Hidden Stars Quilt

Hello Everyone,  I’m Crystal from over at Hendrixville.  I am proud to present another Moda Bake Shop Quilt! I had a lot of fun putting this quilt together, and even though there are a lot of little pieces, it assembles quickly!

Hope you enjoy making it as much as I do!

*This block I saw on someone’s blog and searched all over to find the instructions to it, or even find the name of the block. With no luck I decided to re-create it.*

(2) Grace by 3 Sisters Layer Cakes
(2) Basic Bella White Layer Cakes

3/4 yard Bella White
1 1/2 yard brown fabric (this is your last border color)
3/4 yard for binding (any color you like)
8 yards for backing (any color you like)

I know that at first glance this quilt/block looks very hard, but the hardest part is having all the pieces facing the right way. Hopefully these step-by-step instructions will help!

Here are your cutting instructions:

Once you have cut out all the squares, we will start making our HST’s (Half Square Triangles).

Take your white 3 1/8″ squares and draw a diagonal line. You can use a fancy quilting pen, regular pen, marker, or pencil. You will cut on this line so just don’t use something that is really thick.

Once you have the line drawn, pin the square right sides together with a colored square. 

Sew 1/4″ along each side of the line you drew. The fastest way to do this is chain stitching. Chain stitching is when you continually feed in the fabric leaving a little space of thread between each.

Once you have your squares sewn together, cut on the line – splitting them into two.

Press each square toward the colored fabric.

At this point you need to trim up your squares. Depending on how straight your stitching is, you might have to trim more to make sure all squares are the same. If you do this, make sure you cut down your plain squares (white and colored) to the same size. In this case, just trim your block to 2 3/4″ squares.

I am going to show you ONE way you could put together your blocks:

Layout all of your squares into this pattern, then sew the rows together and then columns or…

Separate them into 16 mini blocks (4 squares in each)

Then increase them to larger blocks (16 squares each)

Then finish up your whole block. Depending on you and how you visualize your quilts you can try this or:

Separate all of your little squares into this pattern. This is where you can randomize your color schemes. But the block is made up of 8 of each of these. (8 white based ones and 8 color based ones). Leaving you a total of 160 of each.

Then you will create this star with all of your little pieces. This star rotates to get every position. Then you assemble the quilt.

Assembling the Quilt Top:

You will need to sew together a grid of 4X5. Sew anyway you want them to go together, but again make sure you assemble them correctly (watch for accidentally turning a block the wrong way).

Then you will have all your squares like this.

Then you will add the 1st set of your boarders.

Then add your second set of borders:
Now you have your quilt top done! 

Now baste, bind, and quilt as desired. A good way to use your scraps from your layer cakes is to create a pieced section on the back of your quilt.

In the end you will have a quilt approximately 88″x106″, a nice quilt for you bed. This quilt will fit either a queen or a full size bed.

Crystal Hendrix

Layered Valance

Hey there! It’s Rebecca Silbaugh from Ruby Blue Quilting Studio, back for another recipe! This time around I have for you a tutorial on how to make your own valances. I was looking for the perfect curtains to match the new paint in my sewing room. And let me tell you, after searching and searching I finally got fed up enough that I decided to make my own. Now I can coordinate my window treatments with any quilts I decide to display. Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

One jelly roll (I used Oasis by 3 Sisters – Very Yummy!!!)
One Yard of main fabric for pleated layers (I used #4044 11)
1/4 Yard of an accent fabric (I used the pink #4048 13)
Depending on the size of your windows and the number of valances you would like to make, you may need to alter the amounts of fabric needed. We’ll discuss this more in a minute.

I added some buttons onto my valance where the pleats meet, but you could also add ric rac, pom poms, lace, or any other kind of trim you desire. Applique would be adorable as well!

Don’t say I didn’t warn you, but this recipe does call for some math (just a smidge, not a bunch). To get started, you will need to measure the hardware for where your valance(s) will hang. First measure the width of the hanger and if it’s a curved piece like mine, you will need to measure the sides too.

