille Blanket.  My name is Pamela Lincoln and I blog over at Mama Spark’s World.  I am always on the look out for a great baby shower or new born gift and this is perfect!  With a few simple ingredients and a few hours you will have a fantastic gift.  I have some other examples over on my blog too if you want to see more.  Are you ready to get started?

2 Charm Packs of Oink-A-Doodle-Moo 30520LC  (I love this fabric line!!)
1 yard windsor blue marble flannel F9880-14
1 yard orange marble flannel F6727
2 one yard cuts of hot red marble flannel F9881-36
1/2 yard denim blue horseshoe fabric (for binding) 30526-17

Basting needle and thread
Masking Tape
Chenille scissors are really helpful too

The very first thing you need to know is do NOT pre-wash your fabrics. This is pretty important as in the end you want the flannel to fuzz up. So no washing!

You will be making the back of your blanket first.  You will use most of your 2 charm packs for this.  Lay out your squares so you are happy with the design you are using.  (Yes I used my Peacock for my design wall). Your lay out will be 10 squares across by 8 squares down.

Once you are happy with your layout,  sew the squares together to from a row.  You will have 8 rows of 10 squares.  I like to chain piece these.

Then you will sew your rows together to form the back.  If you press each set of seams from the even rows in one direction and the odd rows in the other direction your seams should nest and your intersections will match up nicely as you do this.  I like to pin my intersections.

 Don’t sew over your pins though as you don’t want to hurt yourself or your machine. Sew just up to the pin and remove it.

 Your back will look something like this when you are all finished sewing your rows together.

Next you need to make sure all four pieces of flannel are pressed.  It will help you make a smooth top.

Lay your back on a large table right side down. 

 At this point you need to think about the order you put your flannel down.  The layer closest to the back will not get cut and will not add to the chenille portion of your blanket.  The top three layers make the actual chenille.  I like to use a contrasting back fabric.  (This makes things easier when it is time to do the cutting.)   Lay the flannel down on top of the wrong side of the back (wrong sides together) and smooth into place to cover the back entirely.  Continue adding the other 3 flannels in the same manner.

 My favorite way to make the chenille is to make a color sandwich.  I like to make the top and the third layer the same color with a different color in the middle.  Experiment with colors and you will figure out what you like best too.  I have done all 4 different and all the same but in the end I like this method best.  You need to lay down each layer of flannel and smooth it over the previous layer until you have all 5 pieces of fabric layered together. 

Take a roll of masking tape and with the help of a friend lay the tape diagonally across the fabrics, being careful to make sure you are going corner to corner.  Press tape in place.

You are now ready to baste your layers together.  I like to use a large basting needle to do this.  Put a LOT of thread on your needle and starting close to the tape take some largish stitches along the length of the tape.  Make a few stitches at the end and go back the other direction until the whole half of the blanket is basted.  Then repeat on the other side.  This will hold everything together when you are ready to take it to the sewing machine.

You are now ready to take your sandwich to the sewing machine and begin sewing your lines.  At this point you should put your walking foot with guide on your machine.

You will want to sew along the tape line as close as you can on one side without sewing through the tape.

 Once you have sewn your first line, corner to corner down one side of the tape you may remove the tape.

 I set my guide at 5/8″ from my needle.  This will be your guide for sewing your lines.  line the guide up on your first sewn line, keep it there and sew another line.  When you get to then end of the top, break your thread and start back at the top, always guiding off the previous line.  Alternately, you could mark each line but if you have a guide this is so much quicker! 

It will look something like this as you go along.  I like to remove my basting threads as I stitch along and try not to stitch over them.

Now comes some fun!  You will be using your chenille scissors or cutter to cut through the top 3 layers of flannel.  Be very careful not to cut through the layer closest to the back (in my case it is the blue layer, another good reason for a contrasting back color is that it makes it easier to know which layers to cut!)

You can see that I have cut 3 of the 4 flannel layers right here.  I find that for me, the scissors don’t distort the the flannel as much as the cutters but both will work.

Continue to cut through all the channels you have sewn until the entire top looks like this.

