Hello Moda Bake Shop readers. I am Anshu from Blooms And Bugs. I mostly sew little girls clothes. Today I’ll show you how to make this pretty layered skirt with 2 half-yard fabrics. I chose Kate Spain’s Good Fortune collection for this skirt and I loved how the fabric brought out the best in the skirt.
2 half yards of coordinating fabric (there will be quite a bit of leftover)
1 jelly roll strip for Bias tape at the hem of inner layer
1 jelly roll strip for ruffle at the hem of outer layer
1 jelly roll strip for belt loops
1.5 yard Grosgrain ribbon for belt (about 1.5 inch wide)
For making the skirt in a 2 year old size:
Cutting and preparing the layers:
Cut two rectangles of length = 11.5 inches and width = 36 inches from two coordinating fabrics.
Sew both rectangles into a tube by sewing raw ends together along the length (right sides together).
Now place the outer layer fabric so the seam lies in the middle
Fold one-third of the width over itself from one side.
Fold one-third from the other side.
Mark on the fold on both sides. Basically, we’re trying to mark the thirds on bottom of each side of this tube.
Once we have our marks, sew a U shaped seam (about quarter inch apart) of 6 inches starting from the bottom of this tube and going up vertically at each of the marks. I have shown the seams by the ugly black lines above. Leave some thread hanging at both ends of these seams. We will use them to gather the top layer vertically.
Making Belt Loops:
Cut 4 pieces of 4 inches from a jelly roll strip.
Fold in the in half along the width with right sides together and sew a seam along the length. The width of strip is actually too wide for the belt loops so I recommend a sewing margin of half inch for these.
Turn out and press so the seam is in the middle.
Your belt loops are ready.
Assembling the skirt:
Please read the instructions carefully here. This skirt is assembled a little differently than other skirts so make sure you follow the instructions, or you will be cursing me and reaching for your seam ripper very soon.
Place the outer layer tube inside the inner layer tube so the right side of outer layer touches the wrong side of inner layer. Make sure you keep the bottom part (where you had sewn vertical seams earlier) at the bottom. In the pic I have shown the outer layer peeking out, but that is just to show you how to place them. While sewing, the edges should be perfectly aligned.
Now insert the belt loops between the two layers. Here, be careful to place belt loops so that:
1. The raw end of the loop is at the top, lined up with the raw edges of layers. Here I have shown it sticking out a bit just to show you what I mean and also because the length I chose is a little longer than required. You can also let them hang out half an inch or so to make it easy to place them.
2. The seam should be facing the right side of outer layer.
3. Although you could the placement of loops yourself, I found it very easy to use the vertical seams in the outer layer as a guide for belt placement. It gave me perfectly spaced belt loops.
Now sew all around the edge of the skirt layers, while inserting the belt loops as you go (or just pin up everything before you sew):
This is how mine looked after sewing.
Cut the extra from the belt loops.
Sew another seam just above the other end of belt loop, so the belt loop gets sewn down and elastic casing gets prepared all at once. Leave a gap of one inch for inserting the elastic.
To make a ruffle for the outer layer, fold and cut a jelly roll strip in half along the length. Sew together two short ends (right sides together) to make a long narrow strip.
Now hem it at one long edge. I serge the edge and then fold and sew a seam, but any technique – rolled hems or folding twice would work as well. What we really want is a thin strip that is hemmed on one side, and we’ll ruffle it on the other side.
Now we will ruffle this strip by setting machine tension to highest and stitch length to longest. Note that I didn’t hem my strip before ruffling and it was a big pain to do it afterward, you don’t want to do it like me. Just hem it first.
By the way, isn’t that fabric so pretty…?
Now pull the thread of the vertical seams gently to gather the skirt vertically. Adjust with hand until you get a shape you like. Now sew a narrow zigzag seam to fix the gathers.
Now attach the ruffle you just made by sewing a seam at the raw ends (right sides together)
Use another Jelly Roll strip to make a bias tape. This is not really a bias tape since these strips are not cut on the bias, but for this project it won’t matter because we are using it on a straight fabric.
Inserting elastic in the skirt:
Remember this space you had left while sewing the waistband. Lets insert the elastic here.
Using a safety pin, insert elastic here and go all the way round and back to the opening. One rule of thumb I follow to determine elastic length is to measure the waist of the child and cut an elastic 3-inches shorter than that. You could also tie the elastic around her waist and see what length is comfortable on her.
Sew both ends of the elastic by overlapping them about half inch.
Cut a grosgrain ribbon that is long enough to be looped through the belt loops and tied into a bow in front. Cut diagonally at the ends and seal with a lighter flame, or with fray check to prevent fraying.
Size 2T Belle Layered skirt that is ready for a little one!