Alright, here’s the incy wincy amount of math needed. Take the measurements:
(side x width x side = total width)

For example my window measurements are : 2.5″ x 49″ x 2.5″ = 54″

To calculate how many jelly roll strips you will need, take the total width and divide by 2. (54″ / 2 = 27).
I will need to choose 27 strips to get the width to cover my window.

Take those 27 strips and lay them out until you get a pleasing assortment that mixes the colors. Sew the strips together.

Once sewn, you will need to trim off the selvage edges to make a straight square edge.

Also, trim off 2 strips 5″ wide and set these aside for now.

Fold the remaining strip set in half, right sides together. It should now measure roughly 15″ x the calculated width. Pin the edges if needed.

Sew along the edge stitching all the way to the fold. Repeat for both sides.

Trim the corner. Do not cut through your stitching! Fold the piece inside out and press. If you need to finagle (technical term for fudge) your seams to the edge and pin them in place until you press, you can do so if it helps. Top stitch around all 3 closed edges. Do not topstitch the open side!

From your Main Fabric, cut 2 strips 2.5″ wide and set aside. Cut the remaining fabric into equal halves, approximately 15″ wide x WOF each.

Now, look back at your window measurements – you’ll need those once again. Just a smidgen more of math, promise!

If you have sides to your window hardware, take that measurement and add 1/2″ to it. (2.5″ + .5″ = 3″) Cut a strip the width of this measurement from each of the 2 larger Main Fabric pieces. ( 3″ x 15″).

Then take the straight width measurement of your window and divide by 2. (49″ / 2 = 24.5″). Add 1/2″ to that calculation to get the measurement of the to front pleats needed. (24.5″ + .5″ = 25″) Now cut a segment the length of this measurement from each of your 15″ pieces. (25″ x 15″)

Fold each of the pieces just cut in half right sides together so they’re only 7.5″ x measurements from above. Stitch along the two 7.5″ edges on each piece, trim the corner fabric, turn right sides out and press. Then topstitch as you did with the larger pieces strip segment for each of these pieces. Set aside.

Now cut 2 strips 2.5″ wide from your accent fabric. Sew these two strips together into one long 2.5″ wide strip.

* Depending on your hardware, if you have a decorative end that may be larger than 2″ tall, you may need to adjust this measurement to make sure your valance will fit onto the hardware.

Sew the accent strip onto one of the 5″ wide strips cut from the jelly roll segment. Trim any excess so the accent is the same length as the jelly roll strip.

Fold the strip in half right sides together and only stitch from the seam to the fold. Do this on both ends. Trim the corners, and fold right sides out. While pressing, make sure the un-stitched areas of each end are folded in and pressed to match the sewn areas.

Topstitch only the sewn parts of this piece stitching along the top (folded) edge, the two sides, and stitching in the ditch (along the seam) of the accent fabric. (Stitching in the ditch along the accent fabric seam will form the pocket for the window hardware, don’t forget this step although I missed getting a picture of it somehow, I apologize. I must have just been in the groove and sewing away!)

Now this part is a bit tricky, but just remember to breathe and go slowly. You’ll be fine. Top stitch the folded seams where the arrow shows. You will need to do this for all four seams (2 per end), this will enclose the seams and then your hardware won’t catch on it while you’re attempting to hang your valance.
 Remember those 2.5″ strips from the Main Fabric? Sew those together forming one long 2.5″ strip.

Trim the selvage off one edge and fold over wrong sides together 1/2″ and press. Fold the raw edge into the crease and press again for a double 1/4″ hem. Topstitch the edge as shown. Measure the width of your jelly roll piece to be sure and add .5″. Trim the 2.5″ wide strip to that measurement and fold in the opposite end and topstitch as you did with the first one.

Now comes the fun part. Time to layer! Layout your jelly roll strip with raw edges opposite you.

Next lay the main fabric pleats, 2 larger pieces in the center and 2 smaller pieces on the outsides. Align the raw edges from these with the raw edges of the jelly roll strip.