Whew!  I don’t know about you but my hands are tired!!  We are almost finished.  It’s time to square up the top.  Using charm squares for the back makes this a little easier since you can line things up.  First fold your blanket in half one way, with the charm squares on the outside.  It doesn’t matter which way as you will do it both ways eventually.  I used a few pins to make sure things were lined up.  I checked the top edge and pinned.

I also checked the first intersection at the top and put a pin.  You can see the raw edge we will be trimming.

I lined up my ruler using the fold as the straight line and trimmed off the raw edge.  This is easier using a 60mm cutter as there are a LOT of layers.  When you finish with one side, turn the quilt and do the other edge the same.  After you have trimmed both edges one way refold the blanket, match in the same way and trim off the raw edges.

For me the second fold edge I was trimming contained the selvedge edges.  I  had to trim slightly more here to get rid of the selvedge edge.  I lined up the sewn line with the 4″ on my ruler and made my trim that way.  I did the same thing on the other side.  You could do all 4 sides the same or just the 2 like I did.  How much you want to trim is up to you.

Here is my blanket all trimmed and square and ready for applying the binding.  

I cut 5 binding strips at 2 1/2″ and sewed them into one continuous length.  I pressed the strips in half and cut off the ends.  On the flannel side, match raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the blanket. 

 Sew binding on using your walking foot.

 It should look something like this when you are finished.

Once you have applied all your binding you are ready to turn it and stitch it down on the back.  A good tip is to press the binding from the flannel side in the direction of the back.  This will make it easier to stitch hand stitch the binding down.  I usually hand stitch my binding in place but machine stitching in place works too.

 Once your binding is secured put your blanket into the washer with soap and softner if you wish.  Wash on a normal cycle.  Mine went into the washer looking like this.

When it is finished washing pop it into the dryer and dry on high.  Be sure to check your lint trap frequently, every 15 minutes or so, as you will generate a LOT of lint!

Now for the MAGICAL part!  Are you ready??  This is my favorite part.  It comes out looking like this!

When it is done drying, remove blanket from the dryer and admire your beautiful, fluffy creation!!!

Here is a close up of the chenille part. 

I loved using the Moda flannel it was so soft and luxurious! Can you see the bits of white in the chenille?  That’s because the color in this flannel did not permeate all the way to the back, ie the back looked “white”.  If you use a flannel where the color goes all the way through, your chenille will be a little more uniform/saturated in color.  I really liked the effect the white gave to the chenille in this one.

You just know a baby is going to love the tactile nature of this blanket!  Beware though, once you begin making these everyone is going to want one.

One Chenille Baby Blanket that measures approximately 36″x 45″

I hope you have enjoyed making this fabulous blanket along with me and will stop by my blog and say hello!  If you do make one I would love to see it.  Please add it to my Flickr group.  I have one just for Chenille blankets.  Happy stitching!!


Pamela Lincoln

Kissing Stars Quilt

Hello! It’s Crystal Hendrix again! I want to thank you all for your support and love that you have had for my previous tutorials! Thank you all for having patience with me when you discover that I am human! The main point is that quilting is fun and if you don’t make a mistake you don’t learn anything!

Today I bring you Kissing Stars made from the line, Flirt by Sandy Gervais. I fell in love with this line as soon as I saw it! I just love the greys, pinks,reds and teals that it showcases! This is a very popular block and there are tons of great tutorials that you can find out there, but I hope you like mine and that it teaches you how to make a good star block!

This is a LARGE quilt but the great thing about it is you can leave off rows or columns to fit any size bed or quilt size you want! Love that about this pattern! Now I am happy to present the tutorial, Kissing Stars!