(If there’s a small gap in between the pieces that’s fine, just don’t overlap these pieces!)

Place the 2.5″ main fabric strip on top of these right side down and pin all the pieces together aligning the edges. Press the 2.5″ main fabric strip up.

Now place the smaller jelly roll and accent piece onto the valance aligning the raw edges and making sure the accent piece is going to be touching the main fabric.

Pin in place and press. The valance is done, but…

Remember that other 5″ strip from back in the beginning? If you have longer curtains you are going to be putting in the same window, you could use this strip for coordinating tie-backs. Press the strip in half wrong sides together.

Open it up to see the crease.

Press one side over to the crease.

Press the opposite side to meet the first at the crease.

Press in half where you originally had it at the crease, enclosing all edges. And pin if needed. Trim in half and topstitch. If you want to fold in the edges to finish them off, do so before topstitching. Or if you have pinking shears, use those to trim the pieces in half to bet the same effect as the jelly roll edges.

One valance, approximately 20″ long and covering the width of your window with pleats at each corner and the center. Add buttons or any other embellishments you’d like before you hang it up, I put a button at each pleat.

This is what it looks like during the day with the sun shining, it almost gives it a stained glass window feel.

Or at night, the colors still show off beautifully.

This is the view of my sewing room where it hangs. Please don’t mind the mess, it’s just a sign of works in progress and once I get the perfect lace curtains, the coordinating tie backs will look wonderful.
I hope you like this recipe and if you have any questions or would like help on how to figure out what you will need to fit your windows, please e-mail me at rubybluequilts (at) gmail (dot) com.
I also have made some other curtains for my house as of late, so hop on over for tutorials on those and to see what else I might be cooking up at my blog, rubybluequilts.blogspot.com.
As always, I would love to see your version  of this recipe so e-mail it to me and I will post it on my blog or add it to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr Group!
Until next time!
-Rebecca Silbaugh

Ruffle Quilt

1 jelly roll: choose 12 strips OR if you don’t have a Jelly Roll, you’ll need (12) 2 ½” strips by WOF
1 ¼ yard of fabric for solid strips and ruffles
⅓ yard binding fabric (or use 4 jelly roll strips)
1 ½ yard backing fabric

1. Take your 12 strips and cut each strip into:
    (2) 5” pieces
    (2) 7” pieces
    (2) 10” pieces

See photo below:

2. Start piecing together new strips. For each new strip you will need two different 5” pieces, two different 7” pieces, and two different 10” pieces. Mix fabrics and lengths however you want. The more random, the better. Your new mixed strips will be approximately 2 ½ X 42″. Make 12 mixed strips.

3. Take your 1 ¼ yard of fabric and cut (15) 2 ½ X WOF strips. Set aside 10 strips; they will be used later for the ruffles.

4. Layout the design, starting with two mixed strips then one solid strip. Continue until you use all five solid strips. You will use 12 mixed strips and 5 solid strips. Sew all strips together until quilt top is finished. See below.

5. Square the top to 34” x 42”. NOTE: Depending on your cutting and sewing this measurement should be close.

Making the Ruffles:

1. Take the (10) 2 ½” x 42” ruffle fabric strips cut previously. Sew (2) 2 ½” x 42” strips together, making one long continuous strip. Repeat 5 times. Finish long side raw edges of strip with a small hem or zigzag stitch.

2. You can either gather the strips by sewing basting stitches down the center of the strip and pulling stitches to gather the ruffle to 40”, or you can use a ruffle foot. We used a ruffle foot; it made making the ruffles so fast and easy. Make (5) 40” ruffle strips.

3. Before you add the ruffles to each of the five solid strips, quilt the top as desired.

4. Place one 40” ruffle on one of the solid strips of the quilt, determine where to hem the 2 short ends of the ruffle and do so. Using a walking foot, machine stitch down the center of the ruffle. Continue until you have sewn all 5 ruffles to the 5 solid strips.


From binding fabric cut (4) 2 ½” strips, or use jelly roll strips.

Sew all 4 strips together (short ends) to make 1 continuous strip. Fold binding strip in half wrong sides together and press. Attach binding to right side of quilt (raw edges even) and machine stitch all the way around. Turn binding to back and hand stitch down.

 Copyright 2010 Jamie Mueller and SunFlower Quilts
*I hope ya’ll enjoy this ruffle quilt! If you make one too please feel free to email me with photos, I’d LOVE to see them!mailto:jamiemueller0522@yahoo.com

Car Diddy Bag

Isn’t it amazing how quickly a car can get unorganized and messy? And add some kids into the mix… yikes!

This tutorial is for a multifunctional Car Diddy bag. Use it as a litter bag (the interior is laminated for easy cleaning) or as a toy/activity bag.

Enjoy 🙂

8 layer cake squares (Martinique)
3/8 yd Moda laminated cotton (Martinique)
Two (1″) D-rings

1. Cut 5 layer cake squares according to the following diagram. You will now have (20) 5″ squares!

2. Cut 3 layer cake squares according to the the following diagram. You will now have (27) 3″ squares!

3. Layer a 3″ square on top of a 5″ square and stitch in place. Repeat for a total of 18 sets.

You will have two leftover 5″ squares and nine leftover 3″ squares. Set these aside.

4. Slice each square on the diagonals.

5. When you peel back the corner, you’ll see a dog tail underneath.

Snip the dog tails off to keep the block from getting too bulky.

6. Mix and match triangles.

7. Sew triangles together to create 18 new squares.

8. Lay out nine squares like the picture below.

Sew the squares from each row together.

Then sew the rows together. Repeat this step to create another exterior panel.

9. Layer the two exterior panels from Step 8 right sides together. Stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Please be sure to leave the top open! Turn right side out and press.

10. Take twelve of the 3″ leftover squares from Step 3 and stitch right side together to create a long strip. Take two more 3″ leftover squares and stitch right side together to create a short strip.

11. Fold each strip right side together and stitch along each long side. Turn right side out and press.

12. Edge stitch the long ends of each strip.

13. Slide two D-rights onto the middle of the short strip. Stitch a line to keep D-rings secure.

14. Measure 1.5″ in from each top corner of the exterior. Baste strips in place, sewing through only one layer of the exterior.

15. Now grab your laminated cotton. Isn’t it fabulous? You’re going to love sewing with it. Okay, back to business… Cut two 11″ x 11″ squares from the laminated fabric.

Layer right sides together and stitch both sides, leaving the top and bottom open. Leave the lining wrong side out and place the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

Pin the top edges together and stitch all the way around.

16. Pull the exterior through the opening in the bottom of the lining. Hand or machine stitch the opening in the bottom of the lining.

17. Tuck the lining into the exterior and top stitch all the way around.

That’s it! You’re done. Loop your sassy new litter or toy bag around the front headrest and secure with the D-rings.

A cute and functional way to minimize mess!

Patchwork & Points

Kennedy and her quilt

1- Martinque by 3 sisters charm pack
1- bella solids charm pack
(yes you heard it here- Moda is doing a variety of bella solids in charm packs, jelly rolls, layer cakes and fat quarter bundles) IN STORES APRIL 2010
1/2 yd Prairie Point
1 1/2 yd Backing (you will also cut 1-5″ square from this fabric)

Your choice of buttons or floss to tie quilt top


STEP 1: Set aside 4 solid charms and 5 print charms.
STEP 2: Alternate print and solid charm packs sewing sets of two. Press towards the prints so the seam allowance does not show through. Continue combining the sets until you have 9 sets of 8 squares.

STEP 3: Using the charm squares set aside in step 1, add 1 charm to each of the rows. Arrange the rows in whatever order you want. My niece Kennedy was up bright and earlier so this is where the project became “hers.” This will give you 9 rows x 9 rows. Imagine the possibilites of adding the solid charm packs to your favorite print collection. Can you tell I am super duper excited about mixing Bella solids with the moda prints?
And yes i did let my niece have a Dr. Pepper for breakfast.