For the Blocks:
1 Layer Cake + 2 Charm Packs  OR  6 Charm Packs  : Flirt by Sandy Gervais
1 Layer Cake + 2 Charm Packs  OR  6 Charm Packs : Moda Solid White (another good color that would go great with this is the Bella Solids : Gray, Zen Gray or Feather)

For the Border:
1 1/2 yards 17701-14 (or any other color combo you would like)

For the Binding & Backing:
 3/4 yards 17705-22 (or any other color combo you would like)
8 1/4 yards 7521-552 (or any other color combo you would like)

*Notes*     – Use a 1/4″ seam allowance through out the whole quilt
                      – When I refer to the term “solid color” this is my Bella White solid color.
                      – To make 30 blocks you will need 240 Flirt charm pieces and 240 solid color charm pieces. Each charm pack has a total of 42 pieces in each. This comes out to 5.7 charm packs needed. If you use a layer cake, you can cut it down to 4 charm packs. This is what I have done with my layer cake. So if you are using a layer cake, cut it all into 4 – 5″ squares and this will give you your charm pieces. Then you can either use 2 more charm packs or 1/2 of another layer cake.
                      – WOF = Width of Fabric. This is usually 45″ but after trimming off the selvedge edges you end up with either 42″ to 40″ left. This is still the WOF.

For this pattern we are working with a 5 x 6 layout design for a total of 30 blocks.

For each block you will need:
4 – 5″ charm pieces of your solid color
8 – 5″ charm pieces of Flirt ( This is 8 DIFFERENT charm pieces)
4 – 4.5″ x 4.5″ of your solid color

For the entire quilt you will need:
120 – 5″ charm pieces of your solid color
240 – 5″ charm pieces of Flirt (You only need 8 different pieces for each block, so for all of the blocks you can mix up the different charm pieces)
120 – 4.5″ x 4.5″ of your solid color

For your border cut your fabric into 10 – 5” strips. With these strips make 2 – 80.5″ x 5″ and 2 – 105.5″ x 5″ pieces. 

For the binding cut your fabric into 10 – 2.5″ strips. Sew these all together to make your binding. I use a fold-over binding method

For the backing cut all of your yardage into 3 – 97″ x WOF or 3 – 2 3/4 yards pieces. Then with your 3 different panels, cut the WOF down to 38. Then sew the 3 panels together to give you approximately a backing of 97″ x 113″.

Now lets put together one block. You will do this same thing for a total of 30 blocks.

1. Take your 4 – Solid color charm pieces and your 8 – Flirt charm pieces and cut each of them on the diagonal. (There are MANY other ways that you can make a half square triangle, but this is how I prefer to make them. Simple and to the point. You can make the half square triangles using a different method but you will need to figure out the fabric required for it.)

2. Now I am a very visual person so at this point I lay out my block (see picture below –Yes I did this for all 30 blocks.) I think laying out your block helps reduce mistakes and having to use the dreaded seam ripper!

Once you know which piece you are going to sew together, I work on all of the half square triangles. Just place the right sides together and sew a 1/4″ seam down the diagonal of the pieces. Then press (always towards the darker side) and trim down your piece to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. There may not be a lot of discard but if you combine all of the discard for the entire quilt, you will see that it makes a difference when assembling your quilt top.

You can see above all of my half square triangles sorted and piled all together. See my trimmings pile? If you were to keep all of that it would have made assembling the blocks and eventually the quilt top a lot harder. This also helps give you your nice points! 

3. Once you have all of your half square triangles assembled, sew together two of your smaller blocks (your finished block will have a total of 16 smaller blocks – but you will now have a total of 8 sets of blocks, refer to the picture above if you are confused). Then press each block pieces.

4. Sew 2 sets to make 1 block (you will have a total of 4 sets now) and press. Then sew together 2 sets to make 1 block (you will now have a total of 2 sets) and press. Then sew your last two sets together to make your finished block!

Now at this point you have finished one block. Continue making 29 more blocks using the 4 steps above. I did not take a picture of this, but at this point I trim all my blocks to measure 16.5″ x 16.5″. Once again I might not get much trimmings, but it makes sure that when I assemble my quilt top, that it is easier. (I guess you could say that this is optional)

5. Now we will need to assemble 6 rows of 5 blocks. I used a random order and pulled one block after another to make my rows. Always press your seams when finished.

6. Then we will take our 6 rows and sew them together to give us our quilt top. Don’t forget to press your seams!

At this point your quilt should measure approximately 80.5″ x 96.5″. I say approximately because even though I trim and make sure that I use only a 1/4″ seam allowance I am sometimes off. But this gives you a good idea of where you should be.