PRAIRIE POINTS (or as my niece calls them, shark fins)
Cut 4 strips 4″ wide.  I decided to do this size prairie point when I was playing around with my pillowcase tutorial. Follow the directions listed on my blog for the prairie points except the size is smaller. I have listed the sizes here.
Fold the strip in half length wise and press to determine the middle. Start on one end of the strip and cut every 2″ stopping at the middle fold. From the other side of the strip make your first cut at 1″ then start cutting every 2″ being sure to stop at the middle fold.
4″ strip cut every 2″ alternating on each side so it it staggered

Lay the strip on your ironing board and press all the squares in the same direction. Leave the 1″ strip
loose. You will get rid of it later.
Then continue pressing all the triangles back onto themsleves in the opposite direction.
The strip of “Points” will fold together to create your strip of prairie points.
By pressing the points in the same direction you can “nest” each of the points into each other.
The points all line up nicely and rest inside each other. This step if reminds me of a caterpillar. To hold the “caterpillar” in place you can now top stitch this down to hold them in place.

Prairie Points rolled up
If you want a strip longer than approx 41″ of points just make another strip and nest it into the last point on your strip. This is the perfect size for making prairie point border on a baby quilt or throw.

The length of the prairie point strip will always be the length of the fabric. The only thing that varies is how many points and how far apart they are.

For example, cut an 8″ strip for 4″ prairie points and you will have fewer but bigger points. The strip will still be approx 41″/42″ long.

Cut a smaller strip 6″ for 3″ points. The strip will still be approx 41″/42″ long.

Machine Baste the praire points to all 4 sides of your quilt top.
Lay quilt top on the floor right sides up.
Next lay quilt backing right side facing quilt top.
Lay batting on top. Pin the 3 layers together. Sew 1/4″ on four sides leaving a 12″ opening to turn the quilt right side out. Be sure and use the 1/4 seam allowance so you do not chop off the small prairie points.
Clip away any excess batting and backing. Trim the corners nicely and turn right side out.
Sew the opening closed. I topstitched around the edges of the entire quilt.
Use your favorite choice to secure the layers together. Kennedy choose to tie the squares in the middle of the print blocks with a pink thread.
I was serious about Kennedy making the quilt “Hers”. The quilt is off to Austin for a neighbor who is expecting a new baby.(Kennedy said 70% chance it is a girl)

1 Print Charm Pack & 1 Bella Solid charm pack yields a 9×9 quilt measuring approx. 40.5″ x 40.5″

2 Charm Packs & 2 Bella Solids charm packs yield a 10 x 15 quilt measuring 40.5″ x 67.5″

3 Charm Packs & 3 Bella Solids charm packs yield a 15 x 16 quilt measuring 67.5″ x 72″

Lots of fun doing this project with my niece. She nows wants a sewing machine for her birthday!
Project Runway, here we come!

Aster Manor Pillow

by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom
The muted prettiness of ‘Aster Manor’ by 3 Sisters combined simply with linen, pearl buttons and ric-rac make up this dreamy little pillow.
Finished size: approximately 12″ x 20″

1 x ‘Aster Manor‘ by 3 Sisters honey bun (3990HB)
0.5 yard linen or linen/cotton blend fabric
1 x rectangular cushion insert, 30 x 50 cm (12″ x 20″)
7 x cream pearl buttons (I used Moda’s ‘Bag of Buttons’)
0.75 yard ivory 0.5″ cotton ric-rac
lightweight fusible fleece (I used Vilene H 630 made by Freudenberg)
piping cord
ecru DMC embroidery floss

From the fusible fleece, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 20.5″.
From the honey bun, choose 7 strips. From each of these strips, cut a 12.5″ length.
Lay the rectangle of fusible fleece on ironing board, with fusible side up. Lay the first fabric strip along one short edge of the fleece, and fuse.
Lay the second strip on top of the first strip, right sides together. Pin in place.
Using a 0.25″ seam, stitch the strips together to the fusible fleece.
Open the strips, & flip the second strip onto the fusible fleece and press.
Cut a 12.5″ piece of ric-rac. Pin the ric-rac in place on the second fabric strip.
Sew ric-rac in place using a 0.25″ seam.

Lay the third strip on top of the second strip & ric-rac, right sides together. Pin in place.

Flip the pillow cover over. Stitch the third strip in place by stitching just inside your previous row of stitching.

This ensures that the row of stitching holding the ric-rac in place does not show when you flip the third strip back and press.
Using this method, add a further 4 fabric strips to the pillow panel, with a second row of ric-rac between the 3rd and 4th fabric strips.

Making the piping
Cut a 12.5″ strip from one of your honey bun strips. Press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the piping cord along the fold on the inside of the strip. Pin.
Using a zipper foot, and moving your sewing machine needle far to the right, sew a row of stitching as close as you can to the piping cord.
Trim the fabric strip to 0.25″ from your stitching line.

Pin your piping to the last fabric strip of your pillow panel.

Again, using the zipper foot, stitch the piping to the pillow. Try to stitch just inside the previous row of stitching.

From the linen fabric, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 13.5″. Pin the linen rectangle to the pillow front. Flip the pillow panel over & sew the linen to the panel by stitching along the previous row of stitching which secured the piping.

Press the linen back across the fusible fleece & fuse.

Button embellishment
Seven pearl buttons are hand-stitched on the sixth strip of the pillow top. Place a small pencil mark 1.75″ in from the top and bottom edge. Mark every 1.5″ between.
Using 3 strands of ecru DMC embroidery floss, work a running stitch along the centre of the sixth strip, stopping at each pencil mark to secure a pearl button.

Making the pillow back
Cut one rectangle of linen fabric, 8″ x 12.5″. From a honey bun strip, cut one 12.5″ length. Pin the honey bun strip to the 12.5″ edge of the linen rectangle, with the right side of the strip towards the wrong side of the rectangle – I know this sounds weird, but stay with me! Stitch with a 0.25″ seam.
With the wrong side of the honey bun strip facing up, press 0.25″ seam under.
Fold the honey bun strip back over to the right side of the rectangle.

Topstitch this honey bun strip, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Cut another rectangle of linen fabric, 17″ x 12.5″. Turn the 12.5″ end of the rectangle in 1.25″ towards the wrong side and press. Turn in a further 1.25″ to give a double hem. Stitch this hem, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Lay the two back rectangles, with the honey bun strip trimmed piece overlapping the hemmed linen piece. Overlap the rectangles until the total width is the same as your pillow front. Pin in place.
Stay-stitch the backing pieces together at the overlap, top and bottom, using 1/8″ seam.

Making the ties
Choose a honey bun strip for your ties, and cut into four equal lengths (approximately 10.5″ to 11″). Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together and press. Stitch across one short end and along each long side using a 0.25″ seam. Turn the tie right side out and press. Make four ties.
Pin two of the ties to one side of the back panel, centred at 4.25″ and 8.25″ from the top. (The raw edge of the tie will be against the ruler).
Stitch across the end of the tie to secure.
Fold the ties back over themselves and pin.
Topstitch the ties in place as shown below to enclose the raw edge.
Repeat for all four ties.

Completing the pillow
Place the pillow front and back right sides together. Keeping the ties well out of the way, stitch around the entire pillow using 0.25″ seam. Overlock or zigzag the seam to strengthen if desired.
Turn pillow cover to right side through the back opening. Put cushion insert inside cover and your pillow is complete. The front side should look something like this:
The back of your pillow should have two nifty little bow ties.
Each honey bun will yield approximately 10 of these pillows.