7. Now we are to our last step! Attach your borders to your quilt top, but doing adding the top and bottom strips (80.5″ x 5″) and then adding strips to each side ( 105.5″ x 5″). Make sure you press all of your seams when you are done.

There you have it, your quilt top is done! Now you can baste, quilt and bind any way you like. I did add fabric and cutting information that you may use for your binding and backing if you like.

Congratulations! You have yourself one large quilt measuring approximately 89″ x 105″. I find this to be a perfect size for my bed! You can make a few extra blocks and attach them to pillow cases (or actually make pillow cases using your blocks – as you can tell I did not) and even make a few throw pillows! You will have some left over scraps, not a lot, but enough to be able to make a few things.  
I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to see your version of this quilt pattern or any quilt pattern tutorial that you used to make a quilt for either yourself or someone else. You will never know how much seeing your work brightens my day! 

If you have any questions or have found where I have made an “oops” please send me an email! I will help you the best I can!

Thank you all! 
Crystal Hendrix

The Cake Clutch

Hi! I’m Palak from Make It Handmade where I offer weekly tutorials on sewing, serging, knitting and everything in between. I’m so excited to share this clutch pattern with you all today!

As a former bride, I remember the desire to come up with gifts for the family and friends that would be thoughtful, meaningful, useful reminders of our wedding day– all on a budget. The Cake Clutch is a quick, easy clutch pattern that makes a perfect gift for bridesmaids, friends, second cousins, or even *gasp* your mother-in-law.

All the fabric needed for the clutches are pulled from one layer cake, which makes each clutch unique while still coordinating with the others. The finished clutch is the perfect size for stashing wedding day essentials while still being small enough to slip inside a larger bag for use as an everyday wallet.

Each layer cake is enough to make 12 clutches, making this project a very affordable way to come up with a dozen gifts.  Even if you aren’t a bride yourself, consider making these as a gift to a bride that you are close to. Simply ask her to choose a layer cake set from Moda’s selection that matches her wedding colors.

1 Layer Cake (I chose Bunny Hill)
1 nylon coil 9” (or larger) zipper for each clutch

Quilt batting to use as interfacing. A craft size package should be enough to make 12 clutches.

These clutches are pretty straightforward, especially if you are have already made other lined, zippered pouches. If you are new to zippers- don’t worry, by the time you’ve finished your last clutch, you’ll be an expert! Be sure to check out the tips and tricks at the bottom of the post for variations on the basic bag, and tips on choosing fabric.

Choosing Fabric:

The hardest part by far, is choosing fabric. You will need to choose 3 layer cake  squares and 1 zipper for each clutch.

One square will become the lining, another the main body of the bag, and the last will be the accent fabric. I recommend choosing a small print for the accent fabric to avoid having to fussy cut around large prints.


The best thing about using layer cakes is that there is very little cutting to do in this project. Slice your accent square in half to create a 5 x 10 inch rectangle. For the optional wrist strap, cut another 2×10 inch rectangle.

If you are using quilt batting as interfacing cut an 11″ square of batting for each clutch.

Pressing And Pinning:

Take your accent fabric and fold down the 10″ edges half an inch. Fold in half to match the center of both the main fabric and the accent piece. Lay the fabric on the batting square as shown and pin.

For the wrist strap (optional), take the 2 inch strip and press in half. Then open the strip and fold the edges inward and press again as shown.


Topstitch down the edges of the of the accent fabric 1/8″ inside the fold to secure the accent piece to the main fabric and batting. This is the the perfect time to add any quilting if desired. Once finished, trim the batting to be even with the fabric edges.

Sew down both long sides of the wrist strap 1/8″ inside the fold.

 Zipper Installation:

 Stack your pieces in this order, outside fabric face up, then zipper face down, and then lining face down. Sew down the edge of the zipper using a zipper foot.

When you are finished, you’ll have something like this.

 To sew the other side of the zipper, flip the outside fabric and lining fabric up to meet the other side of the zipper as shown. Sew along the zipper edge.