Vintage Inspired Bear Paw Quilt

I was inspired by this Bear Paw quilt made by my great-grandmother to make my own version of this very special quilt.  You can even see by the worn spots how much this quilt is loved. I didn’t know my great-grandmother very well, but I know she was a very special lady by the way my mom talks about her and the fact that she taught my mom how to quilt when she was young.  I love this quilt! I am thankful to be able to share this tutorial with all of you, so you too could make a very special heirloom piece for you and your family.  Enjoy!

Fabric featured in tutorial is Glace by 3 Sisters
2 Charm Packs
1 Turnover
1 Basic Jelly Roll in Snow #9900JR-11
1 yard Bella Solid in Snow #9900-11
5 yards coordinating fabric for backing and binding
Coordinating Thread
Luna Batting by Moda

Cutting the Pieces…
1. Select 12 Charm Squares and 12 Turnover slices from 4 different color ways.  You will need a total of 48 Charm Squares and 48 Turnover slices.

2. You will need to trim your 48 charm squares down to 4 1/2″ square.

3. From the Turnover slice, cut the triangle down the center creating 2 triangles.

4. From the two smaller triangles, cut them in half creating two more smaller triangles.
5. You should now have 4 little triangles from your 1 original Turnover slice.
Repeat these steps for all 12 of your triangles selected.
6. From the 1 yard of Bella Solid cut 96 – 3″ x 3″ squares. 
7. Cut them in half diagonally creating two triangles.  Do this to all 96 squares.
8.  From the Solid Jelly Roll…
Cut 48 – 14 1/2″ strips for borders.
Cut 48 – 6 1/2″ strips for sashing.
Cut 96 – 2 1/2″ squares.  48 of these squares will be used for each bear paw.  The other 48 squares will be used on the borders.
Sewing the bear paw…

All seam allowances are 1/4″

9. Lay out your triangles and squares as shown below to create a bear paw.  I used all the same print for each individual bear paw.

10. Begin by sewing all the triangles RST (right sides together)
11. You should now have four squares that look like the picture below.
12. Lay out all your pieces again for your bear paw to get proper placement. 1 trimmed Charm square (4 1/2″), 4 sewn triangle squares and 1 – 2 1/2″ square from your solid jelly roll.
13. First sew two of the triangle blocks together on one side of the charm square as shown.  Press all pieces as you go.
14. Next sew the other two triangle blocks and the plain solid block together in a row as shown. press.
15. Sew the row of the two triangle blocks RST to one side of the charm square. press.
16. Align your seams and sew the other row of the three blocks to the other side of the block as shown. press. Trim your bear paw to 6 1/2″ square.
17.  Repeat steps 9-16 for all 48 bear paws. You should now have 12 bear paws of 4 different color ways.

18. From your left over charm squares and/or turnover slices, cut a total of 12 – 2 1/2″ squares.  3 squares for each of the 4 color ways.

On a charm square, simply slice in half in both directions.

On a turnover slice, cut 2 1/2″ from one one of the shorter sides as shown.
Then turn and cut 2 1/2″ from the other short side of the triangle.
Constructing the Bear Paw Clusters…

19. Lay out 4 bear paws of the same color way, 4 – 6 1/2″ sashing strips, and 1 – 2 1/2″ middle square that coordinates with your bear paws as shown below.

20. Sew the rows together as shown below and press your seams opposite from another as shown to reduce the bulk when sewing.
21. Sew the three rows together RST creating a bear paw cluster. press.
22. Lay out your bear paw cluster block and 4 – 2 1/2″ squares and 4 – 14 1/2″ squares as shown below.
23. Sew the pieces together creating three rows as shown. press.
24. Sew the three rows RST as shown. press.
25. Repeat steps 19-24 for all the other bear paw blocks. You should now have 12 bear paw cluster blocks, 3 of each of the 4 color ways.

Assembling the Quilt…

26. Lay out all your blocks as you see fit.

27. Sew the blocks together in rows.

 28. Sew the rows together to complete your quilt top.

29. Quilt, bind, ENJOY!

Quilt top measures 54″ x 72″

Angela Yosten