Cake Clutch Sides:

Now it’s just a matter of sewing the side seams of the clutch. Open the zipper half way, and reorient the lining as shown.  Insert the wrist strap between the outside fabric layers. (Guess who forgot to do this!). Pin to make sure the excess zipper tape is sandwiched between the lining layers, and the zipper teeth are pointed towards the outside fabric. Sew down both open edges making sure to leave an opening for turning


To finish, clip the corners and trim any excess zipper tape at the clutch edges.  Turn the clutch right side out and press well. Either hand or machine sew the opening in the lining. Topstitch along the zipper to secure the lining.

Now all that’s left to do is contemplate wrapping options!

Tips and Tricks:

  • If you are planning to mass produce these clutches, I recommend running through the entire tutorial for one clutch before starting assembly line production for all of them. 
  • I fell in love with some of the larger prints in the Bunny Hill collection. If you want to showcase some larger prints as the accent piece, fussy cut the prints to the dimension you think looks best. Keep in mind that you will need at least a 2″ strip leftover if you’d like to add a wrist strap.  Oda Mae’s post on fabric scale discusses how to judge a print’s scale by the online picture. 
  • You can also mix up how the clutch looks with a few simple changes. Here I’ve moved the strip off to one side.  

  • And in this picture I’ve added a small contrast band over the accent piece. 
  • I found it useful to use an edge stitching foot for all the topstitching as well as using a zipper foot for the zipper installation.

Up to 12 clutches and 12 happy bridesmaids! (And perhaps a secretly impressed mother-in-law).

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you’d like to see more about making these clutches, or more about quilts and other handmade items, or simply simply want to chat, stop by Make It Handmade! I’d love to see you!

Palak Shah

Scallop Bunting Cot Quilt

Hi guys!  I’m so pleased to be back here with another project!  I loooooved putting this quilt together. Super quick and easy, perfect for a beginner quilter such as myself.  I have an obsession with scallop bunting at the moment, and have been making quite a bit of it for my own home and those of friends and family.  This quilt combines that love, with my need to make some baby gifts for friends who are expecting babies.  I can see myself making quite a few more of these, so sweet and soft…

4 x fat quarters in the fabric of your choice
2 yards white (or light) fabric for your background
2 yards white fabric for your backing
1 yard white fabric for binding
2 yards batting
Fabric glue

1. To begin with you will need to cut out your scallops.  My scallops measure 5″ wide and 5″ long, including the seam allowance.  To get perfectly rounded edges, I used an appropriately sized dining plate as a guide.
2. Cut your first piece of white fabric into five strips measuring 10″ (which includes 2 x 1/4″ seam allowances) by 30″, and one strip of 5″ by 30″.
3.  Attach four scallops to each strip, using fabric glue (alternatively, attach scallops to interfacing and skip this step – pinning them to the strips instead).  Make sure each scallop sits right up against the top edge of the strip and snug against each other – but not overlapping. You will want to make sure that you have rotated the colours for each one (though a random mix would also look lovely).  You will need to leave approximately  5″ on each end of the strip, which will be covered with binding.
4. For those of you with fancy machines (or anything made in the last few decades ;-)) you will now applique your scallops using a tight & wide zigzag stitch, or whatever your fancy machine does.  For me and my antique machine (which has no zigzag option – I make do), I did two single seams about a 1/4″ apart, with one as close to the edge of each scallop as I could safely get.  There will still be some fraying (for me), but the fabric glue will help keep that to a minimum.  
5.  Next place two strips (ensuring you have them in the right order) right side to right side, with the top piece facing upside down.  See image below for clarification.

Attach the two strips using a 1/4″ seam allowance, and then repeat with each of the rest of the strips.
6. Take the 5″ by 30″ strip and attach it to the top of your quilt top (see image of final quilt).
7. Sandwhich, pin or baste, and then quilt your… erm… quilt!
8. Attach binding, and you’re done!

Like I said, this is a super easy quilt to make, and would be a perfect wee quilt to gift to an expectant mom (or just keep for yourself – something I was tempted to do!).  I think you could have a lot of fun playing with the colour scheme and pattern.  I’m eager to have another go with some different fabric and see what I can come up with!

Stella Rutherford